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Broken exhaust bracket nnc6803ac. Needs a 10mm spanner New exhaust bracket nnc6803ac
Noticed that this bracket had broken, so finally replaced it. It's tucked out of sight somewhat.
Picked the car up today coolant leak repaired(loose hose fitting),alignment & inspection completed no issues.
My rear end howl on the other hand, after having been diagnosed a bad driver side rear wheel bearing in 3 different shops. I went back to the shop that supposedly replaced the bearing as it was under warranty. He thoroughly checked everything & says it's the rear differential, he says he checked & found metal particles in the fluid(which was just replaced 1,500 miles ago & was clean then so it's a new issue). he suspects clutch packs may be the issue. It only howls on curves when gas is applied, it makes no noise if I coast into curves or turns so it's really odd to me. The thing that irks me is why would not 1 not 2, but 3 shops diagnose the rear driver side bearing as the problem, instead of delving deeper as they have now to find a rear diff. issue ?! I have no problem replacing the rear diff. w/a re-manufactured or low mileage used unit. But factor in all the time, not mention $ spent in diagnosis fees, taking the car to different shops etc. It really annoys me lol. I mean how can I trust that it is indeed the rear differential & that will remedy my howling issue ?!
The life of a X308 owner, never boring my friends.
Clutch packs? Do you have an lsd retrofitted to that car?
No I think it was for lack of words he termed it that, point being there's metal on metal going on. I found a rear differential w/ 23K miles if I have to go the replacement route. Thing is if I take it to another shop I'd wager my left ******** they say it's the wheel bearing lol. But metal in the rear fluid's definitely new.
Last edited by King Charles; 09-28-2018 at 06:17 PM.
Just to play devil's advocate, but did he show you the shavings he claimed he found in the rear end? As you said, 3 other shops said wheel bearing, the fluid changed only 1500 miles ago and was sparkling, so personally, if I hadn't seen the evidence, I'd be wary of more money at it just on a say-so. Not saying it might not be, or that he might not be on the level. I've just been burned enough to suspect everything. Though I can also see how shops might diagnose it as a bearing, as it's a common source of noise, and usually the likely culprit. But there are so many things in the equation, it's hard to know. You have to have the diff good, the diff bearing tight, no play in the u-joints, or the pivot pin bearings, and wheel bearings, or shocks and springs, or else the tiniest thing gets out of line and then noises happen and.. As you said, the life of an owner. I definitely look forward to seeing what the ultimate resolution is though
Just to play devil's advocate, but did he show you the shavings he claimed he found in the rear end? As you said, 3 other shops said wheel bearing, the fluid changed only 1500 miles ago and was sparkling, so personally, if I hadn't seen the evidence, I'd be wary of more money at it just on a say-so. Not saying it might not be, or that he might not be on the level. I've just been burned enough to suspect everything. Though I can also see how shops might diagnose it as a bearing, as it's a common source of noise, and usually the likely culprit. But there are so many things in the equation, it's hard to know. You have to have the diff good, the diff bearing tight, no play in the u-joints, or the pivot pin bearings, and wheel bearings, or shocks and springs, or else the tiniest thing gets out of line and then noises happen and.. As you said, the life of an owner. I definitely look forward to seeing what the ultimate resolution is though
Yeah he showed me no evidence of metal shavings, the thing is this is the shop that did the initial wheel bearing replacement, it was howling the same afterwards, I complained & he said they did struggle with bearing's spacers etc. I took it to another indy shop whom assured me it was a loose/incorrectly installed wheel bearing & gave me their quote. The previous shop had a warranty on labor, so I took it back & now he's saying the bearing's fine & it's the rear differential. I think I'm done w/ that shop as he may not want to admit they botched the bearing job & now he's just deflecting. I'm going to go back to the other indy whom diagnosed the bearing AFTER the 1st guy's bearing job,& making it clear I expect it to be the correct diagnoses & repair before hand lol.
Some positives from this trip are : it's properly aligned,found my pesky coolant leak & it's inspected so there's that lol.
Last edited by King Charles; 09-28-2018 at 07:23 PM.
Yeah he showed me no evidence of metal shavings, the thing is this is the shop that did the initial wheel bearing replacement, it was howling the same afterwards, I complained & he said they did struggle with bearing's spacers etc. I took it to another indy shop whom assured me it was a loose/incorrectly installed wheel bearing & gave me their quote. The previous shop had a warranty on labor, so I took it back & now he's saying the bearing's fine & it's the rear differential. I think I'm done w/ that shop as he may not want to admit they botched the bearing job & now he's just deflecting. I'm going to go back to the other indy whom diagnosed the bearing AFTER the 1st guy's bearing job,& making it clear I expect it to be the correct diagnoses & repair before hand lol.
Some positives from this trip are : it's properly aligned,found my pesky coolant leak & it's inspected so there's that lol.
I had a rear end go on me- on my XJR. It was the stock 14 HU unit. It sounded initially like a helicopter. Typically noises from the diff are howling/whining/high pitched.
The wheel bearing noise is the famous deeper howling/growling.
The wheel bearing noise should change in pitch when you go around corners, while the diff noise should change depending on power-on and power off antics. This is because the gears contact at a different point/amount depending on under load or lift off.
CHeck for wheel bearing play by rocking the rear wheel in question while holding at 3 oclock and 9 oclock. The way the rear suspension is- its unlikely to show excessive play at the 12 oclock/6 oclock positions (vertical) because the driveshaft/wishbone geometry on the old X308s. Also- after a long drive, put your hand on the hub of suspect bearing and feel its temperature and compare it to another non suspect wheel.
