Throttle Body rebuild
#21
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I don't think anyone is following this but just in case...
I decided to install the new evap purge valve, new EGR valve and the rebuilt throttle body all at the same time. I also topped off the battery charge while it was disconnected.
The car fired up instantly and after a few seconds of "finding idle" it ran perfectly smooth. I let it idle for a little over 10 minutes and then went for a drive. Smooth and responsive, no codes, fun drive. Fuel trims (long term) between 0 and +5 on both banks.
End of update.
I decided to install the new evap purge valve, new EGR valve and the rebuilt throttle body all at the same time. I also topped off the battery charge while it was disconnected.
The car fired up instantly and after a few seconds of "finding idle" it ran perfectly smooth. I let it idle for a little over 10 minutes and then went for a drive. Smooth and responsive, no codes, fun drive. Fuel trims (long term) between 0 and +5 on both banks.
End of update.
#22
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Not sure what other things you have done, sounds like you're quite familiar with dealing with the "idiosyncracies" of our toys. For what it's worth, I have had the TPS code come up several times in the past. Typically a good cleaning of the throttle body with carb cleaner and a cloth have cleared it up. In these situations I can't even feel any build-up where the butterfly rests (although I can see a ring), but "scrubbing" seems to help. The last time it occurred the cleaning didn't keep the code from coming up again. I had to drive with some pressure on the pedal to keep it from coming back after I had cleared it with a code reader. I found a video on YouTube that showed how to take the slack out of the throttle cable. Once that was done the code has cleared and hasn't returned (yet).
#23
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In my limited experience I think the throttle body codes usually occur due to either a loose electrical connection or an internally corroded potentiometer. My pedal position connector to the throttle body once broke at the locking tab, I had to wire-tie it in place to prevent codes.
I have read about people drilling a small hole in the potentiometer casing and injecting some cleaner/lubricant. I just went the rebuild route.
Good luck.
I have read about people drilling a small hole in the potentiometer casing and injecting some cleaner/lubricant. I just went the rebuild route.
Good luck.
#24
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