Primarily tramlining. Road grooves here in Finland are nasty. Slightly narrower and taller rubber helps on that.

 

mine was tramlining badly till i replaced shocks and mounts, now on 245/45 it is gone. does 255 even fit the fronts? mine scrubs well a bit at full lock

 

It ought to fit just fine, factory size.

 

I have been thinking about replacing all of the front suspension arms bushes. But all of them are intact. Soft yes but not broke in any way. I know about aging rubber bush. But still I'm not fully sure If I want to do it. Car goes(pulls) in to the groove as it should and exits there as it should. I might wait untill lower ball joint brokes etc and I have to buy oem spring compressor.

 

Vauxi, I would not be sure I would want to do that either. Especially if it was not causing an issue.

 

Had a look and you are right, 255/40 is listed as oem, so perhaps i have deformed well lining, and on both sides

 

Different makes of tyre come up slightly different to each other, so it might just be there.

 

[img]/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif[/img]From before: "Got a low coolant light: coolant level is correct. The coolant level sensor appears to have slipped out of the reservoir. Reinstalled: still have the light. Ordered a new sensor from Rock Auto; if that doesn't fix the problem will order a new reservoir, which comes with new sensor, float and cap. In the meantime, cross circuit the the sensor to quit the light."

Woo hoo: new sensor arrived, snapped it in. no warning light.

Had the tires balanced last week; much improved, especially over concrete bridges. Abacus tied up the fuel filter and replaced the plastic fuel line separators; got an oil change. Wheel alignment next week; hopefully fixes the wind wander. Road trip to Charlotte for Fathers' Day.

 

I just found a very interesting X308/X300 comparison video on youtube, with lovely engine sound in the background:
But more importantly, this video gives some useful background information, and it finally put my mind at ease regarding "Nikasil", as I simply was not sure, if I have a X308, where the engine with the Nikasil had been replaced or not - read the note in the video: Apparently, if you don't have a problem now due to Nikasil yet, you would not get any problems anymore, because the fuel these days is better - Nikasil apparently had a problem with the Sulfur in the petrol back then...

 

Repaired my broken trunk wire harness where it typically breaks at the hinge bending point, now I have some type of Body Module issue with no DTC's.

It seems the 12 wires in the trunk lid harness were all easily color matched for re-connecting with solder and heat shrink, EXCEPT the three Red w/ White tracer wires.

According to the schematics it appears those Red w/ White tracer are sourced differently from the Body Control Module, and I need to know how to identify the individual source and function of those three wires all in the same wire bundle.
Fortunately the all black wires are all grounds, and the other wires are well uniquely marked with color and trace color.

The Licence Plate lights to not work and the Trunk interior lighting does not work, BUT the rear trunk release button and the interior dash trunk release buttons both now release the trunk latch which was my main goal, no blown fuses, if I can completely believe the 2000 Electrical schematics and 2000 Fuse descriptions from my vehicle manuals, but now no Mirror control, no steering column control, can't get out of park without a mechanical push on the latch. Starts, runs and drives just fine if I release from Park manually. Swapped the various relays for the Fuel lid lock which also works with lock / unlock commands.

The steering column has power as with the column switch in "Auto", it moves up and down with the key insert and remove meaning it is also sensing the key inserted switch properly, Seat memory buttons work, seat movement works, window controls work, moon roof works, so it is probably the body module needs some nudging.

Fingers cross I do not need a new body module.

I'll be hooking up IDS/SDD this morning to see what comes up for issues, but my hope is reconfiguring the Body Module will resolve my issues or, I may need to trace the three Red w/ White trace wires back to their functions and then from the break downstream to where they are supposed to go. Kind of stupid design to put three wires of the same color / tracer in the same harness bundle unless they are all the same thing - DOH!!

I'll do a search for that, but if anyone has been down that road, please post your thoughts.

 

BPM doesn’t store DTCs. it’s only configurable for dealer options and that’s it

 

@xalty Thanks for that, I discovered no Body Module selectable when I hooked up and it does not show in the module list. That initially made my heart sink thinking the module was not communicating with the rest of the car. So I enabled a few features just to see if they would save to the body module and the setting changed and confirmed. Learned something new today on the X308 then.

So for any of you with inquiring minds, my issue was indeed a blown fuse. The Body module has at least 4 separate fuses (probably more) that are used for different areas it is controling. So once I discovered all the fuses associated with the Body Module and the devices it controls, the one that controls solenoids and lights was indeed blown - all working okaydokay, nice to have lighting and remote unlock again working. I'm Happy Boy ... after I did !!

And I placed the replacement XJ8 Trunk Plinth also so the old girl is looking a bit more respectable again at 131k miles.

I have a new set of Upstream oxygen sensors on order to replace the cheapo ones that lasted only about 3 years before the heaters opened, each failed within a month of each other. So go cheap and replace them often and bust nuckles on the left ones, or go OEM and forget them for more years. They are after all, maintenance consumables, so spend $40 each or $200 each, well I can replace 5 cheapos across 15 years for the cost of one OEM, false economy as the Brits say.