Added some lucas oil, upper cylinder lubricant.
Seems to have given the engine a new lease of life after one shot.
I haven't used a fuel conditioner like this for over a year or more so it seems like it was needed.
I’ve been busy today working on my Jag, despite having a splitting headache for most of the day. I began with trying to solve my heating issue, but that didn’t take I was later to find.
I then set about adding some fluid to my transmission, not an easy task as I’m sure many of you know. I got about 1/2 a litre in there, but still think the level is low. It’s such a poor design the way ZF want the fluid adding, it’s even more frustrating the retrofit kit for an engine bay filler seems to be a non starter.
Finally I went to the rear of the car to replace the bushes on my rear Anti roll bar. This was so easy to do, I had it done in 25 minutes, it was suspiciously easy. Everything came undone easily because whoever had done it before had coated everything in copper grease. So new drop links and bushes, no rattles and I notice the difference in the corners. Nice.
I’ll need a new set of tyres for the car soon, these are pretty low. November will be expensive
Not being anything like as ambitious as some on this forum, this week I decided to tackle a few jobs myself on my '98 VDP. I have had the timing chain tensioner's replaced and the TransGo kit installed in the Transmission, brakes, shocks, water pump and thermostat housing replaced, but all done by a mechanic. So I thought I'd get my hands dirty and try a couple of things that needed attention. First I replaced the engine coolant by-pass hose, the one that's only a couple of inches long, as I had noticed that it was beginning to bulge. That job went well, and no leaks afterward. The next job was to try to solve the ABS light that would come on intermittently, about 1 trip in 7 I'd say. I had read Carnival Kids posts on cleaning up the sensors, so after buying myself a "Harbor Freight" 3 ton floor jack, I removed the wheels one by one, unbolted the sensors and cleaned them. The front sensor rotors are easily accessed and cleaned with a wire brush, but the rear ones are accessed through hole that the sensor fits in. so I soaked a rag in brake cleaner, pushed it down the hole with a screwdriver, put the transmission in neutral and rotated the wheel a few times, and cleaned the sensor rotors quite well. After putting everything back together, I started up the motor and the ABS light was on under the tachometer, but the traction control warning under the speedometer was off, as they had been coming on together. I checked all my connections, and then drove off down the street at a high rate of speed, feeling pretty disappointed at my attempted fix. But half way down the street the ABS light went out and stayed out, that's never happened before. So I'm fairly sure the problem has gone....for now.
we'll see if it lasts.
The XJR doesn't get used much these days, which means the battery gets slowly drained between runs. So I bought a Ctek battery charger and wired up the plug using the eyelet attachment that comes with it.
Was a little bit of a mission because of the stereo install, but on a regular car it would be a piece of cake, and the plug tucks nicely between the cover panel for the battery and the trim piece on the side of the trunk. So now when I want to keep the battery charged I can just plug it straight in without having to try to get the clamps onto the battery posts! Easy!
I then set about adding some fluid to my transmission, not an easy task as I’m sure many of you know. I got about 1/2 a litre in there, but still think the level is low. It’s such a poor design the way ZF want the fluid adding, it’s even more frustrating the retrofit kit for an engine bay filler seems to be a non starter.
Stu, I think there are a few tips when it comes to getting the level right.
In my experience, the transmission fluid pump whined under acceleration if the fluid was too low.
Absolutely key was getting the car perfectly level. That might have thrown my first attempt.
I never let the temp go much above 40 degrees during the top up either. ZF said to stop and let it cool down if it hit 50.
I used a siphon pump from ebay which worked quite easily - also useful for the differential fluid as it can be cleaned easily.
It seemed like topping it up again a day or two later allowed more fluid to be added. Maybe a bit of light driving dislodged an air pocket somewhere?
Anyway, just my thoughts after attempting this myself.
Did some parasitic draw tests. Thank you all that helped!!
My center AC wood grain peice fell off today. It has all the metal tabs on it, but doesn't hold into place. Anyone know how these are held on?
Did some parasitic draw tests. Thank you all that helped!!
My center AC wood grain peice fell off today. It has all the metal tabs on it, but doesn't hold into place. Anyone know how these are held on?
There should be spring clips in the areas where the tabs go, similar to those on the doors.
Chris, thanks for the tip on the fluid, It’s such a silly thing to have to deal with. I’m trying to find out if those dipstick filler kits are still available, I know some folks had them a while back.
Replaced the right hand bank of sparks,but they looked quite awful. I reckon I'll need to address some oil burning issues at some stage soon. Popped a borescope down to find some pretty black looking piston heads. I'll get on with the other side another day.
Valve clearances need checking as there's a lot of tapping going on at times.
Sprayed the underside with dynax too. New sparks in, old sparks out
Puddle lamps upgraded to LEDs,center dash vent & clock replaced,door/window switch pack bulbs replaced & the seat belt slider adjuster replaced. These things may appear to trivial to most, but they have been a thorn in my buttocks for many a moon lol.
Puddle lamps upgraded to LEDs,center dash vent & clock replaced,door/window switch pack bulbs replaced & the seat belt slider adjuster replaced. These things may appear to trivial to most, but they have been a thorn in my buttocks for many a moon lol.
That sets off a well maintained Jag against the many crap usually seen on Facebook.
09-28-2018, 01:21 PM
