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Joined a little ride of the Taiwan Jaguar club today.
Normally, I am not so fond for this kind of events, and I still think it is a bit silly to drive all behind each other, but what the heck, at least you find some same minded guys who love their cars as well, not too common here.
[QUOTE=ericjansen;1661028]I remember I did this when I bought my car, and it was one of the most satisfying things I have done on the car, the leather says kind of 'thank you' once fresh. Good move![/QUOTE
I totally agree, seeing her with brand new looking leather is a real treat! I had a vision in my head of what my baby could be when I bought her. I knew it was going to be pricey and ongoing but it's a true labor of love and I have found a passion in restoring her. I don't have any local friends who are gearheads so this forum is my sanctuary for talking with like minded people. I don't always respond to a lot of posts because I am only a gearhead apprentice in training so I don't have the technical expertise to answer a lot of questions but I read all of them and enjoy the comraderie.
I don't know of anyone that makes a pre-fabricated x-pipe. It took the guys at the exhaust shop about an hour to make mine. I have no resonance at any speed. Reminds me of the sound of a ZO6 Corvette
Easy to do if not paying attention on an open road. My XJR6 seems most happy and settled cruising at around 80 which you can accidentally ease into if you aren't paying close attention.
If everything is sorted they should feel the same, especially in a VDP there was a time on the highway I was cruising at around 60 and somebody sped up and got way too close to tailgating, I gently accelerated to get out of there a bit, and could have sworn the speedo needle was vertical for a moment...
For my XJR today, simple things more or less. Got a set of NGK Iridium IX plugs in, RA said they were the desired .052 gap but they were actually .042-.044, which is correct according to the NGK site, and they only offer the basic copper ones pre gapped to .052. Couldn't be arsed to return/exchange them, so I very carefully bent the ground strap out on all of them to get them to .050-.052. The old plugs were pretty bad and out of spec, most measuring around the .035 range.
Drove around a few miles, stopped to check the warm idle vibration issue I was having, and actually got chills from how still the car was there's still a very slight vibration that can be felt with hands on the engine, and on the trunk lid when it is open, but I'll look at trims and all when it's been driven a bit and it's cooler out. I'll take the easy win for now!
Also got paid back a debt in car parts, with a pair of front subframe rearward bushings (the round ones). That mostly completes my front end partial rebuild parts pile; now I need to take care of a couple other non-car expenses, buy a press and make a spring compressor, and then do the front end work. Hopefully that takes care of the pulling and noise/vibration I've been getting. If it doesn't then I'll at least know what is fixed before I start trying to find out what isn't.
Went out and spent time replacing the shifter cable. Or rather, the end on it. The mount was completely different, and since I hadn't looked at the trans bracket, ended up ordering a standard XJ8 cable instead. but since my cable actually works fine and it's only the little ball-joint at the trans end that was frozen, I just swapped those from the two, and reassembled. Now I'm back to figuring out why I still have a gearbox fault, and no lights. My guess is that it's now something in the linear, but damned if it doesn't look just fine. I was sure it was an adjustment but I had the cable about as perfect as I thought I could get it, and it would shift through to Drive fine, and then over to the 4 (side note, anyone know if you can normally go up through 3 and 2 while sitting still and the car off? Because I can't currently, but as I rack my brain to think of it, I don't think I ever tried it with the car off before - if I'm supposed to be able to, then I have another issue somewhere ***ANSWERED BELOW***).
The park switch works fine, doesn't shift out of park without the brake on, and all that. Just no lighting up of the gears as I shift down through. So either I'm still missing on the adjustment, or I have a switch or shifter assembly issue. Right now, the battery is on a charger. I haven't driven it in two weeks, and it's too low to start the car apparently. So I can't even try firing up the car, and all that to test further.
All this, so that I can go replace my other wheel bearing so I can drive it again. Painful to not have it for my commute.
