Earlier got the code C1095. Just changed the whole pump with a functional used one. Still after the replacement I get the same code C1095 although via maxicom scanner i have attempted multiple times to erase the code.. it re-appears.
Could the reason be that the car needs programming to recognise the new-used pump? Or does it need some time to recognise the new pump?


Any advice from anyone that has replaced faulty module with a used one would be really appreciated. THank you .

 

No. There is failure in the new unit too. Powers and grounds are good at the module ? Just open the module and you will see the solder joints state.

 

I want to clarify a little bit what Vauxi is meaning by the solder joints.

This is the power and ground side of the ABS module.


Sorry for the blurry photo.

This is the opposite side of the module where I circled it in the above photo. You need to *VERY CAREFULLY* drill 2 small holes to access the circuit board. Inside where those 2 little nubs are at, you just need to have a soldering iron and reflow the solder. Technically one or both of those pins are no longer soldered to the circuit board and that’s what’s causing your ABS dilemma.

BTW, what ever happened to your petrol tank dilemma? You never posted back in your thread what you did with your rusty tank.

 

The electronic part of the system you need is JLM20129 (X100 to VIN 01810) EXCEPT TRACTION CONTROL-5 pipes (6 valve)
The case of the ABS control unit will have LJA2210BH written on it.
This NOT the Jaguar part number.
The Jaguar part number is JLM20129 as described in the JEPC.

Sometimes the part must be configured to the CAN bus if the INSTPK display says INCORRECT PART FITTED.

If the INSTPK does not show that display, it is likely ready to go and no CONFIG is required.

VAUXI and ADDICTED2BOOST are probably on the right trail with the solder joints.

 

Thank you very much all of you. Will work on it and will get back to you with updates!

 

updated the tank post, check it

 

Instead of measuring and drilling holes exactly to the correct spots and then trying to seal it good i've done many of these modules resolder by sawing it along the seam around the module and opening the whole lid of. Doing it by this way it is possible to solder every through solder joints on the pcb. I've seen broken ones on the sensor pinns too. And this is way easier method too. To put the lid back. All you have to do is smear a bit thick bead of good glue to the sawed seam and leave module upside down overnight. Maybe put some books etc top of it to give little bit more pressure. Worked every time and no water has got in to them yet.

 

Many thanks for the guidance all of you!! ... repaired it and just assembled it back and the ABS Light disappeared!! Also via diagnostic tool c1095 does not came up anymore )
here is the final pic of the assembled "repaired" pump

 

If I am getting the persistent "Incorrect part installed" message,even though my original ABS module is installed and has been "rebuilt/repaired", should a shop be able to do a configuration if that is the problem?

My system seemed to be fine for a month after re-installing the repaired module. Then it want berzerk again and all the lights showed up. I have been trying different things like driving X miles to get a "recovery", etc. Nothing helps. The local Jag specialist shop said they couldn't do anything because the module wasn't communicating with the ECM. OK...so I not only had the module gone through, I had the ECM "repaired/tested". Lights persist. I have not gone back to the Jag shop yet.

THEN...I found a working ABS assembly with a rebuilt module still sealed, the pump, and the valve body. I think I want to swap the entire assembly and try again. It's the exact same module and pump. I'm not sure how to go about the swap, though. Just 4 bolts, the (5?) brake lines, and the main CAN connector if I remember, but I don't want any surprises. I think it would be easier than crushing my hands R&R the module again.

So, if I do the swap, WILL IT NEED TO BE CONFIGURED?

I have not found a tutorial on this, but sure would like one.

Ken

 

With exatly same numbers on the new unit, no just plug it in. But as you know you definetly should go open the lid of the new one and solder them all now when it is on the table. As always. Fault code read and remove from the whole car is good practice when control module has been answering wrong to the cars calls.

You need to opwn the first brake pipe holder at the top of the chassis rail. Do not take off the pipes from the hydraulic unit. Disconnect the both connectors. Open the module torx bolts. Then lift up the whole unit with the bracket from rubber holders. Rise and tilt the module end down by bendindg the brake pipes as little as possible so much that you can slide the module out. Carry out the solder repair or send it to be repaired. Install is reverse of taking of. I'm sure there is better guide than my writing but this is from the memory..

 

If the ABS module sits UNPOWERED for a length of time, the capacitors seem to discharge and the module 'forgets' it's original configuration.

A simple 'configuration' will get it working on the CAN bus again.

I have repaired a few modules years ago and set them aside for when I need one. After years of sitting they always need configuring.
If I install one after sitting a few weeks, it works fine upon installation without needing to be configured.

 

I never thought of this, but we are talking about capacitors from the 1990s. :O

Please refresh me (us) on how the new configuration is done. I assume it does not just happen with starts and driving.

Ken

 

WDS or IDS. Start a 'session'. Enter the VIN.
Go to SETUP and CONFIGURATION

Go to antilock brake system.

Go to CONFIGURE MODULE.

DONE