Hey everyone, finally got that stupid crank pulley bolt off! The chain strap wrench did the trick. So i started digging into her, and now have a few questions, naturally lol. I made a video, it is easier to show you what I'm talking about than explain it, mainly because I do not know what parts I'm talking about . Let me know what you all think. I could really use the advice. Thanks in advance!

Timing System Jaguar V8 - YouTube

 

A few things Scott, the engine is set and locked at 45 deg after t.d.c.

The vvt is hydraulic, so once the chain guides are fitted along with the tensioners (primary) you should see most of the slack go out of the system.

The crank sprockets are set so the teeth are out of alignment, teeth on one sprocket match the valleys on the other, if you know what I mean.

I'll try an dig out a Jaguar World document that should help finish it up.

Once you get the guides in, there's a step that tensions the chains with thin screwdrivers.

 

Thanks for the advice Sean! I've been reading through the black onyx manual over and over again to make sure I'm not missing something. I think I might be missing something . I'm assuming the whole reason to remove the VVT sprocket (I did not do this to mine as I was able to just slip the primary chain on) is to use the tensioning tool to remove slack from a certain side of the chain (outer most part of the chain on the left bank and inner most part of the chain on the right bank. Am I correct to assume this? At least that is what I'm taking away from the manual. I'll stare at the front end of my Jag for awhile until I figure it out I guess. I think what baffles me the most is that it should already be set properly because the VVT sprockets haven't moved...

 

Scott:
I certainly suggest you re-read the intruction and follow it to the letter, but let mw TRY and explain the WHY instead of ther how/ You are doing two things. one is to have the tight side of the chain on the side that pulls the cams from the crank. So , youR statement about the outer vs inner is correct, because the crank turns clockwise. The chain path on the tight side as it pulls sets the position, -it is the constant relationsship, the slack side is just "whats left" and is taken up by the tensioneer.

Then, (and my experience is mostly with XJR which have no VVT) you need to set the VVT to maxiomum unwound posiition as you tighten the sprocket to cam bolts. In other words, the VVT has the intake cam on the retarded position until tit gets oil pressure, which rotates the cam towards advance (CCW) position relative to the VVT primary chain. I admit I am a little hazy on my memory of exactly how to do that, But the "official step by step is as follows for bank 2.

1.Install the chain tensioning tool 303-532 to the exhaust camshaft sprocket, Bank 2. Reposition the sprocket (and the VVT unit) for the most advantageous position for use of the tool. Remove the tool
2.Install the primary timing chain, Bank 2. Install the primary chain over the crankshaft sprocket and the VVT unit sprocket. There must be no slack on the drive side of the primary chain and the VVT unit must not be rotated on the camshaft (or the tensioning tool may not fit). Slide the VVT and exhaust sprocket fully rearwards onto the respective camshafts
3.Install the primary chain tensioner blade. Position the tensioner blade to the cylinder block. Install the retaining / pivot bolt and tighten it to 12 - 16 Nm .
4.Install the primary chain tensioner assembly. Use a wedge 303-533 (or two if required) between the primary chain tensioner and tensioner blade, to take up the slack in the chain.
5.Tighten the exhaust camshaft sprocket securing bolt. Install the chain tensioner tool 303-532 to the sprocket holes. Apply force to the tool in an anti-clockwise direction to tension the chain on its drive side. Whilst applying the opposing force to the sprocket and chain, tighten the sprocket securing bolt to 115 - 125 Nm .

Good luck- you might get yours on the road before I get mine!

 

Hey Ross! Thanks for the break down. So I think I've got it, the whole reason to remove the sprockets is to pull the tension out of the primary and secondary chains. I should apply tension to the guides using the wedges for the primary chain to keep it tight when tightening down the vvt sprocket so there is no slack on the drive side of the chain. Then I will need to remove the slack from the secondary chain by using the tensioner tool. I'm going to give it a whirl in a little bit.

As for the "winding down" of the VVT. I started to play with the VVT unit, when I advance the timing it will almost immidiatley kick back to its old position which I am assuming is the position it should be at for my purposes. It almost feels like it is spring loaded. I don't see any other way to "wind" it down.

 

I think its done... I THINK! lol I removed the VVT and Exhaust sprockets like the manual said (even cleaned my VVT balancing weights to make them shine again ), then installed the new secondary tensioners (torqued them to spec), installed the new chains, then the guides. I then removed the slack on the drive side of the chain and installed the primary tensioners. I fit the wedge tools and torqued the exhaust sprocket down while applying opposite force on the tensioner tool to remove slack on the drive side, then did the same for the VVT sprocket to 115nm. The next step is to remove the tensioner pins and camshaft locking tools, and then its time to button her up! I think... I read the manual over and over again, and I don't think I'm missing anything. Let me know though, I'm very skiddish about this because it requires precision. Thanks in advance!

I was starting to think about the VVT on the AJ26 a little. I can see no indication of it being controlled hydraulically. When looking through the bolt hole I could see some springs, which might explain why it snaps back after having been advanced. IF this is true, at a certain RPM the VVT unit would have enough torque put on it by the crank sprocket to overcome the force the spring is putting out and advance the intake timing... The ones on the AJ27 need to be wound down and are hydraulic according to other members. This is my theory on the AJ26 VVT. Any thoughts? I haven't actually taken it apart so I could be totally wrong.

 

Look at te solenoid. It is the thing on the bush that has wires on it, That turns the oil on to the VVT, In the AJ26, there is no proprtional control. It i seithe rhome or advanced.

 

This was GREAT! I like hearing the "why" rather than just step by step like inthe book.
One point I want to make to those who don't want to deal with the primary chain. Chains stretch with use. this is the main reason for tensioners. As they stretch the distance between links increases and the cam timing retards. This causes loss of performance. Worn chains also flop around more than nice tight new ones and they're only $60 bucks apiece!
BTW the best price i've found for the whole kit is $573 from www.terrysjag.com.