Yes I've seen your post. There's a few things I'd do differently in it (particularly setting the timing sprocket bolts - use the sprocket holding tool to take up the slack in the loaded side of the chain when tightening cam sprocket bolts, otherwise it can end up being a few degrees off just due to the bolt potentially slipping the sprocket onto the tensioned/unloaded side of the chain - if that makes sense).

I actually did all timing chains, guides, and tensioners when I got the car, I got it cheap because of a rattle caused by a snapped primary guide. I used Blackonyx's very excellent guide to the job, along with the factory manual as reference, and a few odd forum threads.
I've briefly considered pulling it apart when I do the timing seals, so I can inspect a weird tick I suspect is coming from the oil pump (happened ever since I've had the car) but eh... I'd rather not touch things that I know are working at the risk of breaking more than I fix. We'll see once I get in there.

 

@ nilanium: Yes, I am aware - and I already made special reference in my thread - That I did not use this special sprocket holding tool (as I simply do not have it). I already wrote in my thread that I don't understand the hype regarding that tool - and admitted that I am possibly doing something there, which is not quite right, however I tried my best to archive the same result (regarding avoidance of slack on the loaded side), even without that special tool, and I'd say I did this successfully, as I do not have any issues. And I also mentioned that the reason as to why NOT using that special tool is possibly not an issue in my case, as I do not have VVT (Variable valve timing) on my X308. Maybe it is of more relevance to have/use this special tool, if you have VVT.

 

Finally decided to bite the bullet and change the "pilot bushing" (and who decided to call it that?) for the MB transmission electrical connection. Of course that required removing the right side cat, which was fun all by itself. Pulled the plug out and dumped a bunch of transmission fluid down my sleeve, thereby indicating that changing the bushing was overdue.
Unfortunately, when replacing the bushing, I was a little "firm" (a.k.a. stupid) and snapped the little bolt that holds it in.
So, I am now far more familiar with the inside of the transmission than I had intended to be. But, it was probably time for a filter change and some new fluid anyway. I was luckier than I deserved in that a 1/16" left-handed drill bit spun the broken part of the bolt out of the conductor plate, and the bolt from the old bushing took its place.
Now it remains to be seen if that cures the "Gearbox fault" that pops up when driving in the city on a hot day.

 

No need to remove the cat for trans plug replacement on my 99. Slightly snug but a non issue

 

Seemed to me that removing the cat was needed on my '01, so I never tried to pull the plug first. Next time around (although kind of hoping there won't BE a next time) I'll give it a go.

 

Changed the oil and did some evening cruising

Also, anyone know if these bushings are stock?

 

Yesterday and today I've been welding. Been obsverding that there is some bubling going on at the left rear door arc at the top of the sill. Yep. screwe driverwent through instantly from the C pillar steel what curves down to the sill and under that the sill was paper thin.. Very difficult place to weld and very very stupid design from the factory. Factory made pothole where you can't acces and filled it up ever moist goo. Goo has dried up and there we have it. Rust where moisture has had it's own time to eat steel. I'm not a good welder. So it will not be good looking.

 

Brandon, definitely not factory as it looks to be polyurethane. Only rubber bushings were used.

 

Vauxi.
After a trucker decided to change lanes while I was beside him, the car was in getting the left rear door skin replaced. The shop called me up and told me that they had found exactly what you described. Since they already had the car, and they were mixing the paint to match, it was reasonable for me to let them take care of it. A $600 (Canadian) bill for me to pay (insurance covered the truck damage), but the pros did a much better job than I could have. I would have been terrified at the prospect of trying to weld and form that complex curve, so kudos to you for taking it on.

 

Do look same spot from the another side. It might have bubling going on already..

 

I Drove with her 300km trip and about to drive 500km trip in next couple of days. I'm getting to turn to replace all of the front wheel support bushes. I did not like the road groove "happynes" when higher side wind is added. It is not pleasant to drive when you have to be too much alerted all the time. I'm thinking about the softest poly bushes. But while those are way stiffer than basic rubber bush. Adding more tire noise where there is too much allready, is not what I like.
I do have great memories and feel about the blue/violet soft PU bushes. They give so much improved feel. But do they make same affect to the x308 I dunno.

