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I think rear Camber is actually only significantly adjusted via plates between the drive shafts and the diff. Have a good look in the workshop manual, or search within jaguar forums. Might be worth your while using a grease gun on the u joints under there. Preventative maintenance.
Thanks again! I wish I'd had time to get out a grease gun and blast those fittings with it...maybe next time...
Camber was close enough, according to the machine. When I need to replace the flex discs I'll have a look...I think I may have downloaded the Workshop Manual, so I'll need to look it up later. For now: If it ain't broke don't fix it. The pinion seal, obviously, is broke, and will (hopefully) soon be fixed!
Today, I will do nothing with my XJ8. I have to drive my van...
Not risking water/condensation being trapped under the cover to in turn ruin newish paint lol.
Yes, have to admit I would be cautious for the same reasons, maybe a much better quality, "breathable" cover would be okay for outside, but of course the answer is under cover storage.
Yes, have to admit I would be cautious for the same reasons, maybe a much better quality, "breathable" cover would be okay for outside, but of course the answer is under cover storage.
One day, onnnnnne day I will have my garage again lol.
Mine has not left the garage in three weeks and today should have been Cars-n-Coffee, but with large gatherings being discouraged, certainly since the Lafayette CO Police were the sponsors for securing the monthly event, I will guess it did not happen. But now it is time for a good wash, dead bugs all over the front and windshield
Temps today will be in the low 60's F, tomorrow upper 70's F so it is time to get the fluids circulated and I got my adrenaline pumped up too! I did remember to keep a charge on the battery. Last time it sat for 3 weeks it drained the battery, so now if it sits for more than 2 weeks, it gets a battery liquid check and a full overnight charge. Now off to debug a 1647 DTC upstream sensor issue I replaced 6 months ago as a set of 2 upstream and 2 downstream, while I learn the workings of my new IDS/SDD Setup on a Panasonic Tough Book with my new-to-me OEM Rotunda VCM and cables!!
BTW, anyone have a good condition, not sun deteriorated rear cyclops brake light assembly?
Cheers!
Last edited by StagByTriumph; 04-04-2020 at 06:47 PM.
Installed LED pilot lights, reverse lights and license plate lights.
Thanks Z07Brandon for the suggestion. Do you have any part numbers and manufacturers that work, and photos? I have tried a few brands of LED bulbs, none so far work with the burned out lamp detection control module.
Last edited by StagByTriumph; 04-05-2020 at 11:19 AM.
I use led bulbs from the retro fit source. If you buy some, use code WRENCH15 for 15% off. I want to buy hid low beams, and fogs, but I'm sure they'll give bigger discounts as time goes on. I'll take pics of the lights tonight.
Pics. Real quick on the reverse lights. I had an xj sport before this. In that one, I put reverse lights from vleds. Those had a 600lm rating. These have a 500lm rating. Truthfully, these have a nicer color, and direct the light better.
Think my suspension is permanently set to firm as the ride can be quite harsh. Haven't found a point to point test for confirming if the dampers are sound or not, so I connected the laptop up and found some chassis codes affecting all four corners : C 1422, 1432, 1430, 1417. Thing is they could be quite old, so I've deleted them. Will check again after a test drive. Also checked the front connectors themselves for battery positive and ground, and they seem fine.
At least I got my head around the jaguar software this time. Always cause me a headache. :-) Checking the cats with jaguar sdd Cats connectors
Swapped the center ac vent piece with a perfect used one. Floored it the other day, and center wood grain flew off. Then it wouldn't even stay in place.
It's been a long slog but finally got all the rust repairs done today!, got to say normally I would have scrapped something so bad!, both front legs,both inner wings,both front sills , both floors , rear sills, rear subframe mounting points, and not mention the wheel arches,. Just got refeb the rear axle assembly and bye in large we're good, if anyone wants to know how I tackled some of these jobs with hardly any special tools I've got hundreds of photos, never know might give someone some inspiration , I managed to make all the repair panels the I needed from 1mm/2mm sheet steel, anyway that's another jag saved for the time being.
Chris-jag that photo of a working IDS makes me jealous... after all the time I've spent beating my head against a desk, trying to get it to work in a VM for me, and talk to my da-vina...
Anyway, I finally had to tackle a couple of noises that have been driving me insane.
Noise 1 - FR suspension creak on movement. Think I traced it to the tie rod end, boot was torn. Dripped some 3in1 oil into there and it seemed to have quieted it down (will know more on the drive to work tomorrow). Suspecting with the torn boot, the grease finally all got washed out.
Noise 2 - rattle/buzz from from the dash, near windshield, worse on cold days, stops if you press on the dash. Either the windshield climate vent, or the dash rattling against the glass itself. Was able to pull the center and left sections of vent, without breaking them somehow, and stick some anti rattle tape between the vents and dash leather. Will see after some driving if that solved it, if not I'll probably stick some round rubber foot pads between the dash/glass to add pressure and separate the two. Bit kludgey, but it's easier than dissembling the entire dash...
Also discovered my FL lower ball joint has play. Again. After already warrantying it once. Seems this is a yearly thing, but only with the left side. Hopefully the radial pull from my old tires is what did it in, and with new front tires, the replacement LBJ lasts more than a year and change.
Got an LCA and tie rod end ordered up, and may get some LED's for the turn signals, to add a cheap fun project to distract from the times. Get those security arm/disarm flashes a bit more visible on cold days, vs the incandescents which need some warm up.