What would it cost to have someone do my brakes?
#1
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I am contemplating paying a mechanic to replace the pads and rotors all the way around on my 2003 XJ8. I got an estimate a few months ago for the rear brakes -- was something like $360 for pads and rotors, including labor. I'm taking my car in to have the wheels balanced on Friday and will ask that mechanic for an estimate, too. I also called a guy who did work for me in the past on a different car, and he's going to get back to me with a price tomorrow.
Just wondering - what kind of numbers would be reasonable? I know I could do it myself, and I just might end up doing that, but for now I'm getting some quotes. I might just splurge, but would like to know what kind of number to expect.
Thanks.
Mike
Just wondering - what kind of numbers would be reasonable? I know I could do it myself, and I just might end up doing that, but for now I'm getting some quotes. I might just splurge, but would like to know what kind of number to expect.
Thanks.
Mike
#2
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About a month ago, I replaced all four rotors and pads on my VDP, by myself. Rotors are crossdrilled and slotted. It took me about 2,5 hours to do, and the cost was $275.-
The difference that I would pay for labor (even Indy), was about $300. Why pay double? It's a VERY easy job, and fun to boot. Three hundred bucks buys almost four tanks of gas (free gas for a month!).
The difference that I would pay for labor (even Indy), was about $300. Why pay double? It's a VERY easy job, and fun to boot. Three hundred bucks buys almost four tanks of gas (free gas for a month!).
#4
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Sometimes I just feel like letting someone else do it.
I have seen your write-up, princemarko. For those who haven't, here's the link https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ics-faq-35063/
It's a great tutorial!
I have seen your write-up, princemarko. For those who haven't, here's the link https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ics-faq-35063/
It's a great tutorial!
Last edited by OldMike; 02-26-2013 at 09:27 PM.
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King Charles (04-03-2014)
#6
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I also did my own on my XJR when I still had it. It was MUCH easier than I expected, and I'm not physically well. It took about 3 hours for me and I move VERY slowly compared to most people. That's start to finish, from finding jacks and stands to putting them away and cleaning up.
COST for ALL 4 Wheels, Rotors and Pads:
Parts Ordered from PartsGeek.com
1999 Jaguar XJR Brake Rotor Brake Price: $56.75 Core: $0.00 Qty:2 Part #: W0133-1618165
1999 Jaguar XJR Brake Pad Set Brake Price: $37.98 Core: $0.00 Qty:1 Part #: 104.03941
1999 Jaguar XJR Brake Pad Set Brake Price: $33.98 Core: $0.00 Qty:1 Part #: 104.06881
1999 Jaguar XJR Brake Rotor Brake Price: $25.98 Core: $0.00 Qty:2 Part #: BR34094
Sub Total:
$237.42
Shipping:
$9.90
Handling:
$0.00
Tax:
$0.00
Core:
$0.00
Total:
$244.32
COST for ALL 4 Wheels, Rotors and Pads:
Parts Ordered from PartsGeek.com
1999 Jaguar XJR Brake Rotor Brake Price: $56.75 Core: $0.00 Qty:2 Part #: W0133-1618165
1999 Jaguar XJR Brake Pad Set Brake Price: $37.98 Core: $0.00 Qty:1 Part #: 104.03941
1999 Jaguar XJR Brake Pad Set Brake Price: $33.98 Core: $0.00 Qty:1 Part #: 104.06881
1999 Jaguar XJR Brake Rotor Brake Price: $25.98 Core: $0.00 Qty:2 Part #: BR34094
Sub Total:
$237.42
Shipping:
$9.90
Handling:
$0.00
Tax:
$0.00
Core:
$0.00
Total:
$244.32
#7
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SuperSport - thanks for the shopping list. I looked at parts geek and saw two rotors with the same part number, one Brembo and one not! I don't have an "R" so my rotors and pads would be different than yours but you gave me a great starting point.
Danielsland -- could you please let me know where you got your pads and rotors?
My stupid question of the day -- do I need to spend nearly $100 per rotor or would it be ok to get the "el cheapos?"
I got my first quote today -- $750 for parts and labor, will discount to $700 if I order all parts at the same time! WHAT? No thanks, just order one piece at a time, I don't want you to order them all at the same time! I didn't ask what parts they wanted to order, but I might do that tomorrow.
