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Well my damn serpentine saga continues lol. New pulley,new belt & new OEM tensioner & I just go to start it in low 30°'s FH & the dreaded bang has returned. I only changed out these components to rid myself of a small whirl/chirp on cold starts, now this new bangs many times worse.
Only thing I can think to do now is replacing the AC clutch bearing like here.
Originally Posted by Zues
Replaced A/C clutch bearing after noticing it catching in cold weather causing my tensioner to load and pop. Not alot of info on this but it was simple enough. Bearing is a cb-1101 or 25211 $15 with one day prime, cant beat it. 10mm bolt up front, held the clutch with a pair of oil filter pliers. Don"t lose the spacer on the spline. Snap ring holding clutch on, then wiggle off. bearing popped out with a large socket and a hammer.
If the AC bearing doesn't solve this I'm putting all the old components back in, I'd much rather have the light whirling sound than this banging.
Add insult to injury now my once dead Sport mode light works but the previously working Cruise Control back light is now out lol.
So far the only repair that was fruitful was the J-Gate & climate control lights & I'm afraid if I go back in to re-seat the soldered light in the cruise control switch I will break the J-Gate trim & housing.
Grrrrr
2BC
Edit :
I'm getting Santech Part Number: MT2027 bearing available @ Autozone as compliant.
Last edited by King Charles; 03-14-2018 at 06:25 AM.
Well my damn serpentine saga continues lol. New pulley,new belt & new OEM tensioner & I just go to start it in low 30°'s FH & the dreaded bang has returned. I only changed out these components to rid myself of a small whirl/chirp on cold starts, now this new bangs many times worse.
Only thing I can think to do now is replacing the AC clutch bearing like here.
If the AC bearing doesn't solve this I'm putting all the old components back in, I'd much rather have the light whirling sound than this banging.
I'm getting Santech Part Number: MT2027 bearing available @ Autozone as compliant.
I was able to remove the belt before hand and spin the a/c pulley to confirm it was notchy. It was a subtle catch while giving it a good spin.
THE FRONT PADS WERE ONLY 20% WORN, BUT I REPLACED THEM ANYWAY TO HAVE THE SAME MATERIAL ON ALL FOUR WHEELS>
THE REAR BRAKE PADS WERE DEFINITELY DUE FOR REPLACEMENT.
A CUT-DOWN 7mm ALLEN WRENCH MAKES REMOVING THE LOWER CALIPER BOLT ON THE REAR BRAKES MUCH EASIER.
CUTTING A STANDARD 7MM ALLEN WRENCH DOWN TO 2 3/4" MAKES THINGS EASIER.
Installed new ceramic brake pads all around this morning. The rear pads were very thin and ready for replacement, the front ones were only 20% worn, but I replaced them anyway to have the same material on all 4 wheels.
The Jaguar designers must have been in a bloody-minded mood when they designed the rear brake calipers, and decided to put the brake line connector directly in the way of the bottom caliper holding bolt. You can't get a ratchet on the allen bolt, nor a standard allen wrench that will turn more than an 1/8th of turn at a time. The best thing to do is cut down a standard 7mm allen wrench to approx 2 3/4" long and you can then turn it 360 degrees without hitting the brake line or rear suspension spring. Other that this the rear brakes are very easy to do.
The front calipers are of identical design but have no such obstruction and are very easy to do.
Well my damn serpentine saga continues lol. New pulley,new belt & new OEM tensioner & I just go to start it in low 30°'s FH & the dreaded bang has returned. I only changed out these components to rid myself of a small whirl/chirp on cold starts, now this new bangs many times worse.
Only thing I can think to do now is replacing the AC clutch bearing like here.
If the AC bearing doesn't solve this I'm putting all the old components back in, I'd much rather have the light whirling sound than this banging.
Add insult to injury now my once dead Sport mode light works but the previously working Cruise Control back light is now out lol.
So far the only repair that was fruitful was the J-Gate & climate control lights & I'm afraid if I go back in to re-seat the soldered light in the cruise control switch I will break the J-Gate trim & housing.
Grrrrr
2BC
Edit :
I'm getting Santech Part Number: MT2027 bearing available @ Autozone as compliant.
Going to change my belt back to the smoother NAPA belt before I go to removing & messing w/ more new parts.
