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Went through the same thing when I first did my diff output shafts, busted knuckles quite a few times doing that... The method I found (after plenty of penetrating oil and heat) was to rotate the shaft so that the nut you are trying to free is in the most exposed position (think it was to where the nut you are wrenching in is at about 1 or 2 oclock), put a wrench on the back of the stud to "brace" the stud and shaft from rotating (so angle it to stop against some piece of subframe), and about 2.5 feet worth of extensions connected to a big f breaker bar. Also those are one of the few nuts that are SAE, think they are 11/16? Use a 6 point ofc, don't want to stick a 12pt 16mm socket on there and round them out. It's a real tight fit to get sockets in there, even at the ideal angle, the U joints tend to get in the way. I would free each one up by about a full turn then move onto the next (rotate halfshaft 90deg to put the nut in the same position), if you back them off too far it gets in the way of shaft rotation.
Very good advice. I'm going to break down and see if I can get the outer joints replaced on the car at some point next week, seeing as I have it off from work. Cutting into my sailing time, but it needs to get done. It might be a little easier if I had a shop and more clearance than just a pair of jack stands, but we'll see. I saw a thread where someone was able to do it in the car with a hand-press, so I'm going to pick one up this weekend and... pray. Assuming everything else goes well - like getting this old rotor off the rusty build up, assuming the puller works well and gets the hub off, and the clips come out of the joint, and the press works to get the old out out.. and new one in...
Or I'll just end up in a padded room with a white jacket, and sobbing.
Easy task with the stuff you get at the Auto Parts store. Their YouTube is even an X308. Just don't overfill it or you will blow the pressure switch (don't ask).
Easy task with the stuff you get at the Auto Parts store. Their YouTube is even an X308. Just don't overfill it or you will blow the pressure switch (don't ask).
I think someone already did that before my tenure. When we were getting to the ABS module for soldering we found some refrigerant residue right under & on that switch. I've checked it regularly since & it's not leaking so I gather it's still good. Should I wait to service it until I order another switch just in case it blows , I don't want to be without AC @ all in this region lol.
Here's the switch mess I found whilest doing the ABS module.
I have sourced the part #LJA7658AB in my E-Bay shopping cart just in case lol.
today change petrol filter rear splash guard control of the lower part of the bumper and battery control, 100ahp and after 5 ignitions must be 4/5 hours in charge to get back to 100%
Or I'll just end up in a padded room with a white jacket, and sobbing.
I was damn near close to that when I did my U joints, especially after both shafts still had a tiny bit of play after everything was said and done... Old u-joints were a pain to press out, burned a couple new ones when I dropped a needle during press in ("why is this cup taking so much force to press in?"), finding a local u-joint that interchanged with Jag ones, etc etc...
A bit late posting, but I replaced my cat exhaust flange gaskets with Jag OEM, and replaced my ps pump to try and solve some noises I was getting. Gaskets fixed leak by about 90%, guess the flanges on the fwd muffled I got from the junkyard are bent and won't seal without being decked, and that's too much effort for now...
The used PS pump greatly reduced some minor rpm-varying humming feedback I was getting in the steering wheel, but I'm still getting a mid-pitched whine resonance at very specific RPM's while turning (1500,1900) which I was hoping the pump would resolve. Will have to try a flush next with a different fluid, and then maybe the rack transfer pipe kit mentioned in a TSB if nothing else works.
Also left it at a shop to have them diagnose periodic hissing from the AC. Naturally they couldn't replicate the noise, guess it only happens on moderate temp days. Or the Jag chose to behave itself when at the shop, same as with alignments...
Well refrigerant added , of course I couldn't find the AC Pro so I had to go w/ the budget Super Tech brand. The nozzle that attaches to the low port was poorly made & took work to get an air tight seal, but once I did it showed to be a bit low. I replenished up to around 40, it's cooler but not as I remember last year.
I'll let the system adjust & if still not as cold as before I will go tinkering again.
Replaced my el-cheapo O2 sensor with a Bosch 15627 tonight after work. Cleared codes, restarted the car, nothing back as of yet, so we'll see how it does tomorrow going to work. I also noticed a loud air leak from where the master cylinder and brake booster come together. Not sure why, or what's caused that, or how long. Possibly it's been that way since I had replaced the booster before, and I never really heard it? Or who knows. I'll have to see if there's supposed to be a gasket between them, and if so, what happened to mine.