Would I be committing a major sin if I just replaced the pads? What criteria would you use to decide if the rotors need replacing? Or is it just what should be done when the pads are replaced? I don't feel any warping and there's no metal on metal noise. I haven't inspected them, but I'd guess they look ok. Would I be cutting a corner that I don't want to cut?
Danielsland -- could you please let me know where you got your pads and rotors?
My stupid question of the day -- do I need to spend nearly $100 per rotor or would it be ok to get the "el cheapos?"
I got my first quote today -- $750 for parts and labor, will discount to $700 if I order all parts at the same time! WHAT? No thanks, just order one piece at a time, I don't want you to order them all at the same time! I didn't ask what parts they wanted to order, but I might do that tomorrow.
Would I be committing a major sin if I just replaced the pads? What criteria would you use to decide if the rotors need replacing? Or is it just what should be done when the pads are replaced? I don't feel any warping and there's no metal on metal noise. I haven't inspected them, but I'd guess they look ok. Would I be cutting a corner that I don't want to cut?
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#8
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SuperSport - thanks for the shopping list. I looked at parts geek and saw two rotors with the same part number, one Brembo and one not! I don't have an "R" so my rotors and pads would be different than yours but you gave me a great starting point.
Danielsland -- could you please let me know where you got your pads and rotors?
My stupid question of the day -- do I need to spend nearly $100 per rotor or would it be ok to get the "el cheapos?"
I got my first quote today -- $750 for parts and labor, will discount to $700 if I order all parts at the same time! WHAT? No thanks, just order one piece at a time, I don't want you to order them all at the same time! I didn't ask what parts they wanted to order, but I might do that tomorrow.
Would I be committing a major sin if I just replaced the pads? What criteria would you use to decide if the rotors need replacing? Or is it just what should be done when the pads are replaced? I don't feel any warping and there's no metal on metal noise. I haven't inspected them, but I'd guess they look ok. Would I be cutting a corner that I don't want to cut?
Danielsland -- could you please let me know where you got your pads and rotors?
My stupid question of the day -- do I need to spend nearly $100 per rotor or would it be ok to get the "el cheapos?"
I got my first quote today -- $750 for parts and labor, will discount to $700 if I order all parts at the same time! WHAT? No thanks, just order one piece at a time, I don't want you to order them all at the same time! I didn't ask what parts they wanted to order, but I might do that tomorrow.
Would I be committing a major sin if I just replaced the pads? What criteria would you use to decide if the rotors need replacing? Or is it just what should be done when the pads are replaced? I don't feel any warping and there's no metal on metal noise. I haven't inspected them, but I'd guess they look ok. Would I be cutting a corner that I don't want to cut?
The rotors can usually be turned, but in my case, I figured the $15-20 spent on turning each rotor was better spent on new metal. I know I may get flamed for buying cheap discs and pads, but I've found that I don't get much more mileage out of expensive brakes than I do out of cheap ones. And I rarely put super tough pads on because they eat up the rotors quickly. I'd rather put good rotors and softer pads and change them more often since expensive rotors are quite expensive. (Down side is more dust on wheels)
That's just my two cents, and I'm sure I'll get hammered for them, but that's what I do. Cheap brakes, and change them every 30-60k miles, or when needed... I've easily gotten 40k +
Please listen to other's posts and then make an informed decision that's right for you.
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OldMike (02-27-2013)
#9
#10
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I purchased my drilled and slotted rotors and pads from an Ebay seller "Cbrakes", from Costa Mesa, CA. CA tax + shipping = $275.-
Brakes feel great, and I like the rotors a LOT. It was VERY simple, and straight forward swap. I also got the full set for my W220 from them. I am very satisfied with the purchase, and the performance of the brakes on both cars. To do TWO cars for a little over $500 is CHEAP! The quality of the parts is NOT "el cheapo". In fact I know that this outfit manufactures them, and sells to the retailers that add their margin on the top.
Whenever I can, I try to eliminate the middle man.
The bonus: my front wheels don't get nearly as dusty as they did before!
