XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 1997 - 2003

Timing Chain Tensioners. Check Yours Before It's Too Late!

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  #81  
Old 10-20-2021, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by t.eadie
How difficult would it be to change the primaries? If I need a bore to check them I'm assuming access isn't the best.
Replacing the timing chain tensioners is a relatively involved task, kits can be purchased from various sources but quality varies and this kit from Christopher's Foreign Car Parts is one favored by many on the forum.
https://christophersforeigncarparts....ing-in-one-box

Different kits are available for different years due to slight changes in design of the engines during the 1997-2003 production years.

The kits includes everything you need, 2 upper tensioners, 2 lower tensioners, 4 lower guides, plus all the gaskets and seals needed to do the job. Special tools are also needed for camshaft/crankshaft alignment. If broken tensioner parts are found during disassembly (very likely) it is recommended that the oil pan is removed for cleaning to prevent debris from damaging the engine.

Costs at repair shops are usually around $2,500-$3,000, or more, if you do the work yourself it can be done for around $500-$600. (tensioners/guides gaskets, oil, anti-freeze, special tools). It is recommended that the thermostat and water-pump are replaced at the same time, an additional $100+
 
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  #82  
Old 10-20-2021, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Carnival Kid
Costs at repair shops are usually around $2,500-$3,000, or more, if you do the work yourself it can be done for around $500-$600. (tensioners/guides gaskets, oil, anti-freeze, special tools). It is recommended that the thermostat and water-pump are replaced at the same time, an additional $100+
Dang, those labor costs really add up. I'll definitely look into doing this myself. Thanks everyone for your input!
 
  #83  
Old 10-20-2021, 11:50 AM
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We have this nifty section called the "How To" at the top of this forum. There are plenty of posts on almost the whole car, to include this well detailed one from Black Onyx... Tmingi chain and tensioner replacement
 
  #84  
Old 10-27-2021, 04:37 PM
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[QUOTE=xjrjag;1297759]The method I used was the "zip tie method". There is absolutely no point to use the lock down tools and take the sprocket off and all that. Just make sure the chain is cinched TIGHT against the sprocket. Use TWO holes on the sprocket to run zip ties through...NOT just one. Make sure all the valves on the exhaust side are closed. Remove cam caps and cam. East stuff. Make sure the cam is centered before reinstalling cam caps. Before torquing them down, make sure it is able to move freely, as you dont want to snap your camshaft once you start the car.

Another little tip....dont waste the time to remove the dipstick tube. Just bend it out if the way a little bit. Absolutely no reason to remove it. I was able to bend it back to the original position after the job was finished.

On a 1 - 10 scale, I would rate this job as a 4. Its not HARD, just takes time and patience.[/QUOTE

Can I use this shortcut process for removing my LH cyl head for a valve job? I thght I had to remove crank bolt and go through other fun parts of the process and required using the lockdown timing tools. I have a burnt or bent valve in my cylinder #7, engine supposedly had 55K miles when I bought it from LKQ before local garage installed eng wo putting it through any health checks.

 
  #85  
Old 10-27-2021, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Vinsanity

Can I use this shortcut process for removing my LH cyl head for a valve job? I thght I had to remove crank bolt and go through other fun parts of the process and required using the lockdown timing tools. I have a burnt or bent valve in my cylinder #7, engine supposedly had 55K miles when I bought it from LKQ before local garage installed eng wo putting it through any health checks.
no



 
  #86  
Old 10-27-2021, 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Vinsanity
The method I used was the "zip tie method". There is absolutely no point to use the lock down tools and take the sprocket off and all that. Just make sure the chain is cinched TIGHT against the sprocket. Use TWO holes on the sprocket to run zip ties through...NOT just one. Make sure all the valves on the exhaust side are closed. Remove cam caps and cam. East stuff. Make sure the cam is centered before reinstalling cam caps. Before torquing them down, make sure it is able to move freely, as you dont want to snap your camshaft once you start the car.
Did you only swap the secondary tensioners or did you do the primaries and/or guides too?
 
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