 

where can these be had ?
Thanks in advance

 

Just starting down this road myself. Left side is rotted out on the outside leading edge of the rear arch and you can see rust coming through under the sill. Right side has begun this process. Need to pull the front arch covers to check for rust up there and verify the sunroof drains are draining to the outside world and not into my sills. Went to a local restoration shop to ask about rust repair and the guy basically said if I sourced the parts he could do the work but its going to be thousands, not hundreds in labor, so I'll probably be learning how to do my own body work and maybe pick up a welder for the first time. Car is in too good condition virtually everywhere else to let it go.

 

New conductor plate, pressure regulator spring, and overlap valve kit (all 3) with fresh shell 134 atf and filter. Really impressive improvement in shift quality. Totally worth it ($250ish all in)

 

https://www.powerflex.co.uk/
I'm considering these..

 

Do not start welding from arc. Do start from the floor stuff. Sill and arc are difficult places to weld and everything is visible. If you got a time. Buy sheet metal in thin and thick form and practice welding there first.

 

500km trip is done. No issues except exhaust pipe might have either hole somewhere at the front or front muffler wool has burnt off completely now. I do not have stock exhaust system. Front muffler is dynomax welded x and I filled it up with steel wool and standard muffler wool to reduce waaay too loud sound. Where wool insertion reduced it very much.

 

I finally tackled my Bank 1 pre-cat oxygen sensor, aka the worst one to replace. After previously looking at the thread by Highhorse
(https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cement-195018/) I was expecting it to be a long nightmare. But it only took me about 3 hours. I 'cheated' a bit, and did not remove anything other than the plastic covers, heat shield, and the oxygen sensor itself. Removing the coolant reservoir probably would have made things easier, but I didn't want to mess with it. I was also able to remove the heat shield without using any extensions, which I initially tried, but had trouble with. I just took the ratchet with the Torx bit on it, snaked it under the hoses and other stuff, and broke the 3 little bolts loose, a few degrees at a time. Then I took the bit off of the ratchet, and used it with my fingers to completely undo them. After that, I hit the oxygen sensor thread/boss with some PB Blaster, and let it sit for about 15 minutes. It didn't want to come out after it had soaked, so I applied some gentle persuasion with a 2 foot piece of 3/4" pvc pipe on the end of the ratchet. After a few moments, it came undone.

Honestly, I would say that getting the new sensor installed was more difficult than taking the old one out. Firstly, It was a pain to get the new one in place without smearing the copper anti-seize all over my hands, hoses, etc. Everything about this job is one hand only, and the spaces are very tight. And once you do get it in place, then you need to tighten it, which was not enjoyable. Let's just say that I have a new hatred for oxygen sensor sockets, which I have never had to use before. That took me a quite a while to get done. Overall though, the most frustrating part of the job is that stupid little zip tie that holds the leads for both oxygen sensors. It's all the way down at the back of the engine in a very tight space, where you can only get one hand. Getting it cut off of the mounting point was annoying, because I don't have any long reach cutting pliers. So I had to reach all the way down there with a regular pair, and do it blindly, because my arm completely blocked the view. But putting the new one on is even worse! All I had on hand were 8" zip ties, and trying to bring both ends together over the 2 wires, blindly, with one hand buried elbow deep in the engine bay was not enjoyable. It took me a number of tries before I was able to get the 2 ends together, and pull the tie tight.

But once I finally had that tie installed, everything else was a breeze. The only issue I had was after I started the car, and I had the ABS light on, and a warning about not having traction control. I was really worried that I had knocked a connector loose somewhere, or pulled out a wire. After running the car for a few minutes, I shut it off, hooked up my scan tool, and checked for codes. Nothing came up, so I removed the scan tool, and started the car again. This time, there was no warning light or error message, which made me very happy. I'm guessing the battery had low voltage from sitting for a week plus without the car being started, so it caused the random light and error message.

 

I once wrote a thread about the X308 ABS light, that I am convinced that (apart from other issues, which can cause the ABS light to come on) one of the more likely ones is that it just lights up after disconnecting the battery, but a bit of driving will fix it.

 

Or the abs module is on the verge of needing the solder reflowed.