urgent help please.
#1
#2
Join Date: Feb 2013
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That's almost assuredly your MAF. You can try cleaning it with a MAF only cleaner, but you probably need to replace it. If you unplug the MAF, it will go into a default limp mode and allow you to drive it. Though your performance will seem like you have a 4 cylinder, it will drive. Be sure to clear the codes when you complete either cleaning and/or replacement of the MAF.
Also, if you could please provide us with your model and location in your signature, that would be helpful...TY.
Also, if you could please provide us with your model and location in your signature, that would be helpful...TY.
#3
That's almost assuredly your MAF. You can try cleaning it with a MAF only cleaner, but you probably need to replace it. If you unplug the MAF, it will go into a default limp mode and allow you to drive it. Though your performance will seem like you have a 4 cylinder, it will drive. Be sure to clear the codes when you complete either cleaning and/or replacement of the MAF.
Also, if you could please provide us with your model and location in your signature, that would be helpful...TY.
Also, if you could please provide us with your model and location in your signature, that would be helpful...TY.
what if the fuel pump is gone does it show on the obd scanner?
I drive 2002 xj8
#4
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Then yes, +1 on a possible fuel pump, check the fuse first. If you have a fuel pressure gauge, then test the rail after that. Sometimes it doesn't throw a code, though it should. Clear all the codes before trying to restart it.
Other things more relative to check quickly, cleanliness of the air filter, cam cover breather tube clarity. Its not as easy to check, but the CPS (crank positioning sensor) could be dirty or gone south.
Other things more relative to check quickly, cleanliness of the air filter, cam cover breather tube clarity. Its not as easy to check, but the CPS (crank positioning sensor) could be dirty or gone south.
#6
Then yes, +1 on a possible fuel pump, check the fuse first. If you have a fuel pressure gauge, then test the rail after that. Sometimes it doesn't throw a code, though it should. Clear all the codes before trying to restart it.
Other things more relative to check quickly, cleanliness of the air filter, cam cover breather tube clarity. Its not as easy to check, but the CPS (crank positioning sensor) could be dirty or gone south.
Other things more relative to check quickly, cleanliness of the air filter, cam cover breather tube clarity. Its not as easy to check, but the CPS (crank positioning sensor) could be dirty or gone south.
#7
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In my signature is a link (How To) for the top of this forum about fuel pump repair and/or replacement. I'm not for rebuilding them, but that all depends on your position.
For fuse location (yes its in the trunk) I can't turn down the detail drawing by member Lady P made awhile back in this thread for the fuse and relay... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-pumps-198449/
For fuse location (yes its in the trunk) I can't turn down the detail drawing by member Lady P made awhile back in this thread for the fuse and relay... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-pumps-198449/
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#8
In my signature is a link (How To) for the top of this forum about fuel pump repair and/or replacement. I'm not for rebuilding them, but that all depends on your position.
For fuse location (yes its in the trunk) I can't turn down the detail drawing by member Lady P made awhile back in this thread for the fuse and relay... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-pumps-198449/
For fuse location (yes its in the trunk) I can't turn down the detail drawing by member Lady P made awhile back in this thread for the fuse and relay... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-pumps-198449/
and do you think using high quality obd scanner may show the exact problem? I used cheap Bluetooth obd scanner only show the maf code then cleaned it but nothing happened
#9
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Actually the line removal is quite simple, you use a fuel line disconnect tool. Its getting under the car and dealing with the crud that sucks. Then disconnecting all the lines to slide the tank forward ...and that depends on how much fuel is in it. You tend to only hear about the horror stories of the lines because people don't post when they come out like they should.
I use an ELM327 (which is cheap) with the Torque app. No matter how $$$ the scanner, if the ECU doesn't throw a code, you don't know.
I use an ELM327 (which is cheap) with the Torque app. No matter how $$$ the scanner, if the ECU doesn't throw a code, you don't know.
#10
Actually the line removal is quite simple, you use a fuel line disconnect tool. Its getting under the car and dealing with the crud that sucks. Then disconnecting all the lines to slide the tank forward ...and that depends on how much fuel is in it. You tend to only hear about the horror stories of the lines because people don't post when they come out like they should.
I use an ELM327 (which is cheap) with the Torque app. No matter how $$$ the scanner, if the ECU doesn't throw a code, you don't know.
I use an ELM327 (which is cheap) with the Torque app. No matter how $$$ the scanner, if the ECU doesn't throw a code, you don't know.
I thought using branded obd scanner may make difference.
thanks for the help.
I will update the process later .
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