Hi there,

my plan is to get my chains sorted between the 11th anf 15th of January. So far, the procedure is straight forward. I've ordered the proper tools to avoid the "zip tie bodge" method and have got all new parts sitting here just waiting to be installed.

I understand how the process of removing the chains and cogs etc. is but:

1. all instructions state, to refit the cogs in the same position as they were when removed. Why? Doesn't make sense!? There are no markings on the cogs (which is why the tools are required to lock the engine) which would make the positioning important!? Is there a different reason?

2. when tensioning the chains, must the cogs on the cams already be tightend up? If tightend up, then the cams would shift as soon as the tools are released!? Or am I missing something here?

3. when the primary chains are installed, it states to tension them with a screwdriver in order to have them set correctly. On the other hand: as soon as the tensioning tool is removed, the tensioning guide will slacken and the hydraulic tensioner will take a while before it is fully set. Is it enough tension to prevent the engine for failing catastrophically?

So, my main question is, when to tighten the bolts on the cams. AFTER tensioning (removing the pins on the tensioners) or BEFORE? After makes more sense... Is that correct?

Cheers

Damien

PS: I just want to be sure I do it right. Better to ask 4x first before doing it 1x wrong.

 

The sprockets(cogs) will have wear from the chain pulling on one side of the valley in which the chain rides. Just good practice to put them back the same. Think of how a motorcycle sprocket wears.
And yes. Pull pins after all is tight.

Now this image although exaggerated from what you'll see gives the idea.

 

You have the answer for #1. Now for #2. You use the tool that fits into the cam sprocket to pull the chain slack away from the NON MOVEABLE slipper face, so that any slack is where it should be, on the movable side, which hold the tension.

I do not understand the question for #3.

As to your "main question, I don't think it mattrs when you pull the pins, except if you wait, then you will be able to see the slack from #2.

 

For Q #1, the tools don't just lock the motor, they are also used when breaking free the cam bolts so you don't break the cam. You'll also find that the crank lock isn't all that easy to put in, I used a #3 screwdriver wedged into the flywheel after locking down the cams.
Your #3 Q response is they are self adjusting (to say) tensioners, fixed, one position. They simply apply a certain amount of pressure against the back of the guide rail (which has minimal adjustments) after you release the pinning and do an initial startup. I don't understand the screwdriver setting either, its all bolts, I hope they aren't insinuating measuring with the driver? I literally did mine yesterday (others were original in my 2000 VDP S/C) and I was amazed how tight the new chains were (on both sets), I had little to no room for adjustment. I had to fight a bit to get them on they were so tight, but had a slight play once installed. I found by leaving the guides loose until the chains are on helps. Also I had to slide mine on evenly to get the crank key to align, the for the 'zip tie bodge' as you call it....it simply works because it holds the cogs in the position per the instructions until you need to change the chains or if your only doing secondary tensioners...you'll see when you break off the covers. The cam lock down bars do only just that, lock down the cams. Then the once the cogs are unbolted they can freewheel (or slip out of your hand from the oil during removal) and the zippy's hold them in position on the chain. The same applies after changing the chain to reinstall.

I haven't been able to fire mine up yet because I am waiting on a bearing for a pulley that didn't show yesterday, though I did rotate it twice completely by hand and it rolled nice.

 

When you get it all buttoned up pull the fuel pump relay and relieve the fuel pressure on the schrader valve on the fuel rail. This will allow you to use the starter to turn over the engine and build oil pressure before starting. Turn it over for a minute or two and then reinstall the fuel pump relay.

 

What is wrong with removing the fuel injector fuse up front?

 

Nothing, that's what I do.

 

[QUOTE=Daim;1374672]Hi there,

my plan is to get my chains sorted between the 11th anf 15th of January. So far, the procedure is straight forward. I've ordered the proper tools to avoid the "zip tie bodge" method and have got all new parts sitting here just waiting to be installed.

I understand how the process of removing the chains and cogs etc. is but:

1. all instructions state, to refit the cogs in the same position as they were when removed. Why? Doesn't make sense!? There are no markings on the cogs (which is why the tools are required to lock the engine) which would make the positioning important!? Is there a different reason?

2. when tensioning the chains, must the cogs on the cams already be tightend up? If tightend up, then the cams would shift as soon as the tools are released!? Or am I missing something here?

3. when the primary chains are installed, it states to tension them with a screwdriver in order to have them set correctly. On the other hand: as soon as the tensioning tool is removed, the tensioning guide will slacken and the hydraulic tensioner will take a while before it is fully set. Is it enough tension to prevent the engine for failing catastrophically?

So, my main question is, when to tighten the bolts on the cams. AFTER tensioning (removing the pins on the tensioners) or BEFORE? After makes more sense... Is that correct?

Cheers

Damien

PS: I just want to be sure I do it right. Better to ask 4x first before doing it 1x wrong.[/Q]

Just being done with this project I got answers to all of this. I also found the instructions a bit confusing so I also printed instructions for an x350. Between the two I figured it out.

#1 I think basically they don't want you to install the wrong sprockets on the wrong cams since some replace the chains too as I did and not only the tensioners.

#2&#3 here's where you are confused. The old tensioners as per instructions needed to be preloaded with wedges or a screwdriver. The reason for it is that without oil pressure these would collapse. The new primary steel tensioners actually have a ratcheting mechanism that engages once you pull the pin that prevents the tensioner from collapsing. So basically, install the cogs with secondary chains (make sure to align them so that the wrench can slide in there optimally for when you need to preload the exhaust sprocket before preloading secondary chains once you tension the primaries)and secondary tensioners. Release the secondary tensioners by pulling the pin. Than install primary chains, guides and tensioners. Release the primary tensioner. I put a little bit of load on the guide to make sure it tensions the chain and to make sure the tensioner fully engaged. Than use the wrench/tool to tension the exhaust sprocket as you tighten it. Than tighten the intake sprocket.

For the comments on fitting the crank/flywheel lock tool: The aluminum oxidizes and it's hard to fit it into the sensor hole. I cleaned it up with a wire brush and it slid right in.

 

Cheers people! I'm now a good bit more secure... I really was worried I missed something along the lines but now it is better...

I'll start tackling the job on Monday... With all these parts:



Will be doing the tranny and altenator at the same time (died about a month ago).