Update :
Went back to the old smooth belt & the banging's gone for now. The chirp that caused this whole "repair" ordeal is back but much more tolerable than the banging.
I watched the belt & idler pulley run, the belt seems to be riding really close to the pulley edge. The only difference in this new pulley, is that it does not have a lip like the OEM did. I may just clean up the old idler pulley,replace the bearing & re-install. I'll chalk the tensioner up to preventive maintenance.
Last edited by King Charles; 03-15-2018 at 08:39 AM.
Installed new ceramic brake pads all around this morning. The rear pads were very thin and ready for replacement, the front ones were only 20% worn, but I replaced them anyway to have the same material on all 4 wheels.
I presume you opened the bleed nipples to evacuate the old fluid when installing the new pads?
Replaced the rotors on the front of the car due to one cracking and the other showing signs of cracks starting.
This was my Heath Robinson gizmo to pressure bleed the brakes Cost $0.00
Also fitted up a pair of day time J lights from China I think they were about $9.00 for the pair, may have been each but still cheap
Finally got around to opening my E-Bay package from weeks ago, lo & behold the guy sent me double what I ordered. I tried to contact him, but he has closed his Pay Pal & E-Bay accounts. Guess I will resale to the community here.
Add insult to injury now my once dead Sport mode light works but the previously working Cruise Control back light is now out lol.
So far the only repair that was fruitful was the J-Gate & climate control lights & I'm afraid if I go back in to re-seat the soldered light in the cruise control switch I will break the J-Gate trim & housing.
I found a guy whom not only sales the switches I need w/ tested working lights, he sales them cheap w/ a 60 day warranty ! No more struggling w/ brittle pieces to solder & twist in tiny bulbs ! Ordered the cruise control,trip odometer & fog light switches all 3 for $40 !
Check this guy out for miscellaneous X308 goodies, all tested before shipping !
I have these in the garage if you need them, although it looks like you've probably already ordered some.
Don't hesitate to PM me if you are looking for a particular part. I don't have a LOT of stuff, but there's a couple of shelves in my garage I can look through if you need something.
I have these in the garage if you need them, although it looks like you've probably already ordered some.
Don't hesitate to PM me if you are looking for a particular part. I don't have a LOT of stuff, but there's a couple of shelves in my garage I can look through if you need something.
Sure will ! As I'm likely to break something else whilest tinkering lol.
Last edited by King Charles; 03-15-2018 at 11:17 PM.
The elastic strap in the trunk for holding the manuals had lost its elasticity over the years and the manual pouch kept slipping out.
So today I bought some 1" black elastic roll from Joanns fabric shop, removed the interior side panel and replaced the elastic strap. While I was there I thought it would be a good idea to add a second strap for other items, Using the existing "middle" slot, I just cut a third slot and added a second holding strap.
Sweet!
I did the same, but with wide some non-elastic black straps, one long one, and a 'half' one like you did.
For the next rainy day, you can replicate the Jaguar umbrella holder (original on the trunk lid, but I moved it down to the back of the tank), and an emergency triangle holder .
I would like to replace the trunk damper rods, but there is no way I can get to the forward clips!
Replacing the struts on the lid was one of the first things I did when I got the car.
I remember I used a small screwdriver, then "practiced dry" a couple of times on the new rod to get my hand-angle right towards the clip.
One is a bit tighter than the other, but all in all no problem at all, 5 min max including the removal of some lining.
Replacing the struts on the lid was one of the first things I did when I got the car.
I remember I used a small screwdriver, then "practiced dry" a couple of times on the new rod to get my hand-angle right towards the clip.
One is a bit tighter than the other, but all in all no problem at all, 5 min max including the removal of some lining.
Damn!............. I'm gonna have to order some new struts and "practice"!
Is it a steel or plastic pulley? If steel then yes brake cleaner should work ok. If plastic not too sure, I would probably still use the BC
Steel, I'm going to scrub it w/ Dawn dish detergent then have @ it w/ the BC.
J-Gate resurrected & climate control display fully lit.
W/ the J-Gate fully illuminated I now notice a couple of hairline fractures in the shifter cover allowing the light to peep through. I will go armed w/ my trusty Sharpie black permanent marker & solve that riddle lol. Now just waiting on my CC switch to arrive.
Once again thanks to A.J.P for the gate bulbs !
Last edited by King Charles; 03-16-2018 at 12:36 AM.