EDIT/UPDATE:
So, I found the little blurb again on the adjustment procedure as I had disassembled the switch on my desk and cleaned it off. And I realized that where it mentions the linear adjustment, is also done in Neutral. Realized I hadn't tried that, so ran back outside, ignoring the rain. I hooked the battery back up (thanks charger), and jumped inside. So I put the cable on (car was in park still), and got the collar nuts in position but loose. Left the linear bolts slightly loose as well. Well, time to put it in Neutral, I says. And wouldn't you know it, the lights flashed like normal when I did. Um, ok? So I tightened everything in place, and ran through the gears on the shifter. Again, all lights are working. So, off the jack stands, and moment of truth - the car moves. No Gearbox Fault. No engine codes. But, most importantly, IT SHIFTS! Color me happy, finally! Pulled back in, put the console back together (and wouldn't you know it, only missing one screw for the console lid?). Also, to answer the above question I had, the 2-3-4 shift does work just fine when the car isn't running. It just has to be in adjustment properly and no faults in order to do it, I guess.
So I'm not sure where exactly the fix was. The cable end obviously needed to be replaced, but when it came to the adjustment, I don't know if it was just because I had cleaned the linear switch, or if it was a combination of that, and getting the adjustment just right. Or maybe I had it right a few times, but not having cleared codes or a reset in between was throwing me off. Either way, I'm happy.
Hi Jen,
Your seats look fantastic after the treatment,what product did you use,
Take Care,
Andy[/QUOTE]
Andy, when I 1st got the car I did a good clean, condition of the leather and "attempted" to fix some dye issues on my own but I wasn't successful...lol. I paid a professional this time. They wet sanded the surface, filled in the cracks, hand mixed dye to match original color, air sprayed the dye and a clear protectant. Fantastic job by a company called "We can fix that". They have shops all over the country and will drive to you and do the work in your own driveway!
really got to drive my 02 XJR for the first time this past week. Installed new plugs, NGK Laser Platinum PFR6G-13E, new air filter and oil change with Valvoline full synthetic SYN Power.
Previous owner ran The same oil and when I had the cam covers off to change the gaskets and check the condition of the tensioners, it was so clean I decided to keep using the Valvoline. I use Mobile One in all of my other cars, but based on the Jag I wouldn't hesitate to run their full synthetic either. The NGK plugs work great as well and the engine doesn't even move while idling. I don't know how old the plugs were that were in there, but the new plugs seemed to smooth out the engine at idle.
Confirmed my order for 2 sets of exhaust cutout's for the Grand Dame.
Maybe taking a risk, but ordered from China.
Including shipping, I can buy several there for the price of one from the States, and as the valve seem sturdy, I will see how much joy or anger it is going to give me.
Will you be able to get both kits to operate off one remote Eric? I'm assuming also you'll be hard wiring it rather than using the 12v socket connector?
Had to go to my car today, as I needed something out of it...
Found out, my passenger side door was still open! It had hooked in place and was locked, but it was open enough for a few drops of water to get in. And it has been pooring here a few days. Inside though it is dry... *phew*
Erm, where is the Y pipe you need to fit it? And what diameter is it? Looks a tad too big. Iirc it was 2" on the NA engines.
I on purpose did not order one with Y-pipe, but one to weld instead (left top corner), I will be more flexible with location and size-matching.
Originally Posted by Stu 1986
Will you be able to get both kits to operate off one remote Eric? I'm assuming also you'll be hard wiring it rather than using the 12v socket connector?
Well, I love the idea of having a cable and the 12V socket connector, is called "flexibility of operation" ...
Once the stuff is in, I will need to check what is exactly possible and what not.
And of course the plan is to hard wire wherever is needed, join the 2 of them, and use one remote.
All my initial thinking was based upon using a switch, but here it is all remote operation.
Maybe it is more practical, I love reversible solutions.
04-16-2017, 03:58 AM
there was a time on the highway I was cruising at around 60 and somebody sped up and got way too close to tailgating, I gently accelerated to get out of there a bit, and could have sworn the speedo needle was vertical for a moment...
there's still a very slight vibration that can be felt with hands on the engine, and on the trunk lid when it is open, but I'll look at trims and all when it's been driven a bit and it's cooler out. I'll take the easy win for now!
[/QUOTE]
