Wow, really? I'm going to guess then and say you've not run soft composite tires before, like Michelin Pilot Sports?

 

[QUOTE=vdpnyc;1504736]What's a subframe mount? Where is it and what does it do?

The subframe mount up front is used to connect your engine carriage frame to the unibody part of the car.

 

The other Subframe mount in the front is the "Vee Mount" that's part # 4 in the one diagram. If you pull the front wheels, they're right in the center of the wheelwell archway. They're doing basically what they say - they're in integral part of what mounts the entire subframe suspension assembly to the frame of the car. They aren't the ONLY point of contact, but the major one. The rears are a different design, but if you're replacing all the other components, they should be replaced as well. Especially the fronts, they are a pain enough to do that it's easier to do when everything else is off as well.

And on a side note, you might want to think about replacing your motor mounts if you have any doubts. I say this because the passenger side can be done without too much trouble, but the driver's side requires dropping the subframe down, from what I remember, which you will already be in the middle of. Or the shop, whoever. But rather than do the suspension and then have to turn around in a year and have to do it all over again just for the mount, it might be worth looking at. Worst case, I would say get the mounts and have them on hand just in case they turn out bad during the process, and if they aren't bad and you feel like saving a few bucks, just return them.

 

I think that's what's on the rear of the car now, the m/s version that was z rated or similar

 

If you do have the Pilot Sports, you'll get between 9k-10k max out of them. I managed 9400 on mine and took them down to the skin. They collapsed when taken off the rim.
You'll definitely notice any alignment issues with these type tires. But they will hang like riding on tracks in corners, ...loved them. I switched to the Goodyear Eagle II with a bit harder compound and mileage warranty of 55k. It's also a little softer on the wallet. Definitely notice a performance drop off to.

 

Just looked, they are on the front - Michelin Pilot Sport A/S ultra-high performance all-season tire after just 20k miles on x308 VDP 225/60r16 and the threads are visible on both inside and outside edges, the swirly-shaped rubber between the center-line and outer-edge peeled off in strips - the durability of these tires is terrible, but they drive quite well even now while basically bald.

On the rear I have Yokohama Advan Sport A/S W-rated that are only about 2-3k miles newer and the tread is almost like a brand new tire, with perfectly even wear.



Michelin Sport A/S ultra-high performance all-season tire after just 20k miles on x308 VDP 225/60r16

 

Okay the labor cost has me sticker-shocked, so the mechanic is currently swapping only the following parts:

Shock Mount, front upper, right
Shock Mount, front upper, left
x2 ball joints
x2 Sway Bar Link
x2 Tie Rod End, outer
x2 shock absorber


The mechanic showed me that all the bushings and the lower shock mount seem to be fine without having any play and suggested not replacing them (at a $ savings to me in labor cost), so the following are remaining original parts:

x2 Shock Mount, front lower
x2 Sway Bar Bushing
x4 Control Arm Bushing, upper
x4 Control Arm Bushing, lower

Is not replacing them now a mistake? If they appear to be fine when wedging in a crowbar, does that mean they are working to spec? What would be the symptoms of the bushings or lower shock mount having failed?

 

What kind of cost has he quoted you on labor? The shocks and their mounts should be a walk in the park. The only major issues would be the control arm bushings. The lower mount I don't think I've heard issues with, and since the shock will have the new bushing pre-pressed in, you're probably fine for now with what the plan is. It should be pretty obvious afterwards if there's still any issues, within a mile of driving. And for as easy as it is to remove the shocks, there's no reason to avoid trying your plan first and then going back if needed. It isn't like it's going to add hours of labor to do it.

 

I just swapped out my Pilot Sport A/S tires, at 40K miles. They weren't worn out either, but the tramlining was getting bad. There was visible tread all the way across, slightly more worn at the edges. Could have gone for another 10-20K but again they were tramlining something wicked.

If you are getting wear like in the above picture, it isn't the tires. It's either the driver, or the suspension/steering.

Note that Pilot Sport, and Pilot Sport A/S, are very different beasties.

 

The shocks come with lower bushings installed. Why would you remove those and put the old ones back in?

 

I was going under the assumption that they were referring to the cast #17 in the diagram (which I can't imagine ever needing changing) since they listed the bushings separately. Perhaps just unsure of what was actually there, maybe the mechanic thought there was an actual mount in addition?

 

I didn't have the A/S's, I had the S/S's which are now high performance SP's, the same ones they use at the Daytona 24 hr and LeMans. Super soft compound, you can take you finger nail and make a mark in it.

 

Labor was $380, would have been 500+ with the suspension arm bushings

 

Which looks like about 2 hours per side, which is pretty reasonable.

 

Lol, the lower shock mount, not the Bushing built into the shock.

 

Mine never tramlined noticeably, even worn like they are.

Likely the suspension wore then prematurely - 140k miles with all original rubber parts. Rear tires are doing well, so not worn from my driving, lol

 

That mount itself is, from what I remember looking at, a very robust piece of goodness, and shouldn't need to be replaced just because it has the name "mount" in it. Unless it's physically damaged to where it won't allow the bushing to sit properly, I would imagine it would be plenty fine.