Looking to finally join the club.

I have two XJ8's that I am looking at.

One is a 2000 with 47,000 miles. Price is 5k.
The other is 2003 with 70,000 miles. Price is 7500.

I know the timing chain and nikasil issues. Wondering about transmission and suspension issues on either of these cars.

Please let me know your thoughts and what you consider to be the best buy. Both cars are in pristine shape.

 

Hmmm, difficult decision, both seem like desirable options.

A 2000 in pristine condition with 47K miles for $5K sounds like a true bargain.

And a 2003 in pristine condition with 70,000 miles for $7,500 is also a decent buy.

I would say that the 2003/80,000 mile car has a higher transmission risk,(slightly) but it has the later timing chain tensioners issue covered. .

The 2000/47,000 mile car has less of a transmission risk (slightly), but has the tensioner issue that should be addressed (sometime soonish).

As for suspension and other bushings/couplings issues, they both are probably equally prone to needing attention due to age.

Maybe the most important thing in these cases would be documented maintenance history?.

Bottom line, hey you couldn't go wrong with either............may be a case of body-color preference !

Will be interesting to learn what you decide.


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Thanks for the reply Carnival kid.

I thought the transmission was better on the 03. I guess not. The 2000 has nikasil. It was manufactured in March 2000.

The 2003 was manufactured in July 2002. The vin is F59- - - . it seems to fall outside of potential trans issues according to a helpful guide I found on this forum (attached).

Both have really good service records. The 2000 had two owners, while the 03 had one.

The body color on the 2000 is beautiful. I have someone looking into timing chain. At a mechanic, it is $1,800. I also need new wheel bearings on 2000. Headliner on the 2000 is held up by pins.

 

2003 will have the 4.2 chain setup, oil pump, steel sleeves. All the latest modules, all that good stuff. I have a very, very late 02 XKR 'R Performance coupe that is holding together very well at 140k. I had it since 38k. Considering my engine number, vin and build date, I ride along with the 03 guys in the XJ world. Of course, took the valve cover off to be safe years ago and found the 4.2 setup, with the oil pump that has the chain lube pipes. Some physical components have gone, like the diff, shocks, front suspension, things like that. Modules, electrical...anything like that has been flawless (minus an alternator and batteries, of course). My VIN is about 150 short of the last 4.0 XK- she is very, very late. I appreciate having a late model 4.0 - I think they did a great job cleaning everything up before they changed it to 4.2.

I grabbed a 2000 VDP SC with a ton of miles, one owner, south car no rust with about 170k a year ago. Got about 183k now, took a year to get it road trip worthy. It has had its fair share replaced before I got it, but still needed more. This is an early 2000 with Nikasil. Very, VERY strong engine after getting everything right (yes, fuel pumps too) minus the oil consumption. Trying to find the right oil for it right now. Been through a rear main, valve cover mesh filters. No breather leaks. Not sucking oil through the intake anymore. Transmission is fine after replacing the electrics board with some later 236.14 oil. This car has had some flops. Electrics in partciular - I missed a lot of TSB's with my 02, but this thing....i didnt miss SQUAT! Due to motorcarman's 9 zillion PDF's, I found out there were some LED bulbs in the switchpack that are designed from the factory to burn your fingerprints off. I guess that is why the lights were missing out of it. And a lot of other things that were shoddy. I didn't deal with this when I bought the low mileage XK. Not as many hands touched it. I'm running into all kind of new issues I've never seen at the shop, but it is manageable. That fuel regulator thing that I see showing up lately was a nightmare, for the SC cars anyways. I couldn't find the assembly and didn't want to go used when I knew the regulator was a new Denso on the non compatible superceded part. When you go to order it, it is for the 4.2 cars. So that turned creative real fast. Total pro's and con's on both ends for you, no bias at all.

The transmissions are a major stopping point for me with the N/A cars, nevermind the power. I much prefer the Merc W5A580. Who cares - you're going to be dealing with it anyways, right? These cars are so worth it.

A low mileage Nikasil that is not all eaten away might not consume a sip of oil and last 239487532985739857 miles. I have a Nikasil in the VDP and I'm not so lucky - she eats.

 

All else being equal, I would go with the 2003. Its already been mentioned that being the last year model of the series, it will have all the best engineering. But also with low mileage on each, age is much more a concern than wear. Theoretically, you would get three more years before parts simply decompose. I have been restoring old cars for 30 years and I've come to the conclusion that age is much more a factor than mileage as plastics break down and metals corrode. Plus I find that wear parts like bearings and seals tend to be more universally available for old cars compared to structural components or trim parts or even some electronics which are typically unique to one model or even one year only. These Jaguars are already well past the age when Jaguar warehouses keep any of those things in stock so buy the newest one you can.

 

+1 03. But examine all repair documentation on both cars to guide you. If the 03 has had lots of work done (tires, shocks, bushings, brakes, shock mounts) which normally falls at the 60k point (or even 15 year), it is a better deal. Both engines are tough: the 23K difference in milage is minimal.

 

Thanks pdupler and Jhartz.

My heart says the 2000 but my mind says 2003.

Is the transmission on the 2003 slightly less reliable than the 2000?

these cars are beautiful. "they don't make em like they used to."

 

All the X308 Jaguar XJ8 sedans had the same transmission, the ZF5HP24. Only the XJR models have a Mercedes transmission.
They are fine as long as they have been regularly fluid changed. If not, be very careful when you do change it to do so a little fluid at a time.
A full drain+fill on one that has not had it done regularly will cause issues with hard shifting and hesitation because new fluid has lots of detergent that cleans away the built up 'varnish' of the old broken down fluid on the moving parts (solenoids and pressure regulation valves) so you get moving parts that get stuck in place or don't move as freely as they did. And certainly don't do a FLUSH. A proper service is to drop the pan, clean off the magnets on it, put a new gasket, re-install, and refill until level is correct.
Ask me how I know

 

Not to sound dumb, but buy the one you like the most. If you can verify tensioners on the '00, that'd be awesome.

 

Why not do a flush? A proper flush cleans all of the gunk and dirt out so you dont have an issue. The Trans Flush Pump is remarkable

 

I should have specified- do not do a flush in lieu of a full proper service. But flushing as part of that full service yes that would be the best option. Now whether to do it before or after dropping the pan is the next question.

 

Hello friends,

Thanks for the helpful responses.

I test drive the 03. There was a ticking sound coming from the engine. It occurred every 30 sec, both during startup and after a 15-minute drive. I wonder if it is the chain slapping. I read on another thread that it might be the variable valve timing solenoid. I attached a short video. I would appreciate it if you let me know your thoughts.

Thanks,