I have been waiting for months for all my parts to arrive... i couldnt do it all myself as i have planned for this day for a while now. We all know of the plastic tensioners. Trash lol... my jag jumped time and so I assumed it was a tensioner and got the kit from ebay ( jag parts heaven ) for $100! Don't buy your gaskets there.. anyways so I also had my alternator die this year and put a new one in. Starter in December last year and new cover valve gaskets. So we pull everything off the top, and get down to the crankshaft. It's a pain in the ***. I've got my helper underneath the car with my 22" jimmy bar holding the "triangle" in place and a breaker on the pulley bolt. I read on here they break easily. So we took it real slow.. easy peasy. Popped off the timing cover and behold: a broken guide! Was just hanging there. Slapped in the new chains, updated tensioner's made of METAL and put everything back together, flushed the system through the hose, just about 4 liters, replaced and topped off. I replaced the waterpump, some slightly bent pulleys, and changed the spark plugs as preventive measures as recommended by you all. We put everything back together and had a little leak, had to re-seal the covers as we know they like to leak...
took her for a testdrive and she purred like a kitten .. so happy with the outcome, and well worth it.
considering the new parts and everything that's happened with that car that has gone wrong I've fixed and I truly believe it will drive for another 100,000. I'm going to take it nice and easy for about 500 miles before I catch some asphalt.
Thanks guys!
not even the worst of it Much smoother with those new rails, some lucas and new sparks? Hell yeah Heres a picture of some trash lmao $100 kit from ebay Vegas Very nice, gets lots of love on the inside if you know what i mean .. lololol
Well my AC's frigid now, I guess that small shot of refrigerant kicked in for the win !
Going to a renowned shop tomm. for an alignment & proper rear end diagnosis(the rare Saturday appt. cost me too lol). First shop claimed it was wheel bearings, which it was not (@ least not entirely). This shop will not give up as easy, they come highly recommended in the region for 30+ years. I suspect the first shop misdiagnosed the driver's side wheel bearing for that side's output shaft noise.
Last edited by King Charles; 06-08-2018 at 08:08 PM.
Ever since I had a specialist assemble my 15HU rear end with Torsen LSD I've had excessive play in the stub shafts. Assuming the worst I bought another set of new diff shaft bearings. Was going to take the shafts out to examine but found it easier to drop the whole rear subframe :I've done this before. Found that the expert shop didn't put it together right and didn't put enough press force in the collars. Despite operating with such play the virtually new bearings are fine. I'm changing them anyway. No nasty metal bits in the diff fluid. The jurid is a little worm and cracked- so replacing that also. Parts should arrive this week- which is when I'll put it all back together. Moral of the story: don't trust a rear end expert who's only used to putting together yank solid axle trucks and muscle cars. Might as well take it to a tractor/ horse carriage specialist. Better to do it yourself!
Took apart an X308 instrument cluster. I dislike the font and the way the gauges look on the x308- they don't look classy to me and look rather basic (it's no suprise that they are made by Visteon-thanks Ford!) although not as bad as the early S type gauges - which are a low point IMO. Looking at how it's all put together
Took apart an X308 instrument cluster. I dislike the font and look of the x308 gauges ( although the early S type was the worst IMO). Looking into options to redress the gauges/ try a different font.
Looking into options to redress the gauges/ try a different font
There are several companies out there who make new dials, allowing you to change about everything of the design (colors, customized signature, fonts, sizes, etc).
I bought a set for our previous SLK to change from MPH to KMH.
A small notch below the OEM quality, but pretty good, and once it is all installed, pretty perfect.
Below a link to this company, but as said, there are several out there.
There are several companies out there who make new dials, allowing you to change about everything of the design (colors, customized signature, fonts, sizes, etc).
I bought a set for our previous SLK to change from MPH to KMH.
A small notch below the OEM quality, but pretty good, and once it is all installed, pretty perfect.
Below a link to this company, but as said, there are several out there.
Thank you. I know that German company, issue is, I found them , like a lot of German aftermarket businesses, quite inflexible in terms of straying from anything OEM style. I'll look US-wards.
06-04-2018, 12:03 PM