BTW @xalty I did buy a THINKDIAG as an easier and quicker diagnostic tool, found a verified ThinkCar distributor, got it for $49 including shipping and the software registration for one manufacturer. Its a bit quirky, but works well on both my X308 and X350, although I need to learn the other diagnostics available for the X350. On my X308 it cannot recognize the VIN so I needed to enter it once manually. When it comes up and ID's the car with the VIN before moving forward to the diagnostics, it ID's the vehicle as an X300, not an x308. I need to take that screenshot and send some feedback to ThinkCar. I like the quick check to test inputs and outputs by system, although on the X308 it is limited for output testing.

Cheers!

 

Drove it for the first time in over a month, after getting into a rear subframe service for some bushings, then deciding to replace the diff, and hub pivot bearings, only for the bearings to be delayed then lost by DHL... and having to give up and buy them from another vendor.

But hey, it feels good now, front and rear feel very balanced. Got an alignment done after the service, and the back end was dead on (I marked alignment bolts and reinstalled in original orientation) which was reassuring after replacing so many parts. Now to just drive it some more and get a better feel for it, then start to tackle the last remaining known issues (timing cover oil leak, AC system overhaul).

So for the record, all 4 LCA bushings, 2 upper "pendulum" bushings, all 4 hub pivot bearings, rear jurid coupling, and a low-mileage rear diff. Shouldn't need to touch that subframe again for a while I hope.

 

> ...the last remaining known issues (timing cover oil leak, AC system overhaul).
I assume you know that removing the timing cover is a biggy!?
Here is my DIY guide about that:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-swap-266724/
Thus, if you remove the timing cover, you could just as well throw in a new timing chain, chain guides and tensioners... - and the new timing cover seal should come with the chain-kit.

 

Finally dug into the electrical issues. (No power seats, no power steering wheel controls, and a dead radio). Found three blown fuses. Once replaced, everything worked!! Hooray!! I wish every problem was this simple.

 

Right, so new Upstream Sensors arrived Thursday and this weekend I tackled the job on Sunday on Fathers Day. Knowing it is less than a 2 hour job, I enthusiastically tackled the difficult side, Bank 2 / B Bank - aka left side of the car first.
Battery disconnected, remove top side plastic covers and air intake box, drain ~ 2 - 3 liters / 3/4 gallon of coolant, expansion tank level switch disconnected removed, loosen the blend valve and remove the connector to move it out of the way to get to the heat shield bolts, tetris ppuzzle to get the heat shield out cleanly without cutting or breaking any hoses.
Eventhough I have a full set of O2 sensor sockets, a 7/8" (22mm)open end wrench works much faster for me with a box end on it for a lever extension to break the sensor loose. Disconnect the connector, out, In, reroute the wire and connectors "snap" together and placed back on the holder bracket.

Next to the easy side. Break loose the sensor, go to the connector and WTF!! The sensor connectors were not pushed together!?! CRAP!!! Did I leave it disconnected when chasing the P1646 code!?! I would like to believe that when I was chasing the P1646, I know I checked that ...or maybe when I did I just left them not pushed together when I discovered the semsor was faulty.

Oh well, new upstream sensors installed, reverse order installed heat shield, expanison tank, connectors, push on hoses, started, checked all connections, codes reset, sensors functioning, Oh right, expansion tank overflow hose goes to the middle higher inboard port, NOT the outboard lower port, ready for Emission test.

While under I was checking on my suspension, less than 10k miles ago I did the Upper and Lower ball joints with URO OE replacements. Well the top boots have already split in less than 10K miles, ARGH!!! Maybe I'll track down replacement boots when I get time, but I need to get the 2005 X350 on the lift to replace the radiator, fix the fuel injector connector glued on bodges, reseal the whole intake manifold from the heads out, replace fuel filter, fix the left (driver) seat heater /thermostat, fix the midrange speakers, reset the headliner, replace the left side door fuzzy weather strips, track down the boot leak and any other surprises at 91k miles on an AJ33 engine miles.

 

Took the Duchess out for a nice drive and stopped to get a bite. It always gives me a thrill to
return and find her shining like a diamond in the setting sun.

 

I drove mine to work today & reminded myself, yet again, I really must order those short looms to the front ABS sensors so I don't get the ABS/TC/SC warnings on the dash all the time.

 

Just did a run from Virginia Beach to Charlotte via Chapel Hill and back. 23.5mpg (US gal) at 70 to 85 mpg. Ran perfectly; a/c would chill meat.

But down in NC, north of Durham and between Kannapolis and Concord on I 85, they groove the concrete, parallel to road direction -- I think for torrential rain run off (and ran into fifteen minutes of that) -- car tram lines (or at least what I think is tram lining). Really a weird feeling. The car had a wheel alignment Friday before the trip: nearly perfect, with some additional toe in added. Tires balanced the week before. Perfect, otherwise. Running nearly brand new Michelin Defenders up front and brand new Michelin Primacy in the rear. Need to do some research on tram lining in these rigs.

 

Just finished up an odyssey of my first rear wheel bearing replacement...wont bore you with the details, plenty in my thread if you want to watch me squirm. Frustrating job for me...simple, but not easy.

Also new rear brake pads and rotors (brembo branded stuff front and rear, but standard calipers, not the big brake kit).

Annnd a new set of tires, bad wheel bearing had one rear tire down to the cords. Prior owner put 225/40/18 on it and boy do these new tires ever change the ride height! I swear its 2" higher now.

Long week and a half.