About 2 weeks ago I had my check engine and restricted performance lights come on. I had the car scanned and the mechanic told me that the code was Cylinder 8 misfire. I changed the spark plug and the car ran much better but still had the check engine light and restricted performance.

While I was waiting for a new ignition coil to be shipped to me, the car died and would not start. Turning the key would make it crank but that is all.

I did not do anything with the car for a few days but when I tried to start it again nothing would happen at all. The message center was giving me Electrical Fault, Suspension Fault, Stability Control Fail, Engine Failsafe Mode errors. After reading through threads on this forum, I had my battery tested. After finding that it was bad I bought a new one and installed it.

The car is back to cranking but will still not turn over. I bought a code scanner and the only code the car will give me is P1000. I have read that this is a code given after the battery has been reset and will go away after driving about 100 miles.

I'm not sure what to try next. Any help would be gratefully appreciated. I just want to drive my baby again.

Thank You

 

I forgot to mention that I did receive the new ignition coil and change it before the battery died. Same thing as before, the engine just cranked but wouldn't turn over.

 

Prime the engine by turning the key to "on"
not to start, and listen to the injectors clicking.
Once hearing their cycle stop, repeat process
4 times. The car will most likely start.

This signifies leaky injectors, possibly a dying
fuel pump. My mechanic suggested that injectors
are very difficult to diagnose, but that the fuel
pump could cause this problem.

 

No code and won't start, we have to go old school.

Air, Fuel and Spark is needed to get the car started.

It it cranks, we can elimated the security module, ignition switch, starter, alternator, shifter lock......

Fuel - When was the fuel filter changed? Are you get fuel to the rails. Check that by a fuel pressure gauge, if you don't/can't get one, loosing the outlet (from the filter to the engine) fuel line, if some dips you have fuel coming out the filter. MAYBE not a lot, but it is not totally clogged. If that was the case you should get a crank, attempt to start, crank, crank, attempt to start.

Turn the key to the on position and listen to see if you can hear the fuel pump prime, if not priming noise. Check the fuse for the fuel pump.

Spark - now this is harder, since we have coil on plug, get a spark plug tester and place it in the coil and on top of the spark plug and crank, if it lights you have spark.

Air - make sure the air filter it clean and the air tubing is not clogged. Take off the air tube and see if the throttle body is dirty.

If all check to be in good condition, it should start or attempt to start.

Test the Crankshaft and Camshaft Position Sensor, there should be a post somewhere on the forum to help you with that.

 

Thank you so much for all of your suggestions. I'll let you know how it all goes.

 

Sounds like a dying or toasted fuel pump to me. Perform suggestions listed above. When dealing with fuel - when you check for pressure at the rail you should have at least 40 PSI at the schrader valve when turning the ignition on. (dribbling fuel coming out of the schrader valve is a problem - it should literally spray out - be careful - lots of rags should be used by that valve)

Any less indicates a partially or fully clogged fuel filter or possibly a toasted fuel pump.

Also, check all connectors to all fuel injectors - make sure the connectors are on tight.

 

I have checked the air filter and tubing to make sure it is clean. Also I cleaned the throttle body. The engine still just cranks. I need to get a spark plug tester and fuel pressure tester to run both of those tests.

I just find it weird that there are no codes when the check engine light and restricted performance lights are still on.

 

Where are the fuel injectors for me to check?

Also when I turn my key to the second position you can hear the fuel pump turn on.

 

Follow the fuel rail on both sides of the engine to find the fuel injectors - make sure the electrical connector on top of each injector is fully seated...

 

I checked the fuel injectors and they are all securely connected.

 

So, you do have a CEL on? then there are codes, but the reader you using is not compatible with Jaguar, thats why you not seeing the codes.

I have a scanner that worked on every car I own since purchasing it, but will not work on the Jaguar.

 

Is the engine spinning like it is missing compression? Did you recently start the car move it and shut it down? If you have fuel and spark my guess is that you cylinder washing and this can be resolved by creating compression. As for the many codes you will acquire codes in the process of attempting to start your car when the battery becomes weak. Take a moment and read the No Start Procedure and see if it helps.

Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

Check your fuses under the hood. I think it is fuse 30. If that blows, the car will crank but not start!

 

Read my thread, maybe something there will be helpful... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...failure-83389/

 

I know this is an old thread but I just had the similar issue. I tried everything. Last night it ran great, this morning it would just spin. I have been having trouble with the shift cable so I took the console apart and was able to ram the shifter higher up into park and it started right away. I have been having trouble with the shifter and have had to hold it pressed into park while turning the key so that is what got me thinking about the shift mechanism not letting me start. It would spin but not fire. I hope this helps others in this position.

 

Wouldn't you get a code if cam shaft sensor be bad?

 

if you broke a timing chain would you get a code?

 

Maybe, maybe not? I would presume a cam sensor fault but if the chain broke the engine is probably toast

 

It would be best that you begin a new post and tell us what your car is or is not doing.

 

It is hard to diagnose an issue with such small information provided. Members will try to help the best
they can but can do a better job with adequate information to work on. Identifying the engine, mileage,
history of the problem, and relevant issues pertinent to the current situation can go a long way towards a
fellow member identifying the problem and suggesting a course of action.