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Going through all the models, I should have probably ended up with the exact same design.
How does the wood color and structure match up with the VDP veneer?
You know, I was concerned about the same thing, I thought it may be a little too dark to blend in with the light VDP interior, the original gear shift knob is a much lighter wood coloring, but I was pleasantly surprised just how well the new gear knob looks, it actually blends better than the original, which I think was always a little too light in color. The new one blends better with the darker ranges of the wood interior and compliments it really well.
That gear knob is really nice, and it does match the wood better. One thing I like about the XJ is that no two cars are identical because each car has a different veneer because it is REAL wood and not plastic.
Well yesterday it was Jessie Jag to the rescue as she was pulled out of hibernation for an emergency response! My brother was getting married yesterday and the wedding was at 2pm at a church 30 minutes away from my house. Running slightly later than I'd like, I went out and got in my biffabout fiesta where I discovered that the tyre was flat. I quickly tore the cover off Jessie and ran in for her keys. She fired up and off we went, but the tank was empty so I had to do a Grand Prix style pit stop for some petrol. Then we were off, with just 20 minutes on the clock to make the service. I've never driven this car like I drove yesterday, but she worked hard. We flew along the motorway sections at 100+ and when I got onto the country roads, I engaged sport mode and went for it.
She handled like a dream, the suspension working hard to keep me in line whilst I kissed the apexes on the bends. The little 3.2 V8 was doing the business and we flew along the roads, using the J gate to keep the revs high and the power on tap. I made it to the church at 1:59, scaring the s**t out the chauffeur of the bridal car as I dramatically pulled up outside the church.
Had four tires put on (245/45/18s so they're a touch off on the speedo but they're only temporary until springtime) as the left front blew out, and the right front had belts showing on the inside. I had been checking tread depth but neglected to check wear on the inside. I'm sure the dead shocks didn't help. And when I say dead, those KYBs were TOAST after only a little over a year. Zero compression in those things. But I think that they, coupled with my off-road excursion, put a bit of a strain on the wheel bearings that I just replaced within the last year, so that might get a re-do. Also need to do something with the rear axles soon. So I'm compiling quite the list of things to do, and to start researching.
Wear on the inside would point to too much toe out, I assume a wheel alignamet was carried out when the new tyres went on?
Nope, at the time the last set was installed, I knew the bearings were on their way out and didn't want to have to do it more than once. It's on the to-do list after I get the rest of the suspension tightened up this spring, and another NEW set of tires (these are used ones that just need to get me through the snow until then).
These ones, I'm fully prepared to write-off over the next the couple months lol
Replacing my belt pulley & tensioner. Was surprised @ the range in prices(from $9-$70+?!) w/ these. I decided to go w/ the cheaper unit @ $9.75 a piece. They arrived today & I must say they are heavy steel units that surely pass the eye test. We shall see how they do in action.
I like it when my garage desk becomes riddled w/ car parts lol. Belt,pulleys,JLM11965 bulbs for the AC display & while the shifter console's out I'm going to get the cruise control & sport mode button lights replaced as well.
Replacing my belt pulley & tensioner. Was surprised @ the range in prices(from $9-$70+?!) w/ these. I decided to go w/ the cheaper unit @ $9.75 a piece. They arrived today & I must say they are heavy steel units that surely pass the eye test. We shall see how they do in action.
Next time just buy the bearing you might save a few more $$$$, not being facetious but that’s generally all that wears out on the idler. After all the bearing is just a 6203 standard double shield.
Yeah, it is easier. If you have plastic pulleys, you can change the bearing as well, just just need to do it carefully. They are the same 6203.2RSR bearings as in the steel pulleys. Though the steel ones are the better ones.
Next time just buy the bearing you might save a few more $$$$, not being facetious but that’s generally all that wears out on the idler. After all the bearing is just a 6203 standard double shield.
@ $9.75 per unit it was almost the same price as bearings lol.
Last edited by King Charles; 01-24-2018 at 04:57 AM.
It wasn’t an X308 I did it to, but an X350. I fixed the interior door handle on my boss’s car, it was jammed in the open position. He asked me to take a look as I was leaving work, it turns out the 350 door panel is attached similar to the X308. However the door lock pin and handle are integrated and inferior in my opinion. The retaining pin had worked out the lock lever and jumped its position. Had it fixed and back together in around 30 minutes.
Sitting in the 350 it made me appreciate my X308s natural flowing beauty so much more.
So after replacing the shocks last night, obviously I had to test them further on the way to work today:
Suddenly I remember why I abandoned my plan to buy a beater x308 as my new winter driver! Once or twice out on the ice and snow in my nice Jag was enough to convince me that the ice and snow really isn't its best surface.
Glad to hear there was no major harm. (And now doubly glad that my new winter driver turned out to be a pickup truck with four-wheel drive.)
Okay, so it's a little nit-picky, but the unfinished edge of the vertical "fiber' shroud around the faux tool compartment on the passenger side, and the brake/coolant reservoir on the driver side bugged me. Over time the top edge frays a little, and it looks untidy.
I tried to find some of that door edging, but I guess no one uses that any more, so I bought some 1/4" vacuum tubing from the hardware store, and cut a slot down the middle with a razor-knife.
I should have taken some "before" pics, but you all know what it looks like. Anyway, here are some after pics. Minor, but I think it looks better. The driver side is less obvious as it is more hidden, but the passenger side shows the most improvement.
Last edited by Carnival Kid; 01-25-2018 at 04:34 PM.
Replaced all the hard plastic "pipes" to and from the coolant expansion tank as they were starting to drip; then found the expansion tank itself dripping under pressure where the sensor snaps into its seat. New tank and sensor and all is well.
It was a busy day for me today, but well worth it. I finally laid my hands on a perfect set of seats for my XJ. I bought them from a guy breaking a car on eBay and went to fetch them today, 340 mile round trip. I had to borrow my Dad's boring diesel Ford Focus to transport them, but I drove my XJ to his house in the morning so I had a nice drive home after I'd finished with his (crap) car.
I got the seats home and they are on my dining room floor currently until I can sort out moving them to a better place. Good thing my Girlfriend is away, she'd blow a gasket if she saw the seats in there I won't be doing anything with them for a few weeks and I'll need to strip the leather off and fit the heated seat elements from my current seats, which is a minor inconvenience but a small price to pay for what are probably the best seats I'm going to find that haven't been dyed.
I tell you what though, 5 hours and 340 miles in a Ford Focus made the drive home in the X308 seem like a magic carpet ride.
Seats will require a comprehensive clean before installation.
Driver's Bolster in nice clean condition, very minimal wear. 100% better than what I have now.
Seat base all nice and taught, leather not stretched and worn like mine.