Hey guys: thanks for any quick input you can give me. I've also taken counsel from past such "should I do this?" posts.

I just looked at a clean-as-a-whistle 1998 XJ8 with 93K on the clock. There are no repair papers, but it was serviced locally and info can be gotten from there I am sure. The tensioners have NOT been done, neither has the transmission been serviced. Same owner for 10 years. The headliner is beginning to droop and the auto-dim mirror is on its way out. I did not hear the car start from cold, but it starts perfectly warm, idles quiet as lamb, and drives smooth as silk. The undercarriage looks like new. It would replace...

...my '94 XJ40 with 128K on the clock and, except for some creeping rust, is well-sorted with most of the biggies (i.e. differential, steering rack, etc.) either fixed or in good shape. The '98 would be a big step forward aesthetically and in overall condition of the car; but I'm hesitant about stepping away from a good car into a car that will be a land mine of future problems.

Do you have any encouragement or words of wisdom for me?

Thank!
Scott

 

How much? I am guessing you know how to do most of the work yourself: but parts, as you are aware, are not cheap.

Just finishing up a 2001 XJ8 that had 63k, like new and had recent 60 K service and oil change by the local dealer. Still,


Tensioners: about $150 plus gaskets. $1330 for an Indy to do just the secondaries.

Front pads and rotors - $350

front shocks - $190 plus upper shock mount bushings - $55 - 88

sway bar bushings - $20

rear shocks and bushings $190

transmission - lots if you go for a new pan with filter.

Water pump and thermostat (assumes no leaks afterwards, hell of an assumption!) $90

New belt - $99; new belt tensioner - $112 (the 15 mm bolt is weakened by age)

Biggest problem I have found is that due to age, the fasteners are brittle, locked in . . .

In the final stages of redoing the mechanics on a cherry 2001 - shocked at the difficulty in removing old bits (check out the Youtube of the guy changing his transmission fluid on an XK).

Plugs - $80

Still, love it (but reminded by someone on this forum, that when you have spent all your money, you still have an old car!).

Another consideration that we face (even garaged, CarFax tells me my car spent six years in Dayton Ohio) unlike other members from Ca, Fl, and Tx, our cars are northern tier driven in slush and snow, and that takes a toll.

Wonder what others think.

 

I just had my jag tensions done, & while i had it apart put in new water pump recharge aircndition and change anti freeze I have 82000 miles on my xj8(2000)
and now it drives like anew jag plus when I drive it down the street someone is always giving the high five, parts cost me $1400 but now the jag is in tiptop condiion and when you consider that to get a car in the same class of a jag, I would have to pay over $90000 IT WAS WELL WORTH IT TO

 

Do it.

 

You'd be looking at tensioners and transmission on any '98 regardless of history unless there was absolute proof they'd just been done.

If the exchange deal is good, it drives well and everything works, it's got to be a good bet.

Graham

 

Thanks, guys. This really helps. I'm really wrestling with this one because once it was sorted with a little preventative maintenance, this really could be the car I drive for the next 5 years! The owner is asking on the high side of what KBB and Nada says would be a reasonable retail price - and in many respects, rightly so, because the car is nice and clean; but I would immediately need to sink at least another grand into the thing for my own peace of mind - to say nothing of whatever normal stuff might come along as Jim pointed out. All of the sudden I will have dramatically overpaid for a car I would have trouble turning around and selling for half what I have into it AND I would still need to try and well the XJ40. Not necessarily a huge market there.

Maybe I'm being a wuss. I'm torn. The car is even the right color...

Scott

 

You're not being a wuss, it's smart to take your time and think it through.

Might consider spending the extra money that you'd expect to sink into the 98 and get a new car with the work already done.

 

I love my 98 VDP, and I will love it to the death (mine, or its!). I would do it without hesitation. BUT........

All immediate updates/repairs need to be deducted from the buying price. And when I'm buying, I am quoting RETAIL prices on repairs/updates. I am offering a tad better than wholesale, minus retail prices for upgrades. That's the ONLY way I do business.

These cars are VERY SOFT on the US market. Make him an offer he can not refuse, and then get busy upgrading the thing yourself.

 

Updates/repairs need to be taken in consideration when negotiating price but certainly not deducted at 100% of retail price.

With your logic, on many used cars, the seller will have to give money to the buyer. When was the last time you saw that happening?

 

It seems like logic (or wisdom?) itself is making this decision for me. What I feel like I should offer for the car given what will need to go into it soon would sound insulting considering what the owner is asking for it. And, truth is, even what he's asking for it would only buy a piece of cr*p if it were any other car at that price! This is a nice car. I think he will probably get his price or near to it, and he should. Heck, I would try to. But the person who buys it, although getting an initial "catch" of a car for the price, will end up shelling out bucks not too long from now; or will end up destroying the car if those tensioners aren't done. I think my problem is, I know too much. And to OldMike's point, I hadn't really intended on buying such an expensive car at this time. This is just one I happened to notice.

Stink. This may be the one that gets away...

I really do appreciate the opportunity to work this out in 'community.' Great people, Jaguar owners.

Cheers,
Scott

 

Values of XJ8s are "soft" compared to Kelly blue book. Manheim auto auction indicates an auction value (MMR) of $2925 for an above average car with approximately 61k miles. I'm not sure what the owner is asking but in the car biz MMR is a good indicator of the car's true wholesale price. The "real" blue book value of the car you are looking at is $3495 with trade-in value of $2800. I don't know what he is asking for it, but that would be my starting point to negotiate.

As the fellow members pointed out already these are not least expensive models to maintain and/or repair. Also, a much more complex car than your XJ40.

Is the X308 better? It's faster, has more features and looks great. But the XJ40 is also a great looking car that you already know... I think at this point the decision is up to you.

 

I sure can relate to that! I was looking at an '04 XJ8 that looked real nice, not because I needed it, but because I just happened to "see" it. I made an offer, the seller made a counter-offer, I passed.

All things happen for a reason!

 

Thanks guys. I passed, and kind of can't believe that I did... But I do know that that when the time is right the right car will come along - and that I have friends out there who will help me recognize it. Thanks again!!
Scott

 

UPDATE: so, taking everybody's advice I more or less walked away but in so doing was invited to make an offer, which I did - a full $1400 lower than was the owner was asking. He accepted. So now I'm back to worrying about tensioners and transmissions!

Here are my two remaining questions I hope somebody will quickly help me with:
1) Are just doing the upper tensioners "good enough" or - really - should the lower ones be done too?

2) If I do a proper fluid and filter change on a transmission that is so far so good, are the odds in my favor to get much more life out of it? Or should I immediately begin saving for a rebuild?

Thank you!!
Scott

 

Scott,

Upper tensioners are the 'must do' if you're looking to save on parts cost but, doing the work yourself, you may as well do both for the extra cost involved and sleep easy at night.

As for transmissions, a lot more owners have good luck than bad .........

Graham

 

Secondaries are the only ones that will kill your motor as far as have seen. Lowers would be great but not urgent and add considerably to the cost and time.

Your gonna love this car mark my words.

Tranny? Crapshoot- drive it and save for a rebuilt unit.

 

By the way, I am also a native of Neenah, WI so that should add to my credibility.

 

If you don't mind me asking, what did you end up paying?

 

Same deal here/ 1999 x308 taking into account services. Loved the car,paid the full retail and just did it all. Result,overpriced beautiful to drive reliable car that will probably see me out, New tensioners are so much better than original '98 ones. So as far as resale price,who cares!

 

Congrats on the purchase -- with the help of this forum, you'll get many years of fun out that new car!