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No, it is seen from the outside, just above one of the sump corners (light brown ring on the pic). I f you don't have any oil leak in the area, leave it alone.
Is that whats shown in this video at the 34sec mark?
The video sows the procedure of removal and replacement of the internal "Conductor Plate", in the case a fault in it (its sensors) is diagnosed. You don't need to do any of that for the time being (unless a fault in your Conductor Plate is positively established) - just inspect the area around the connector for any signs of oil leak. If you have an oil leak, you still do not need to remove the sump - just get a new connector (genuine MB) and replace it from outside
The connector (picture above) -- is just that. It's where the harness from the car connects to the transmission. They can leak -- obviously not good. The leaking fluid can cause electrical issues .. so any fluid wetness around the outside of the transmission needs to be looked into. As above -- don't touch if not leaking. If leaking -- clean outside well -- replace and check fluid.
The conductor plate is inside the transmission -- the connector pictured above plugs into that part. The plate hols all the electrical connections inside the transmission. Typically with no leaks / low miles / intermittent strangeness ... the conductor plate gets replaced. You do the connector as well -- new filter/ fluid and pan gasket
Both of my R's have the original fluid -- no leaks .. tube never opened.
The video sows the procedure of removal and replacement of the internal "Conductor Plate", in the case a fault in it (its sensors) is diagnosed. You don't need to do any of that for the time being (unless a fault in your Conductor Plate is positively established) - just inspect the area around the connector for any signs of oil leak. If you have an oil leak, you still do not need to remove the sump - just get a new connector (genuine MB) and replace it from outside
What is the procedure to diagnose a fault in the conductor plate?
Originally Posted by yeldogt
The connector (picture above) -- is just that. It's where the harness from the car connects to the transmission. They can leak -- obviously not good. The leaking fluid can cause electrical issues .. so any fluid wetness around the outside of the transmission needs to be looked into. As above -- don't touch if not leaking. If leaking -- clean outside well -- replace and check fluid.
The conductor plate is inside the transmission -- the connector pictured above plugs into that part. The plate hols all the electrical connections inside the transmission. Typically with no leaks / low miles / intermittent strangeness ... the conductor plate gets replaced. You do the connector as well -- new filter/ fluid and pan gasket
Both of my R's have the original fluid -- no leaks .. tube never opened.
I don't think mine is leaking, I tried to snap a picture of it tonight, but its not in a spot that is easy to get a camera to. The plug is dirty but it just looks like road grime to me, or it could be its leaking but it all gets burned away being so close to the downpipe, who knows, will have to get it driving first and see.
But I think I still want to do the fluid flush and filter chance, I'm not a fan of lifetime fluids and filters, I just don't see them as a good idea and I'd rather have a serviceable part and a regular change interval.
My problem with that listing -- they are calling it Genuine MB. Maybe it's an OEM imported part -- in the USA it would be in a MB box. I would want a bit more info from the seller -- especially at his price.
To the OP .. check to make sure you don't have battery or other low volt conditions. If so .... fix that first. If you find that's your problem -- you have fixed the car. I would inspect the transmission again. The connector should be dry dirt -- if not you need to verify why it's wet.
Doing a proper service is not going to hurt anything -- but many times people don't preform it correctly. The lack of a dipstick etc. Also -- the original fluid is NLA from MB .... superseded / new number
The dog has a good point, you'll need to get one of those Merc tranny dipsticks as well if you plan on tackling this. It's the only way you can be sure you've got the fluid level right after (or before) you do what ever work you decide to do.
They're pretty easy to find on ebay as well, search on the 722.6 trans.
The one I found works well but I was surprised to find out that you just push it in until it stops (when the lower end hits a restriction). I'm used to dipsticks that stop against a feature at the top.
The dog has a good point, you'll need to get one of those Merc tranny dipsticks as well if you plan on tackling this. It's the only way you can be sure you've got the fluid level right after (or before) you do what ever work you decide to do.
They're pretty easy to find on ebay as well, search on the 722.6 trans.
The one I found works well but I was surprised to find out that you just push it in until it stops (when the lower end hits a restriction). I'm used to dipsticks that stop against a feature at the top.
Even with the "dipstick" it's still a process to assure correct level. Had trouble with my W210 wagon. Making sure it's bottomed out -- correct temps etc.
Lots of these transmission were damaged by good intentions .... it was one of the reason they made it difficult for casual maintenance.
The one I found works well but I was surprised to find out that you just push it in until it stops (when the lower end hits a restriction). I'm used to dipsticks that stop against a feature at the top.
The dipstick is inserted until it hits the bottom of the sump. You can then put a mark on it which corresponds to top edge of the dipstick tube. Otherwise, it has two marks for the fluid level - one if measured at 25C fluid temp and another one if measured at 80C fluid temp (interpolate for temps between 25C and 80C). The two marks are spaced at 45 mm so knowing the fluid temp at the time of level check is quite important. I normally do it immediately after starting a cold engine, taking the ambient temperature and adding some 5C to allow for some fluid warm up during the level check.
The dog has a good point, you'll need to get one of those Merc tranny dipsticks as well if you plan on tackling this. It's the only way you can be sure you've got the fluid level right after (or before) you do what ever work you decide to do.
They're pretty easy to find on ebay as well, search on the 722.6 trans.
The one I found works well but I was surprised to find out that you just push it in until it stops (when the lower end hits a restriction). I'm used to dipsticks that stop against a feature at the top.
I've already got a kit that includes a filter, dipstick locking filler cap and pan gasket. I was just looking at the kit and it also included a connector which I don't remember from when I ordered it. I've also got something like a dozen quarts of the fluid.
Originally Posted by yeldogt
This was my MB reference ,,,, there are many people selling the dipsticks. be careful of the cheap ones .. have been known to snap off.
Thanks I'll compare that to the dipstick i've got. Min looks different to that one, so I don't think its MB OEM.
07-31-2019, 11:59 PM
