Ran one on my 02 xjr today. Not sure if I did it correct.
My car has a Mina Gallery intake tube. I disconnected the vacuum line that connects to the pipe and valve cover. Plugged that line. And put the smoke into the intake pipe.

Did I do that right? Or should I have put the smoke into a different area?

 

That should work. Any line will work. Some just take long to show the leak due to the distance from the smoke inlet and the crap that is between the smoke inlet place and the leak. I used several different places. The pcv inlet on the tube from air cleaner to TB, the pcv valve tube at the pcv valve and the brake booster vacuum line all work well

 

Thank you! Had the smoke going 5-10 minutes. Nothing showed up. Just smoke from the intake box, which I believe is normal.

 

Are you throwing lean codes? Or why did you run the test? I had lean codes on my STR and struggled to fix it. Replaced a lot of o rings and stuff. When I first ran the smoke test I saw some leaks and fixed them then the codes came back. Another smoke test showed smaller leaks As I fixed them I declared success only to get more codes a few weeks later. The leaks got smaller and smaller and the smoke test showed no leaks so I thought but the reality was that the leaks were so tiny you really had to look hard to find them. They were just whispers of smoke that you had to fight to see. Knock on wood ive been code free for several months now

 

also the TB gasket. I got one from the dealer by the VIN and my mechanic told me it was WRONG.

the one I got from the dealer is like a piece of fiber cloth but my guy told me it was too small in diameter and he got the correct one for me in hard mater/not sure it was metal.

no more code and restricted performances

 

Thanks for the responses guys! No lean codes, or any codes. But, the car's AFR's go lean anytime it is in boost. New pumps and fuel filter. Just trying to get to the bottom of it.

 

Geez, Brandon; you've been trying to figure that out ever since you got the MAF problem solved. I might be in the area on a road trip towards the end of June, depending on how the plan works out; main destination is Wimberley, but my son lives in Justin and I don't know yet if I'll be stopping by there on my way to/from the Austin area. If I'm there, I'll come over to the Dallas area and you can hook up your AFR reader to mine and we'll see what happens. Where in Dallas are you?

 

That'd be great if you have the time! I live in oak cliff. More specifically, in kessler park.

I did buy a fuel pressure gauge with a long hose. That way, I can see if it loses pressure while driving.

 

Great !!! Oak Cliff is a much shorter drive from Justin than Plano or McKinney; had friends out in those areas the last time I was living in the Metroplex and that was before they built all of those high-speed tollways. I'll PM you when I get the plan figured out.

Saw your post in the other thread with the fuel pressure gauge taped to the windshield; Ingenious !!! And, the fuel pressure looked good. So, what's next? Besides me dropping by and seeing what mine does at WOT.
That rattle that I've mentioned in the other threads is still there. I've come to the conclusion that Mr. Stovanivic was correct that it's detonation. I added some octane boost to a couple of fill-ups and it dramatically reduced the pinging. Then I did a fill-up without octane boost and the pinging was back to 'normal.' So, a good clue as to what's been going on.

But wait, there's more!!! Yesterday afternoon after a Dentist appointment, I stopped by the closest gas station which I had not been to before. They had 100 octane gas! It was $7/gallon, so I put in $50 worth just to see what happens. I had probably 1/4 to 1/3 fuel in the tank, so I don't know what the actual octane is with the mix, and the car was already warmed up, so I'm going to go for a spin in a little while and see what sounds I get.

 

you probably have a bad knock sensor. Pull your plugs on both side and look for spots on the white insulator under the center electrode. The spots are pieces of your pistons that were blasted off during detonation and redeposited on your plug. That will tell you which knock sensor isnt working. When replacing knock sensors torque to the required torque spec or it wont send the correct signal to kill the detonation

 

I think it's definitely a bad KS. Another clue is that the rattle started around the time that I replaced both KS's; I don't remember if it was before or after the replacement (that was a few years ago), but I was getting a KS code so I did both. Bummer that I didn't corelate those two clues into it being a POS new KS. AND, I had the engine down to the heads a few months ago. The whole valley was cleaned up and the KS's were torqued to the spec; without looking it up, I think that was 22NM (?). So, I'm going to order another pair of KS's and get the 'genuine' part this time instead of the Eurospare or whatever aftermarket ones I got the last time. The good news is that I think I can do the R&R of the KS's without having to bust open the cooling system. I saw in another thread that with the SC pulley off, the SC can move back from under the crossover pipe then lift out. I found a really good SC pulley remover/installer when I was doing the work a few months ago, so I can have that off in short order.