Transmission Service
#2
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I have not done it, and I have not used this kit, but this is the route that I would take:
Jaguar XJR/XKR Transmission Service Kit (5-speed Auto)
dipstick rental
Transmission Dipstick Tool Rental (5-speed S/C)
this would not be a "flush and fill", you would just drop the pan and get what you could get out
buckhead imports might be able to pump trans fluid through the trans to get more of the old fluid out and theoretically get a more effective service, it would not be worth the extra money to me
Jaguar XJR/XKR Transmission Service Kit (5-speed Auto)
dipstick rental
Transmission Dipstick Tool Rental (5-speed S/C)
this would not be a "flush and fill", you would just drop the pan and get what you could get out
buckhead imports might be able to pump trans fluid through the trans to get more of the old fluid out and theoretically get a more effective service, it would not be worth the extra money to me
Last edited by JaguarXJR02; 11-05-2011 at 12:04 PM. Reason: added information
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squish (11-05-2011)
#3
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heres a link from a post .https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ter-r-i-61563/ It will have the transmission section of the service manual on there. Shouldnt be hard, doin it myself soon. Just bought the metric allen wrenches that i need. as far as filling it it im using a funnel and a long tube. good luck
#4
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I used a choke cable outer sheath for a dipstick. Mine was 3.5 inches deep from the bottom of the pan, warm and idling in Park.
Ryder Fleet products has the correct Shell fluid for about $5 a quart. 3 changes cost me about $60.
Vector
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squish (11-06-2011)
#5
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Maybe one of the Jaguar mechanics can chime in on the factory recommended procedure -- reading over the download it has you adding almost 7L of fluid. I don't remember anyone getting more than 4L with a simple drain and 5L with the filter.
The new MB fluid is backward compatible per MB ....... but people have reported problems using it in high mile vehicles. The new fluid is thinner. I personally would use the old specification fluid -- you can get it from Autohauz or other online venders.
The new MB fluid is backward compatible per MB ....... but people have reported problems using it in high mile vehicles. The new fluid is thinner. I personally would use the old specification fluid -- you can get it from Autohauz or other online venders.
#7
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On the "R", it's no more difficult or different than a GM Turbo Hydramatic. Actually, it's a bit easier because there are only 6 fasteners for the pan. The only difficulty is the numb nuts deleted the dipstick so one has to be acquired or made.
-- drain, drop pan, replace filter, clean pan, reinstall pan, fill to proper level with ATF meeting spec.
And there is no way that the filter can hold anywhere near 1 liter.
The top fitting on the tranny cooler is the return to the transmission and can be used to do a "power dump" of the old fluid. A standard NPT hose barb can be used if it is threaded in *loosely* to avoid damage to the unknown thread. Using this method, have 10+ liters on hand to finish the job. Oh, and for anyone who is going to do this: you need a hose on the end of that barb, and you need to secure the other end in your bucket. The hose *will* try to jump out of the bucket and spray all over the place.
-- drain, drop pan, replace filter, clean pan, reinstall pan, fill to proper level with ATF meeting spec.
And there is no way that the filter can hold anywhere near 1 liter.
The top fitting on the tranny cooler is the return to the transmission and can be used to do a "power dump" of the old fluid. A standard NPT hose barb can be used if it is threaded in *loosely* to avoid damage to the unknown thread. Using this method, have 10+ liters on hand to finish the job. Oh, and for anyone who is going to do this: you need a hose on the end of that barb, and you need to secure the other end in your bucket. The hose *will* try to jump out of the bucket and spray all over the place.
Last edited by plums; 11-06-2011 at 04:49 PM.
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squish (11-06-2011)
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#8
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Two questions: how does one safely remove the protective cap on the dipstick tube and what would the exact dipstick length be from the top of tube if I wanted to use, say, a .105 gauge stainless steel bass guitar string to measure fluid level? (Vector, gotcha on the 3.5" full mark) Or is the length obvious when inserting something, as it would clearly tap the bottom?
#9
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You have to break the top off the red retainer for the cap on the dipstick tube, then push the remainder of the retainer down with a small screwdriver to release the cap. I re-used the retainer. Bottom of the pan would be obvious. When you are done, put that oily string back on your bass, lol. Don't want it to sound too bright!
Vector
(Fellow bass player)
Vector
(Fellow bass player)
Last edited by Vector; 11-06-2011 at 03:00 PM.
#10
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The Jaguar instructions I am referring to are for the MB unit --- go to the other thread and take a look.
The replacement diptube cap and lock is very cheap -- you want to make sure it is replaced .......so the tube is tightly closed.
A simple change gets you about 4L -- when you drop the pan you get a little more and with the filter down a bit more comes out ..... so you need the 5th L when you drop the pan. Make sure you get the OE (MB) filter -- it is not expensive and fits.
The fluid level is important for this transmission - it must be correct.
The replacement diptube cap and lock is very cheap -- you want to make sure it is replaced .......so the tube is tightly closed.
A simple change gets you about 4L -- when you drop the pan you get a little more and with the filter down a bit more comes out ..... so you need the 5th L when you drop the pan. Make sure you get the OE (MB) filter -- it is not expensive and fits.
The fluid level is important for this transmission - it must be correct.
#11
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