Hi again, I reported a week or two ago that I believed, my 98 Nikasil had fuel wash, as I have had it happen in the past and like an idiot assumed the no start was caused by the same problem.. After a frustrating 2 days , I find I have no pressure on the fuel rail, checked at the fitting just in front of the left front of the motor........ However.......I have been checking the codes as I go and no sign of low or no pressure codes. Is this normal?? Not looking forward to dropping the tank if I dont need to .

 

The fuel pump can have failed but not triggered any codes.

With the ignition on, but the engine not running, unscrew the blue cap and check for fuel pressure at the Shrader valve on the fuel rail. It should have approx 38-40lbs of pressure.




Harbor Freight has a pressure gauge set that will fit for just $24 bucks (or, you can simply press the Shrader valve and gasoline should spurt about a foot in the air!!! Have rags at the ready!)
https://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-i...ter-62623.html





You could also try replacing the fuel pump relay...........but if you do not have fuel pressure it is likely you need to replace the fuel pump (and fuel filter)

Another culprit could be a blocked fuel filter.


.

 

Thanks for the comeback Carnival Kid.............Carried out the the manual method of checking pressure at the Shrader valve ,No pressure on gauge, then did the valve release also to be sure. Then switched the relays in the trunk for fuel pump.......no improvement. So at this point all I know is no pressure/ fuse good/relay good/ . I would like to be able to get at the pump connector to see if power is getting there. I do not have a wiring diagram.......is the a Sticky somewhere on the site???

 

Here's a link to an electrical manual.........
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxj2001.pdf

 

Thete is a connector on the right side of the gas tank in the trunk

The brown/yellow wire is your hot and the black is the ground. I made a test connector, from a donor car, so I can test the fuel pump by directly putting 12v to the pump. If I hear the pump it is good. If I hear silence the pump is bad.

 

Good One BobRoy., Thanks much.........So this is where I got today. Carnival Kid directed me to the Electrical manual. ( thanks to you CK)......what I have found is that there is no power getting to the pump. I have switched relays to no avail. So my next guess is the relay is not being told to pull in. Going through the schematics ( wiring diagram), which is fun!!. So now trying to wring out the path back to the ECM...... So either an ESM or one of the multiple plugs that are involved between the from the ECM back to the pump. Also to check out the pump will try BobRoys method.....Slowly moving in on this one *(&^%$...........................Cj

 

When you switch the ignition "on", power will be sent to the pump (by the relay) for only a second or two and will then be off until you crank and start the engine. The relay will then keep power to the pump continuously on. To check whether the power is reaching the pump, you need to remove the relay and bridge the relay socket pins shown as thicker on the drawing below. For this test, you don't need to switch the ignition "on". Don't keep the the two pins bridged longer than a few seconds just in case the pump has seized in which case it will draw quite high current and may overheat.

 

Hi again Bob Roy........Getting back to the fuel pump checkout. O have the boot exposed now and the plugs I see do not resemble the one you sent in the last photo. Am I missing something or just blind ?? My wife has accused me of both.........any Ideas? Cj....Picture to follow. All I have is a very large plug and a small one , but none with the wires you speak of?

 

Pull the sound deadening material off the top of the tank and unplug the connector on the EVAPORATIVE FLANGE.

That is the power plug to the pump(s) (two for the SuperCharged)

 

I have found 4 "thicker" wires that I believe are headed for thre pimp Blue/Red...Blue / Brown, and 2 Blacks. Im going to wring them out now back to F7 ( pump fuse) , battery disconnected, and if one of them is headed for the pump, I plan to cut it at the harness and test with 12 v.. Wish me luck

 

So i wrung out with ohm meter the Blu/Brown back to F7 and have continuity. . ( Blue /Red ) seems its for Pump #2 (SC) ., Ready to apply 12v to Blu/Brown to test.
I did check for continuity across the pump, but it acts like a capacitor charging up. ( ie Continuity at first then climbs to infinity. Not sure what these fuel pumps should read (ohms) across them. Any ideas there. If you have one out of the car can yo test measure for me.)