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Man those exhausts are looking so shiny! Thanks guys, now I feel like I need to do this too...and its still cold here so I guess springtime after I buy an undercarriage washer and knock something off my car that probably is supposed to stay on it.
I've seen those undercarriage washers before, for many years. Been thinking about picking one up myself because my truck and Durango tend to get very crusty underneath from lack of use and when they do get used it can be messy. Guess I'll need a pressure washer too...this all sounds expensive, but worth it since I'm buying toys!
It took me a while to understand, what you will do with a washer...: Buy replacement washers even before you loose the OE washers under the nuts? (bolts, nuts, washers)
I guess you mean a water pressure cleaner... I have that is permanent use, but that does not suffice to get the exhaust system shiny.
Nice day today, 55F in February 4 days after it was -10F. Took the Jag out for a bath and drove with the windows open too.
Also receivereceiver of inexpensive LED bulbs i bought for my hibeams. They'll do for now, but I'm not sure I care for them yet. Bit bluer than I'd like and the beam pattern isn't very full like with halogens...but $29 for 6000k H7 leds, what can I expect?
Fog Lamp switch replaced and changed Supercharger oil
The front fog lamp light on the switch to the left of the steering wheel was not lighting up. The rear fog lamp light was coming on only. I pulled the wood panel off behind the steering wheel on the dash and it is very easy to do. Disconnected the switch and started tinkering to see why. Switch is held in by 2 tabs and was easy to come out. There are 3 bulbs in there and I tried to get each one out but ended up breaking one that has probably been in there for the car’s entire life. The bulb that broke cost $12 at Home Depot. There are 2 other bulbs in there that I could not figure out how to take them out. I had already searched online and I knew the switch was very cheap. I purchased 2 switches for a grand total of $30 shipped. Just in case one worked and the other one did not. I put everything back together and tested both switches and hallelujah, both bulbs light up on the switch and the entire switch illuminates when you have the head lamps on. Very easy to do and I would say a elementary school student could do this easily.
The Supercharger oil change was a breeze also. I searched the internet and this site and some others gave great instructions. The oil was black as could be with less than 50K on the speedometer. The old oil spell is not as bad as some have said it was in my opinion. I got out about 5 oz of fluid. Of course I did not get all of the oil out. I will do another oil change in another month to get as much out as possible again. I let the oil weep out slight when putting the new oil back in, dried up with a rag around the plug and tightened the plug down and drove the car. No seepage was coming out when I returned from the road test and I can relax for the rest of the day !!!
Had new Bilsteins installed front and rear, new URO front mounts, replaced stabilizer bushings and links and replaced the exhaust hangers. Rides like new, very quiet. Replaced the burned out bulb to the glove box (what a PIA with old arthritic hands!). Tech said the brakes are good for now. Next up, transmission fluid and filter change (with a Transgo pressure regulator valve).
Aleady have too much in this unit; but it is like new with only 61000 miles -- less than 30,000 in the last 18 years!
The differential went out on J3 coming home from a long drive. It was making horrible noises and I was concerned I would not make it before it completely failed.
Removed the rear end from my son's wrecked XJ8 and installed it this weekend with the help of my son and grandson. Six hours to remover both, install the new one in J3, and put the old one in the wreck so we can get it towed away soon. Replaced the shocks, rubber parts as well as replaced the gear oil while it was out of course! Car runs great now!
The release button stopped working on my Daimler and it was starting to annoy me. I looked online and retailers wanted £70 for a new button and harness, that's way too much for such a small piece.
I took the lining off and removed the chrome trim and unscrewed the button. there was a microswitch that had failed. A bit of googling and I came up with a ZF DC2C-Q5AA switch, £3..
It was a direct replacement and now the release is working like new. Just thought I'd share the switch part number with you guys
That reminds me, I need to check how to strip the boot lock down so I can open it with the key if needed. Loads of WD40 down the barrel over the course of several months hasn't sorted it, so I need to do it properly.
Sounds like Mr. Rust has paid you a visit. It is a good idea to keep these locks well lubricated.
as you never know when the gremlins will strike the electronic switch.
Today, I finished my factory sound system upgrade. I put in a Motorola BT unit, voice activated and streaming, wire directly into the OEM unit, plus I added what I’ve been adding to all my XJR’s front door, the Alpine twitters. It makes all the difference in the world!!!! When these came out back in the day, I’d buy the rear tweeters and cups from the dealer. It took me a while to hunt these down but I’m telling you, it’s the best thing you can do to brighten up the system.
Last edited by Collector1; 02-25-2023 at 04:01 PM.
Cool upgrade Collector, so you just basically used the rear handle buckets complete with the tweeter and wired in place of the factory a-pillar tweeters?
Please, more info on your Bluetooth upgrade. Need to do this myself as well.
Cool upgrade Collector, so you just basically used the rear handle buckets complete with the tweeter and wired in place of the factory a-pillar tweeters?
Please, more info on your Bluetooth upgrade. Need to do this myself as well.
Yes, I buy the rear cups and twitters and then wire them into the front door speakers. As for the BT system, I bought the Motorola T605. Jim Roal has a PDF on the internet and I followered both his pictures and wiring diagrams and integrated it directly into the factory wiring. It’s quite easy and straight forward. The mic, I just removed the guts from the factory unit and put the one from the T605 inside it, it’s actually a direct fit once you remove the black plastic housing on the T605 mic. The problem with using the factory mic is, there is a suppression board inside the factory mic unit, that needs the power from the factory unit to work correctly. It must be changed out to work correctly with the Motorola T605. Everything else is very straightforward.
Here is the link http://jimroal.com/cars/X308Bluetooth.pdf
BTW, you don’t need the little wired dongle as you’ll only need it for pairing and then just hid it away.
With the dongle Moved the dongle and put it underneath.
Last edited by Collector1; 02-26-2023 at 06:35 PM.
Not exactly today but week ago I took car out of the winter garage and replaced key fob cr2032 battery to correct 2x cr2016 batteries. What a difference when correct voltage is used.
Ordered ln last week new brake discs again. Hopefully ATE basic discs are good stuff. Sadly neither ATE or Zimmerman know anything about 325mm front discs when it comes to drilled or grooved discs. Both of those brands are known to be good in sport discs. It pisses me off when discs stays true only for a few months of casual street driving. I know that front hubs are not warped. Dont know about the rear ones.
It pisses me off when discs stays true only for a few months of casual street driving. I know that front hubs are not warped. Dont know about the rear ones.
Proper wheel torque on the lug nuts is very important as well. It’s also unfortunate that there’s a whole lot of cheap Chinese parts so some good Textar rotors I’ve used before should work out well for you.
02-04-2023, 10:32 PM
