Tensioners done!
#1
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Well, I finished my timing chain tensioner change tonight.
Things went very well. I took me about 6 hours total, I was taking my time and did the job over the course of two weeks, when I had time. I think I could do it again in half the time. I did the zip tie method and recommend this procedure if you are only doing the secondaries.
Thanks to Bkrdoug for coming over and being a second set of hands to lift the cams and install the tensionsers.
Fired her up tonight and she sounds great. Took a short drive around the neighborhood and all seems well.
Thanks to all who posted the "how to's" and advice. One less thing to worry about.
Vector
Things went very well. I took me about 6 hours total, I was taking my time and did the job over the course of two weeks, when I had time. I think I could do it again in half the time. I did the zip tie method and recommend this procedure if you are only doing the secondaries.
Thanks to Bkrdoug for coming over and being a second set of hands to lift the cams and install the tensionsers.
Fired her up tonight and she sounds great. Took a short drive around the neighborhood and all seems well.
Thanks to all who posted the "how to's" and advice. One less thing to worry about.
Vector
#3
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Glasgow, Scotland UK
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#4
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No videos, but it's really very straightforward.
Take your time and take photos or draw diagrams to help you put everything back the way it was. The cam cover bolts have a few studs thrown in to make things interesting when you have the cover upside down on the bench.
Disconnect the battery.
Remove the coil packs, plugs and cam covers without breaking anything.
Install the zip ties.
Remove the cam bearing caps, lift the cam, install the tensioner, re-install the cam, torque everything down. 11 nM is not much torque.
Install new gasket set. This is a bit tedious, especially the seals on every bolt on the cam cover, especially the two center bolts which require three hands to install the gasket, but the bolts hold new cover gasket in place, makes it easier to install. Put a daub of sealant where the timing cover meets the head, top and bottom, front. You will see and remove the remnants of the white sealant from the factory at these locations.
Install the cover, plugs and coil packs.
Repeat on the other side.
Re-connect the battery, pull the fuel pump relays and fuel injection fuse, turn her over a couple of times, re-install the relays and fuse, say a short prayer and fire it up. Check for unusual noises or leaks. Thank God and go for a drive.
I would advise anyone doing this to read as many posts on the subject that you can. I picked up a lot of tips, like re-installing one of the lower cam bearing bolts to keep the cam from rotating downward and not removing the cooling hoses and coolant tank. Also, cutting the stud/bolt that holds the dipstick tube in place is brilliant, you don't have to try to re-install the tube in the engine!
And I put my car up on jack stands to make it easier to get to. Not so hard on the lower back that way! (I'm 6'4", lol)
I cleaned my wheels and painted my calipers while she was up in the air.
Vector
Take your time and take photos or draw diagrams to help you put everything back the way it was. The cam cover bolts have a few studs thrown in to make things interesting when you have the cover upside down on the bench.
Disconnect the battery.
Remove the coil packs, plugs and cam covers without breaking anything.
Install the zip ties.
Remove the cam bearing caps, lift the cam, install the tensioner, re-install the cam, torque everything down. 11 nM is not much torque.
Install new gasket set. This is a bit tedious, especially the seals on every bolt on the cam cover, especially the two center bolts which require three hands to install the gasket, but the bolts hold new cover gasket in place, makes it easier to install. Put a daub of sealant where the timing cover meets the head, top and bottom, front. You will see and remove the remnants of the white sealant from the factory at these locations.
Install the cover, plugs and coil packs.
Repeat on the other side.
Re-connect the battery, pull the fuel pump relays and fuel injection fuse, turn her over a couple of times, re-install the relays and fuse, say a short prayer and fire it up. Check for unusual noises or leaks. Thank God and go for a drive.
I would advise anyone doing this to read as many posts on the subject that you can. I picked up a lot of tips, like re-installing one of the lower cam bearing bolts to keep the cam from rotating downward and not removing the cooling hoses and coolant tank. Also, cutting the stud/bolt that holds the dipstick tube in place is brilliant, you don't have to try to re-install the tube in the engine!
And I put my car up on jack stands to make it easier to get to. Not so hard on the lower back that way! (I'm 6'4", lol)
I cleaned my wheels and painted my calipers while she was up in the air.
Vector
Last edited by Vector; 10-21-2011 at 09:53 PM.
#5
#6
#7
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#5 & #55 here:https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ion-faq-37415/
OP & #2 here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ics-faq-52653/
Great photos in the second thread!
I put a piece of rubber hose over the cam bolt to protect it from the cam.
My old tensioners have cracks exactly like the photos in the above thread.
Vector
OP & #2 here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ics-faq-52653/
Great photos in the second thread!
I put a piece of rubber hose over the cam bolt to protect it from the cam.
My old tensioners have cracks exactly like the photos in the above thread.
Vector
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