Brakes feel great, and I like the rotors a LOT. It was VERY simple, and straight forward swap. I also got the full set for my W220 from them. I am very satisfied with the purchase, and the performance of the brakes on both cars. To do TWO cars for a little over $500 is CHEAP! The quality of the parts is NOT "el cheapo". In fact I know that this outfit manufactures them, and sells to the retailers that add their margin on the top.
Whenever I can, I try to eliminate the middle man.
The bonus: my front wheels don't get nearly as dusty as they did before!
#11
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Thanks for you post, you and I think a lot alike on this issue. In fact, I was thinking about going the extreme el cheapo route and only changing out the pads. I've done that a number of times on other cars without any problems, but I'm always open to learning! Thanks again.
I purchased my drilled and slotted rotors and pads from an Ebay seller "Cbrakes", from Costa Mesa, CA. CA tax + shipping = $275.-
Brakes feel great, and I like the rotors a LOT. It was VERY simple, and straight forward swap. I also got the full set for my W220 from them. I am very satisfied with the purchase, and the performance of the brakes on both cars. To do TWO cars for a little over $500 is CHEAP! The quality of the parts is NOT "el cheapo". In fact I know that this outfit manufactures them, and sells to the retailers that add their margin on the top.
Whenever I can, I try to eliminate the middle man.
The bonus: my front wheels don't get nearly as dusty as they did before!
Brakes feel great, and I like the rotors a LOT. It was VERY simple, and straight forward swap. I also got the full set for my W220 from them. I am very satisfied with the purchase, and the performance of the brakes on both cars. To do TWO cars for a little over $500 is CHEAP! The quality of the parts is NOT "el cheapo". In fact I know that this outfit manufactures them, and sells to the retailers that add their margin on the top.
Whenever I can, I try to eliminate the middle man.
The bonus: my front wheels don't get nearly as dusty as they did before!
#12
#13
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When you are getting the wheels balanced take a good look at the rotors. If they don't show any signs of scoring and there is no ridge at the outer edge and you are not feeling any pulsing under heavy braking then you can change only the pads.
You won't be able to see the inside rotor surface but if the outsides are fine then the insides are probably also fine. I would recommend that you buy high quality pads all around. A small savings on pads is not worth dealing with squeals, excessive brake dust on the rims and longer stopping distances
You won't be able to see the inside rotor surface but if the outsides are fine then the insides are probably also fine. I would recommend that you buy high quality pads all around. A small savings on pads is not worth dealing with squeals, excessive brake dust on the rims and longer stopping distances
#14
#15
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Here in the UK its not uncommon to only change pads if required and leave the discs ( rotors ) alone if all is well ( no scoring, ridges / lips and within tolerances specified )
I've had pads only done many times and generally, pads should last perhaps 2-3 sets to a set of rotors. Pads are designed to be the weak / wear point and they are the cheapest consumables after all.
As far as I know, we don't go in much for turning discs / rotors here in the UK......They either need replaced or they don't, but each to their own
I've only ever used OEM discs / pads on my Audi and although expensive the just last and last, well worth the money IMO.
#16
#17
#18
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Winks -- when you say "real Jaguar parts," what do you mean? Did you buy them from a Jaguar dealership?
Also, $140-$145 labor is less than 2 hours at my shop's $75/hr rate, which is what I'd expect. Can't wait to see what he quotes me on Friday. There's always the chance that I'll let him do if doesn't go overboard on the quote.
Thanks to Rocklandjag for suggesting that I take a look at the rotors -- I'll do that.
I'm leaning toward a pad-only replacement this weekend -- done plenty of those, shouldn't take me but an hour or so. The more I think about it, there's no reason to pay $700 for a $250 job when I can spend the time "bonding" with my car in the garage!
Also, $140-$145 labor is less than 2 hours at my shop's $75/hr rate, which is what I'd expect. Can't wait to see what he quotes me on Friday. There's always the chance that I'll let him do if doesn't go overboard on the quote.
Thanks to Rocklandjag for suggesting that I take a look at the rotors -- I'll do that.
I'm leaning toward a pad-only replacement this weekend -- done plenty of those, shouldn't take me but an hour or so. The more I think about it, there's no reason to pay $700 for a $250 job when I can spend the time "bonding" with my car in the garage!
#19