On my 2003 XJ8 I have a 2001 transmission. Some times the engine dies when it shifts in to 3rd gear. I can drive 3 days and everything is fine until suddenly the engine dies when it goes in to 3rd gear. I wait a while and restart the engine and the transmission failure alarm is reset and gone. I can now drive normal again. I have changed the TCM but same thing, It did not fix the problem.
I have bought oil and filter for the transmission but I wonder if I need some solenoids as well??
Hope someone has had the same problem.
Open for suggestions.
Thanks,
Leif

 

If you have the normally aspirated engine you have the ZF5HP24 transmission . I would first recommend verifying proper service level in one of the TSB's . The transmission fault codes are in a different PDF . The shift solenoid resistance value should be the some but since your issue is intermittent you may not see the fault at the time of meter observation . Without spending the time and money to confirm a fault code you might have to bite the bullet and just change the solenoid . Other may advise a different course of action . You could also have a under pressure main pressure regulator valve as well causing the issue . When I had a bad shift solenoid on a different transmission it wouldn't kill the engine . Have you cleaned the connector on the transmission itself ? Below are links to information :

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...r%20Manual.pdf

See reply # 2 and # 5 in this thread below :

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...t-gear-138196/

 

Hi Leif,

To add to Lady P's excellent advice, engine stalling has been associated with low transmission fluid, so it would be worth checking the fluid level as soon as possible.

I am attaching a section from the Workshop Manual showing how to drain and refill the fluid - just ignore the part about draining the fluid for now. Note that the vehicle must be as close to level as possible, and you will need a means of checking the temperature of the transmission fluid. An inexpensive infrared thermometer works well.

Check the rotary switch on the side of the transmission to confirm that it is securely mounted. The screws have been known to loosen and fall out.

Also, clean the electrical connector at the rear end of the transmission, as well as the grounds referenced by the TCM and ECM, at the Left-Hand EMS ground stud and the EMS Bulkhead ground stud, both in the engine bay. You can download the Electrical Guide here:

Jaguar X308 Electrical Guide 2003

Cheers,

Don

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/catalo...red+themometer

 

Thank you for all the hint from Lady P. and Don B.
I think I will start with changing the filter and fluid and check the pan so no metal shavings are present. If it happens again after fluid change I will take down the codes
and see what they say. I will let you know the end result.
I appreciate all the help.
Thanks,

 

See reply # 6 in this current thread :

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...1998-a-192574/

Depending on the source of the changed transmission and if the fluid was drained including the exposed torque converter you may or may not have fresh transmission fluid in it . You can always look at the color . It can also be the wrong under performing cheap fluid . To change out the fluid as it is installed would require at least 3 drain / fill cycles to get it around 85 % fresh / 15 % old . So the money adds up . As a less expensive try verify the correct fluid service level and transmission connector condition . If you do pull the pan consider doing the " A " drum / main pressure regulator mod as this is a common mode of failure ( Different then your symptoms , just complete destruction ) that you may have experienced with your first transmission .

If you read the codes after the first 2 suggested cheap corrective actions have them clear them as they are stored and read them again after a week and see if they reappear , or then again you may feel it as still bad .

 

I have changed the transmission oil and filter. I know the level is correct and the fluid is clean. I did not disconnect the electrical plug from transmission because I do not know how to disconnect it. Did not wanted to start pulling on the wires. If some one knows where to squeeze on the connector plug to disconnect it I would appreciate it.
Anyhow I run the car for 1day without any problem. 2nd day it died again with the transmission failure displayed. It was on the 1st gear this time. now I did something I should have done a long time ago. I connected the OBD tool and read the codes.
1st code 1000: it is okay, suppose to be on.
2nd code 0715: Input speed sensor.
3rd code: 1797: Can Link, No network token received from ECM node.
Thanks to Lady P. whom supplied the code explanation.
I think the input speed sensor came on when the engine died??
I have changed the TCM so next step is to check the intermittent problem from the wires or the ECM. I am open for suggestions. Is it the signal from transmission??? to TCM or from TCM to ECM. I have to look more in the documents to figure out how the signal suppose to go. Need help,
Thanks,
Leif

 

There are 2 speed sensor in the transmission that should read the same as a fundamental reading , the functional reading would be hard to measure . You can read this as a fundamental resistance valve at either the Transmission ECU or the connector on the transmission itself . Recommend doing both as a cleaning of the transmission connector may resolve it as a easy less intrusive try . With the term bayonet connector used the connector ring pulls straight back to disengage like a air hose connector , may be stuck as some penetrating spray would help . Don't try too hard if you twist it as it will break .

