Timing Chain Tensioners. Check Yours Before It's Too Late!
#62
I read this thread and I realize the need to check my tensioners. My VDP has 120,000 on it and I have no history on the service. I have done several things this winter but I would like to know more about the "Zip Tie Method". I searched the forms and looked on you tube could some one please point me to a how to on either site.
Thanks in advance!
David
Thanks in advance!
David
#63
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...15/#post317113
Pretty simple procedure. Remove valve covers to expose the camshafts on both sides. Use zipties through the holes in the gears at the ends of the camshafts to lock the secondary camshaft chains to the camshaft sprockets. This allows you to remove (not fully remove from the car, just move it towards the intake camshaft enough to allow the bad tensioner to be removed and the new tensioner to be installed) the exhaust camshaft while still preserving engine timing. Tighten down the exhaust camshaft (using proper torque), remove the zipties and reinstall the camshaft covers.
It actually sounds more complicated than it actually is. Once you remove the camshaft covers and actually see what has to be done, it's pretty intuitive.
Pretty simple procedure. Remove valve covers to expose the camshafts on both sides. Use zipties through the holes in the gears at the ends of the camshafts to lock the secondary camshaft chains to the camshaft sprockets. This allows you to remove (not fully remove from the car, just move it towards the intake camshaft enough to allow the bad tensioner to be removed and the new tensioner to be installed) the exhaust camshaft while still preserving engine timing. Tighten down the exhaust camshaft (using proper torque), remove the zipties and reinstall the camshaft covers.
It actually sounds more complicated than it actually is. Once you remove the camshaft covers and actually see what has to be done, it's pretty intuitive.
#65
I agree, it is very intuitive, but there are pitfalls that can be avoided by grabbing every thread on this subject (there are tons) and read each one carefully. Then pull the right valve cover and observe what is needed (if lucky, they will have been replaced already). A key piece is to try and turn the engine to the point of least tension on the lifters before loosening the cap bolts, to keep from breaking the camshaft.
On the left side, many have found difficulty removing the dipstick tube (again, lots of threads with suggestions that might apply to your case). Put a rag on the left front of the engine to preclude nuts and stuff from falling into the engine (MAKE SURE you take the rag out before you button up the engine). Take care with the cam cover seals to preclude air leaks. Go slow. As noted years ago on this forum: patience is the most important tool in your toolbox.
On the left side, many have found difficulty removing the dipstick tube (again, lots of threads with suggestions that might apply to your case). Put a rag on the left front of the engine to preclude nuts and stuff from falling into the engine (MAKE SURE you take the rag out before you button up the engine). Take care with the cam cover seals to preclude air leaks. Go slow. As noted years ago on this forum: patience is the most important tool in your toolbox.
#67
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...3/#post1513371
Check out this thread and post #20 I made list of part #'s and you can search for best price.
Check out this thread and post #20 I made list of part #'s and you can search for best price.
#69
Harmonic Balancer Problem
Hi Guys,
I don't want to hijack anyone's thread but I have a question... when removing the harmonic balancer to get to the timing chain... how to lock the engine from turning? The engine is turning freely with the balancer and the bolt is turning with it.
I am pretty far along in the process and have already removed the radiator of the car and the hood. Now I am ready to remove the harmonic balancer and remove the timing chain cover... Can I remove a valve cover and lock the chain with a screwdriver?
I don't want to hijack anyone's thread but I have a question... when removing the harmonic balancer to get to the timing chain... how to lock the engine from turning? The engine is turning freely with the balancer and the bolt is turning with it.
I am pretty far along in the process and have already removed the radiator of the car and the hood. Now I am ready to remove the harmonic balancer and remove the timing chain cover... Can I remove a valve cover and lock the chain with a screwdriver?
#71
Hi all;
I've been putting off this job for a while to do just the secondaries. 98 xk8 83000 miles. I've just started, run into the inevitable snags. I,m starting on passenger side. The cam flats do not line up. I have the bar tool to lock them down, but the question is, if they don't line up, is something wrong?. And should I use the zip-tie or remove the sprocket?
Thanx, Don
I've been putting off this job for a while to do just the secondaries. 98 xk8 83000 miles. I've just started, run into the inevitable snags. I,m starting on passenger side. The cam flats do not line up. I have the bar tool to lock them down, but the question is, if they don't line up, is something wrong?. And should I use the zip-tie or remove the sprocket?
Thanx, Don
#72
I have seen threads on here where cars with only 50k miles have cracked tensioners. Being well maintained, having a clean car fax, etc. isn't saying much. Heat and oil affects the plastic regardless of how well maintained it is.
I would make it a priority to check them and replace if they are original.
I would make it a priority to check them and replace if they are original.
Thank you
#73
Remove a valve cover (passenger side is easiest) and you can see the secondary tensioners. The original type are a dark orange plastic, the later type are metal and white/cream colored.
To view the primary tensioners you have to remove the front timing cover, or use a pencil camera. (sometimes an owner only renews the secondaries, therefore it is important to check them both)
BTW, this is the XJ8 section and you have an XK8......(although the engines are the same)
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Lendurante (09-23-2024)
#75
Remove a valve cover (passenger side is easiest) and you can see the secondary tensioners. The original type are a dark orange plastic, the later type are metal and white/cream colored.
To view the primary tensioners you have to remove the front timing cover, or use a pencil camera. (sometimes an owner only renews the secondaries, therefore it is important to check them both)
BTW, this is the XJ8 section and you have an XK8......(although the engines are the same)
#76
#77
Cool, I'll probably go ahead and order a replacement just to be on the safe side. The last thing I want is to cause a leak just from checking on something 😅
#78
You'll want to check your primaries as well. Someone could easily do the secondaries as decoration and skip the primaries.
There's a couple checks, first is chain tension, you should have zero slack in the primary chain. I had about 2mm of play in mine when I did them from the guides being broken.
Second, use a bore scope to look down in, if they are original, they will look like what CK is showing.
Here is a neat, and fairly cheap, bore-scope setup for a smartphone (there are others)...
There's a couple checks, first is chain tension, you should have zero slack in the primary chain. I had about 2mm of play in mine when I did them from the guides being broken.
Second, use a bore scope to look down in, if they are original, they will look like what CK is showing.
Here is a neat, and fairly cheap, bore-scope setup for a smartphone (there are others)...
#79
You'll want to check your primaries as well. Someone could easily do the secondaries as decoration and skip the primaries.
There's a couple checks, first is chain tension, you should have zero slack in the primary chain. I had about 2mm of play in mine when I did them from the guides being broken.
There's a couple checks, first is chain tension, you should have zero slack in the primary chain. I had about 2mm of play in mine when I did them from the guides being broken.
#80