What did you do to your X308 Today?
#4061
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ericjansen (04-13-2020)
#4062
#4063
Update : Bingo !
Last edited by King Charles; 04-14-2020 at 12:36 AM.
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Carnival Kid (04-14-2020)
#4065
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King Charles (04-14-2020)
#4067
#4069
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King Charles (04-14-2020)
#4070
#4071
[QUOTE=ericjansen;2217616]Look who's out of the 1 year, self-imposed storage?
Need to do some interior work, started with prepping the steering wheel, then a good wash and polish, and an oil change.
Man, I actually forgot how nice a car this is.
That car is absolutely gorgeous. The only thing I would change about my X308 is the color, I love BRG.
Need to do some interior work, started with prepping the steering wheel, then a good wash and polish, and an oil change.
Man, I actually forgot how nice a car this is.
That car is absolutely gorgeous. The only thing I would change about my X308 is the color, I love BRG.
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ericjansen (04-22-2020)
#4072
RESOLVED: Locking/Opening Driver's Door!
Had this annoying situation with the right side (driver's) door not locking or opening when I used the fob, all the other doors and boot worked fine off the fob. If I used the key, all 4 doors and boot locks worked perfectly.
I decided that while the 'lockdown' was in force I would take the time to have a go at the problem, I started with the Electrical guide, which is usually a no no for me! Behind the left Heelboard, there's a Violet Relay with Slate/Green wire from it that goes over the drive tunnel to a 'Splice Header' (sort of connector block, 1 Slate/Green In - 4 Slate/Green Out) the Splice Header is behind the right Heelboard, the 4 wires coming out are all Slate/Green and 1 goes to each door actuator.
I did a continuity check between the Splice Header and the connector block (CAB-4) in the bottom of the door, there was no continuity. I traced the loom in the bottom of the door to behind where the Speaker opening is, and found the Slate/Green wire. I tugged at it to get some slack to fix to it, and it simply pulled out altogether, about 10" of it, it had broken inside the rubber protection boot between the door and 'A' Pillar.
It was a bit of a struggle to get the protection boot back far enough to re-solder the wire, but I got it eventually and it now works a treat! While the protection boot was pulled back, I took the time to check all the other wires in the loom coming through into the door, and they all seemed fairly new!
I'm really happy I got the problem fixed, but the only reason I can think of as to how it became broken is the constant flexing when opening and closing the door, and being the driver's door it gets the most use! The only thing is that none of the other wires, at that particular place, showed any kind of damage?
Paul
I decided that while the 'lockdown' was in force I would take the time to have a go at the problem, I started with the Electrical guide, which is usually a no no for me! Behind the left Heelboard, there's a Violet Relay with Slate/Green wire from it that goes over the drive tunnel to a 'Splice Header' (sort of connector block, 1 Slate/Green In - 4 Slate/Green Out) the Splice Header is behind the right Heelboard, the 4 wires coming out are all Slate/Green and 1 goes to each door actuator.
I did a continuity check between the Splice Header and the connector block (CAB-4) in the bottom of the door, there was no continuity. I traced the loom in the bottom of the door to behind where the Speaker opening is, and found the Slate/Green wire. I tugged at it to get some slack to fix to it, and it simply pulled out altogether, about 10" of it, it had broken inside the rubber protection boot between the door and 'A' Pillar.
It was a bit of a struggle to get the protection boot back far enough to re-solder the wire, but I got it eventually and it now works a treat! While the protection boot was pulled back, I took the time to check all the other wires in the loom coming through into the door, and they all seemed fairly new!
I'm really happy I got the problem fixed, but the only reason I can think of as to how it became broken is the constant flexing when opening and closing the door, and being the driver's door it gets the most use! The only thing is that none of the other wires, at that particular place, showed any kind of damage?
Paul
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ericjansen (04-22-2020)
#4074
Each time I have the rough idle & restricted performance that comes & goes & the OBD-2 reader shows cylinder misfire & the # of the cylinder change depending on which coil.
Last done for coil #8 1 year ago @ 90K miles.
It was Cyl # 8 so got DTC P0358, Ignition coil H.
Time b4 that was coil #6 & had several codes.
P0306 cylinder 6 misfire detected, generic code
P1314: misfire catalyst damage bank 2 engine mechanical fault
P1316: Misfire exceeds emissions
Several forum threads on this.
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chris-jag (06-05-2020),
King Charles (04-24-2020)
#4076
Eric, you're a genious! Following your comment about the trunk hinge I thought I would best check, after removing the plastic cover I found another broken wire. It was Red/Yellow which appears to be the Trunk Switch?
Re-soldered that one too, and now the 'Boot Open' warning seems to have stopped playing up (I did a different post about this warning appearing everytime I opened and closed the Trunk).
Once again, thanks Eric, and for your kind words... feeling better each day
Paul
Re-soldered that one too, and now the 'Boot Open' warning seems to have stopped playing up (I did a different post about this warning appearing everytime I opened and closed the Trunk).
Once again, thanks Eric, and for your kind words... feeling better each day
Paul
#4077
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joedee (04-25-2020)
#4078
#4080
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King Charles (04-24-2020)