See post # 7 and # 9

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...s-test-192747/

ZF5HP24 Doc : See page 70

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...ansmission.pdf

And :

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...r%20Manual.pdf

 

Thanks Lady Penelope. I have read all the document but nothing tells you how to disconnect the Bayonet connector. With a name like that you would assume that you would twist it and pull after you twist it. I will try to pull it out like and air hose connection.
I will let you know if I break anything or not. This is why I did not try before to disconnect the plug.

 

Replaced alot of them in the airlines as they try to hard the wrong way

 

Leif,

I meant to ask you before, but what kind of new transmission fluid did you use?

Cheers, Don

 

Hi Don,
I use Febi ATF ESSO LT 71141 (Nr. 29738).
Leif

 

There could be a fault with the throttle assy. I used to replace the throttle assys if the THROTTLE DATA DOWNLOAD indicated a fault. I would call Jaguar Technical Hotline and get permission to replace the throttle assy if the data verified the problem.

Sometimes the throttle just 'shuts-down' and stalls the engine.

Jaguar sent a Field Service Engineer to our shop once and he showed us how to read the data with WDS. I copied and wrote down the info but XJRGUY wrote a concise bulletin as a 'How-To' guide for determining if this is happening.

You will need WDS or IDS to read the proper data line.

We had to copy the data and attach it to our repair order info to be paid in new car warranty. No copy and the payment request was denied by Jaguar.

Might not be the problem for you but it is something to consider if the engine shuts down while the car is in motion.

The Service Action S514 was for the earlier throttle faults but I included it as a reference for informational purposes only.

bob

 

Thank you Bob ( motorman ) for your input. I will look in to the throttle body if what I have done fails.
Here is an update, I finally manage to remove the trany plug and cleaned it with Electro cleaned QD. I also sprayed the trany part as well. I will drive the car until it stalls again and read the codes at that time, However I now have a oil leak in the transmission oil pan gasket. I have changed the gasket and oil twice and can not see any dirt anywhere. I have now ordered me an low torque wrench to check all the bolts to be about 11Nm. I have a bad experience by using a click torque wrench on low torque bolts. Tell you about that another time. as you can hear when it is raining it pores as well. one thing after another. I do not think any one will recommend putting gasket sealer on the trany oil pan, but if you have any suggestions I am all open for it. The oil pan did not leak before I changed the oil and filter.

 

I located the transmission leak to filling plug with a mirror, bought a new one. $14.00.
I drove the car for 2 days and it happened again, it stalled. I checked the codes. It was the same codes as before,
1st code 1000: it is okay, suppose to be on.
2nd code 0715: Input speed sensor.
3rd code: 1797: Can Link, No network token received from ECM node.
I guess I will follow Motorman's advice and look to change the throttle body.
I am now looking for a used throttle body.
I am not sure this will take care of my problem?? but it is worth doing before I start looking on speed sensors in the transmission. I can unfortunately not follow the technical readings that motorman sent me because I do not have the necessary equipment. Just wonder if you know what codes was identified on the OBDII before you had to change the throttle body???
If anyone has some other suggestions I am listening.
Thanks,

 

Did you read with a meter the 2 transmission speed sensors of a fundamental value of 1300 ohms ?

I'll get you a test of the 2003 X308 throttle body throttle position sensor ( 2 of them ) before you buy anything

TPS 1 : pin EM83 - 5 through EM81 - 10

TPS 2 : pin EM83 - 5 through EM81 - 19

Positions marked in yellow on the print I made for someone else

The Papa Indy 1 connector would be easier ( look for connector corrosion and clean ) at pin 14 through 3 and pin 14 through 1

These are sensitive shielded wires so check the shield grounds at EM81 - 24 and the ECU ground points including the ECU case ground .

Don't remove the TPS

What you are looking for is a smooth climb in resistance as you twist the throttle trough its range . A bad TPS will be an open or a bad spot on the range as the meter bips to high resistance

The TPS 1 and 2 Orange / Yellow 5 volt reference wire is tied into the PPS 1 and 2 and the fuel tank pressure sensor for North American vehicles only . Bonehead engineering .

Editing

 

Codes - P? B? C? U?

Look up the right ones in the jag doc - free download.

 

Okay, Lady P. I will do some investigation and let you know what I find out. It will take me a couple of days.
Thanks,
Leif

 

As JagV8 suggested , were those P or T code prefixes ?

 

If you have to drain & refill again, I have 7+ quarts(5.2 jug w/ 2 single quart units) of Febi Bilstein ATF Transmission Fluid, Esso LT 71141 I will let go for not much more than shipping cost.

Purchased for a drain & fill but had it rebuilt & the shop used it's own fluid for warranty compliance.

Godspeed on getting it sorted !