X308 door making very loud crack when opened or closed!!
#1
X308 door making very loud crack when opened or closed!!
Guys,
I am having an issue with the door and was hoping that
someone had experience with this issue. When I open or
close the door, at the midpoint of the range of motion,
there is a very loud crack that emanates from within the
door. It almost seems like it occurs at the point where the
door is supposed to stay open on its own.
I have no experience taking the doors apart on my 2002 XJR
but have taken them apart on the 97 X300 and countless 88
XJ40's. These cars had different issues to fix and I have
never experienced this loud crack before. It sounds like a
gun is going off at times in areas with a good echo!!
Anyways, has anyone seen this before? If so, what is the
best way to fix it? I want to make sure that I can repair
this before something even more troubling happens to my door!
Thanks in advance for any help!
Corey
I am having an issue with the door and was hoping that
someone had experience with this issue. When I open or
close the door, at the midpoint of the range of motion,
there is a very loud crack that emanates from within the
door. It almost seems like it occurs at the point where the
door is supposed to stay open on its own.
I have no experience taking the doors apart on my 2002 XJR
but have taken them apart on the 97 X300 and countless 88
XJ40's. These cars had different issues to fix and I have
never experienced this loud crack before. It sounds like a
gun is going off at times in areas with a good echo!!
Anyways, has anyone seen this before? If so, what is the
best way to fix it? I want to make sure that I can repair
this before something even more troubling happens to my door!
Thanks in advance for any help!
Corey
#2
Door Hinge Cracking
cschaul - I just went through a similar situation with my XKR, which probably has the same door hinge configuration. You have a lower and upper hinge and a check arm between the two. There are two small nuts securing the check arm to the door (somewhat recessed). Check the tightness of these two small nuts. Mine sounded like metal popping against metal, after tightening - no problem.
#3
cschaul - I just went through a similar situation with my XKR, which probably has the same door hinge configuration. You have a lower and upper hinge and a check arm between the two. There are two small nuts securing the check arm to the door (somewhat recessed). Check the tightness of these two small nuts. Mine sounded like metal popping against metal, after tightening - no problem.
#4
#5
It seems like I am going to have to take the door apart tomorrow and try to fix this thing. Did anyone actually accomplish fixing it without welding in a new piece? I am hoping that mine has deteriorated shy of total failure! I am thinking that I do not want to go through the process of finding a place to weld it.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#6
It seems like I am going to have to take the door apart tomorrow and try to fix this thing. Did anyone actually accomplish fixing it without welding in a new piece? I am hoping that mine has deteriorated shy of total failure! I am thinking that I do not want to go through the process of finding a place to weld it.
Thanks!
Thanks!
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#8
#9
Well the washer fix worked! Thank god for this forum! Did you guys have issues losing the nuts in the door crevices/spaces? I lost two nuts plus a socket into the dark abyss and was able to recover the nuts but I fear the socket is lost forever. It seems like a pretty poor design of not only the strap but the space in the door where things can fall into and never be recovered. Regardless, I am just thankful to not sound like I am shooting a gun everytime I open the door!
#10
#11
#12
Update- remember that cracked assembly? And how I thought it'd be ok?
Wrong.
It snapped this week. I robbed the one from the left rear door to keep the drivers door working ok until I get another one. Also, one of the nuts was loose, so use Loctite, or like me, put Nylock nuts in there.
Wrong.
It snapped this week. I robbed the one from the left rear door to keep the drivers door working ok until I get another one. Also, one of the nuts was loose, so use Loctite, or like me, put Nylock nuts in there.
Last edited by avt007; 05-27-2011 at 09:39 PM.
#13
more info please ... in the middle of the job
There is a pin at the nose of the checkstrap that goes through the A pillar bracket.
The pin seems to have a screwdriver slot.
But ... it does not seem to want to turn.
Is it in fact normal thread? Reverse thread? Press fit?
JTIS is completely silent on removing the bracket from the strap.
BTW, the bag says "Made in Germany". Well, standards must have really taken a nosedive. Especially for what these things cost.
The pin seems to have a screwdriver slot.
But ... it does not seem to want to turn.
Is it in fact normal thread? Reverse thread? Press fit?
JTIS is completely silent on removing the bracket from the strap.
BTW, the bag says "Made in Germany". Well, standards must have really taken a nosedive. Especially for what these things cost.
#15
A pillar bracket pin removal
Removing the pin is not a problem.
Ignore the fact that it has a screwdriver slot. The shaft is not threaded or splined.
It presses out with light pressure using a c-clamp and small socket to make a recess for the head.
Once the threaded end is flush with the face of the bracket, pull on the head at the other end and the pin will come out the rest of the way.
With the arm removed, a bolt and nut with a stack of reinforcing washers is a dandy way to pull the metal back into alignment. Just put a couple of washers on each side of the sheetmetal and tighten the bolt to flatten the sheetmetal that has been deformed.
Ignore the fact that it has a screwdriver slot. The shaft is not threaded or splined.
It presses out with light pressure using a c-clamp and small socket to make a recess for the head.
Once the threaded end is flush with the face of the bracket, pull on the head at the other end and the pin will come out the rest of the way.
With the arm removed, a bolt and nut with a stack of reinforcing washers is a dandy way to pull the metal back into alignment. Just put a couple of washers on each side of the sheetmetal and tighten the bolt to flatten the sheetmetal that has been deformed.
Last edited by plums; 10-05-2011 at 05:31 AM.
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