I know I have to get my Code Scanner on it, but it is stuck away in the garage behind one of my race cars and I have to move a ton of stuff out of the way to get to it. My 2003 X308 XJR has done something odd and I hope someone can give me a clue as to what to look for.


In Ontario Canada, the winter weather is terrible and I love this car so much, it never goes out in the snow, so it sits for long times through the winter. I do go out and start it up every so often through the winter and bring it up to temps, just to make sure everything stays lubricated and supple. Anyways, 2 weeks ago I went out to fire up the car and the battery was down and it wouldn't go, just clicked and did all kinds of odd electrical attempts to move stuff and turn stuff on. It has happened before, so I put it on a charger and walked away for a while. Went back a couple of hours later and the car started right up. I let it run for about 30 minutes, cycled the ac on and off to make sure that worked and then shut the car off.


This past weekend, the weather was great, so I went out and wanted to wash the car and get it all cleaned up for spring. Again, low battery and all I got was clicks, so I put it on a charger again and the battery wouldn't take a charge. Took the battery to the local vendor that I bought it from and they said that the battery was bad and gave me a new one that was fully charged. I installed it and cranked the car over.... and over.... and over. Nothing it wouldn't fire. Not even a pop or burble. Read on websites possible issues and did some diagnostic stuff. Put some fuel down the air inlet and cranked and it started right up then shut off again as it ran out of fuel. Had my son turn the key to the various positions while I listened in the tank and nothing, no hum from the pump. Had him do it again while I listened to the injectors and again no clicks from them.


I checked all the fuses and relays and they are good. Swapped the relays around and no difference. So I have eliminated all of those. When I get a chance I am going to direct feed the pumps to see if they work with power and ground separate of the cars systems.


Now the big question, the car only has an easy 42,000 kms on it. Do the pumps really fail without warning like this? Is there something else I should look at? Am I missing something obvious?


Any help would be appreciated as I would hate to pull things apart and not need to.


Thanks,


Eric

 

It certainly sounds like a pump failure. I'm not sure if you have one pump or two but I think two on all 4.0L engines. If you have two you can pull the relay on the primary and it should start on the secondary.

There are a lot of pump failures reported on cars that are not used much in the winter, and it seems to be age related as much as mileage.

 

XJR has two pumps. Try swapping the fuel pump relays again after cleaning with contact cleaner, sometimes electrical connectors get corroded and oxidized. Also try starting it with your second key: had that problem 18 months ago, quit starting with one of the keys; had to get both reprogrammed.

Might also check the fuel system immobilizer in the passenger footwell.

Also, is the battery cable tight?

 

+1 on the immobilizer. Sudden failures to start is usually this problem.
Vector

 

Last night I jumpered both of the fuel pumps, primary and secondary, across the relay connection and tried to start the car and still nothing. How quiet are the pumps? When I turn the key I hear a slight humming from the engine compartment area for about 3 seconds but then nothing. reminds me of the fuel pumps in my race cars as to timing and duration, but I shouldn't be hearing it from the front of the car should I? What could this noise be if not the fuel pumps? Man I hate the fact that I have been racing cars for almost 30 years and have lost a ton of hearing. Why didn't I start wearing earplugs earlier?


I also looked in both footwells for the immobilizer and couldn't find it. Anyone give me better directions as to where it is? Did they relocate it on the 2003 as there are no holes or little boxes with buttons on them anywhere within reach?


I am going to put a scan tool on it tonight to see what codes get thrown up and try the turn the key to on and not start it for 20 minutes thing to see if the key gets reprogrammed.


Eric

 

The immobilzer is behind the right passenger front footwell bulkhead.

You will have to pull the bulkhead cover away. If you don't have one, pull down the Drver's Manual from the stickies; it will show a drawing.

 

Both of the pumps are in the fuel tank behind the rear seat, you should be able to hear one running. The second only kicks in above 3000 RPM.

(Although I seem to remember reading that the second pump cycles on start up to let the ECU know they are both working)
Vector

 

I bought a new code scanner and hooked it up. First scan showed voltage at 12.1 and the only code was a P1641 that said secondary fuel pump relay. Hooked up a jumper battery and brought battery voltage to 13.2 volts and tried to start again. Nothing. Now when I check on a site with Jaguar codes, 1641 reads out as fuel pump circuit wiring. I guess I need to start chasing wires..... Oh boy this will be fun.
Eric

 

Reset the immobilizer. Do it now!

 

How do I reset the immobilizer? I have read about 5 different ways and none directly refer to an XJS. Could someone link the correct thread or process?

Eric

 

WTF!

XJS, WHAT? This is the XJ8 X308 forum. You said you had an 03 XJR. What ^^^^ing car are we trying to fix?

 

Sorry, it's a 2003 308 XJR. I am typing on my phone and it autocorrected.

I hate auto correct.

Eric

 

I hat it two.
Vector

 

Roger, hate autocorrect. You have to pull the plastic cover off the right bulkhead to get at the immobilizer. Look in the Handbook section of the stickies for the Drivers Handbook.

 

So I just traced the circuits and no matter how I hard booted the computer, reset the fuel pump shutoff, nothing. No power across the relays and no power at the pump. I checked the links to the Jaguar test protocol and I totally agree that it's the Immobilizer. They even say the symptom is car cranks without fuel pumps coming on. Only bad thing is that it can only be reset at the dealership. Now I have to tow it there and pay them to reset it.

A few hundred bucks....

Eric

 

Are we talking about the impact sensing inertia switch that shuts down the fuel system in an accident or the security system immobilizer?

I know you can reset the inertia/impact sensor by simply pushing the button located on the right side of the dash behind an access panel.

See images below for the inertia switch location for US cars, it may be on the left side for right hand drive cars.
Vector

 

I am talking about the immobilizer/ security system, not the inertia fuel shutoff. The first system they showed of a security system issue was that the car crank, everything works but the pumps won't come on as they won't get a signal. The corrective action stated is to use dealer equipment to reboot.

Eric

 

No, no. You need to reset the switch Vector is showing you. I Am fairly sure it won't crank if the security module needs to be reset (by the dealer or independent shop with the right software).

A search will show occasions where a battery failure causes the immob to cut off fuel just like an accident.

 

I reset the pump shut off and double checked it. It's not the fuel pump shut off. I then searched the Jaguar electronic system breakdown and found the Immobilizer/ Security System area under electronic control modules. In there I found a series of symptoms for an Immobilizer that needs to be reset and the first symptom was fuel pump shut of but car still cranks

We will see what Jag says.

Eric

 

Thanks for the clarification. The inertia switch is usually the correct answer to this no start condition, that is why we all are jumping on it.

For anyone who finds this thread in the future:

I did some quick web research and I think you may be right about the security immobilizer being the problem, and it can only be reset by the dealer.

Let us know how it turns out.
Vector