XJ8 and Kick-Down - Switch or no switch?
#1
XJ8 and Kick-Down - Switch or no switch?
My 99 XJ8 Sport is very reluctant when it comes to kick-downs.
When flooring it right from the start the car is very fast.
But when driving at any speed and then flooring it there seldom is a kickdown (downshift).
That behaviour almost got me in trouble when I passed a truck last week on a small two-laned road.
I was lucky enough and got past the truck right before the opposing traffic.
But that incident made me think...
What's wrong with the kickdown in my car?
That might be a very dumb question, but on my 99 XJ there is no kickdown switch underneath the pedal.
Just a black plastic pedal stop knob.
Shouldn't there be a switch?
Do I have another problem or is that the way the Jags behave?
Your input is very much appreciated!
David
When flooring it right from the start the car is very fast.
But when driving at any speed and then flooring it there seldom is a kickdown (downshift).
That behaviour almost got me in trouble when I passed a truck last week on a small two-laned road.
I was lucky enough and got past the truck right before the opposing traffic.
But that incident made me think...
What's wrong with the kickdown in my car?
That might be a very dumb question, but on my 99 XJ there is no kickdown switch underneath the pedal.
Just a black plastic pedal stop knob.
Shouldn't there be a switch?
Do I have another problem or is that the way the Jags behave?
Your input is very much appreciated!
David
Last edited by DavidN; 02-17-2011 at 04:54 AM.
#2
The following users liked this post:
DavidN (02-17-2011)
#3
Sean,
it definitely is just a piece of plastic!
I had removed it for closer inspection a while ago.
No switch, no cables, no electronics in it.
Just a plastic pedal stop knob, really!!!
+ I couldn't find any cables near that place where a switch could have been plugged in.
Strange, isn't it?
P.S.
Non-supercharged 4.0 V8 AJ27 engine, MY 1999
it definitely is just a piece of plastic!
I had removed it for closer inspection a while ago.
No switch, no cables, no electronics in it.
Just a plastic pedal stop knob, really!!!
+ I couldn't find any cables near that place where a switch could have been plugged in.
Strange, isn't it?
P.S.
Non-supercharged 4.0 V8 AJ27 engine, MY 1999
#4
The kick-down switch has 2 parts, the upper black plastic knob and the bottom part which is the electrical switch.
To adjust it correctly you need an OBD2 reader that display throttle opening %
Push on the gas pedal until it make light contact with the knob ( light meaning that the switch do no "click"
In this position throttle opening should be 90%
If not screw the knob in if the reading was less than 90% and unscrew it if the reading was more than 90%
To adjust it correctly you need an OBD2 reader that display throttle opening %
Push on the gas pedal until it make light contact with the knob ( light meaning that the switch do no "click"
In this position throttle opening should be 90%
If not screw the knob in if the reading was less than 90% and unscrew it if the reading was more than 90%
Last edited by luc; 02-17-2011 at 09:05 AM.
#5
The following users liked this post:
DavidN (02-17-2011)
#6
Okay, there is obviously something not right...
I have an OBD-II reader.
WOT was about 83% (if I remember correctly).
(With no pressure on the pedal it still was 4% or so. Cable had slack though.)
I checked the pedal stop (that was when I found out that there is NO switch) and screwed the "stop knob" fully in.
WOT now was about 89%.
I adjusted the throttle cable until the OBD read 99% @ WOT.
So far so good... Test drive ...
After engine warmed up I got a high idle (around 1500rpms).
So I adjusted the cable again (a few revolutions back) until idle was fine again.
WOT (per OBD-reading) now: 92%.
I'm not able to get more throttle opening per adjusting the cable. That will only increase the idle rpms.
And my "idle" throttle opening is around 4-5 percent (throttle cable completely released)!
Idle RPMs are around 600.
Another problem which is possibly somehow connected with the pedal/switch/throttle-cable problem...
I have the newer style throttle body with no vacuum unit on top.
Sean wrote that probably my ECU is mapped for the older style throttle body.
I appreciate any thoughts!
David
P.S.
I'm heading for the garage to take a picture of my no kickdown-switch-stop-knob...
Will post picture...
I have an OBD-II reader.
WOT was about 83% (if I remember correctly).
(With no pressure on the pedal it still was 4% or so. Cable had slack though.)
I checked the pedal stop (that was when I found out that there is NO switch) and screwed the "stop knob" fully in.
WOT now was about 89%.
I adjusted the throttle cable until the OBD read 99% @ WOT.
So far so good... Test drive ...
After engine warmed up I got a high idle (around 1500rpms).
So I adjusted the cable again (a few revolutions back) until idle was fine again.
WOT (per OBD-reading) now: 92%.
I'm not able to get more throttle opening per adjusting the cable. That will only increase the idle rpms.
And my "idle" throttle opening is around 4-5 percent (throttle cable completely released)!
Idle RPMs are around 600.
Another problem which is possibly somehow connected with the pedal/switch/throttle-cable problem...
...my Jag is not decellerating properly. When I lift my foot off the pedal the car won't slow down as I'm used to from other cars. When I go for example about 30mph and let the pedal go completely (foot lifted off the pedal) the car still holds that speed and slowly, very slowly decreases it's speed.
It takes about 1/4 a Mile to decrease the speed from 30mph to 24mph (plain road).
So I feel that I do brake a lot more than I should. Not good for the brakes, not good for the gas mileage.
Idle is fine though (~600 rpm).
When I turn on the ignition I can hear a constant whine from the servo motor that turnes/opens the butterfly.
I checked the butterfly position with ignition on (engine not running) and noticed that the butterfly is always a bit open (a gap can be seen).
When I turn off ignition, the butterfly closes completely.
When I tried to adjust (turn) the TPS on my XJ8 I got a "bang" in the drivetrain following a "transmission failure" message on my test drive.
So I set the TPS back to it's original position.
After setting the TPS to it's original position I had the car in the shop.
They hooked it on the tester, testdrove it and told me that everything was fine, which I doubt...
It takes about 1/4 a Mile to decrease the speed from 30mph to 24mph (plain road).
So I feel that I do brake a lot more than I should. Not good for the brakes, not good for the gas mileage.
Idle is fine though (~600 rpm).
When I turn on the ignition I can hear a constant whine from the servo motor that turnes/opens the butterfly.
I checked the butterfly position with ignition on (engine not running) and noticed that the butterfly is always a bit open (a gap can be seen).
When I turn off ignition, the butterfly closes completely.
When I tried to adjust (turn) the TPS on my XJ8 I got a "bang" in the drivetrain following a "transmission failure" message on my test drive.
So I set the TPS back to it's original position.
After setting the TPS to it's original position I had the car in the shop.
They hooked it on the tester, testdrove it and told me that everything was fine, which I doubt...
Sean wrote that probably my ECU is mapped for the older style throttle body.
I appreciate any thoughts!
David
P.S.
I'm heading for the garage to take a picture of my no kickdown-switch-stop-knob...
Will post picture...
Last edited by DavidN; 02-17-2011 at 11:51 AM.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Interesting- My XJ8 doesn't have that knob but does have the screw sticking out. That normally stops the pedal but if I push it hard it slips over that and boy does that car go like a scalded cat!! I reckon you check this thread out though David: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...t=38663&page=3
Go to page 3 for our engines.
I did this job on mine and it made the difference, and the kick down was a little more responsive. I know you say you adjusted it already but there are many Qs & As related to the adjustment.
Hope This Helps!
S.
Go to page 3 for our engines.
I did this job on mine and it made the difference, and the kick down was a little more responsive. I know you say you adjusted it already but there are many Qs & As related to the adjustment.
Hope This Helps!
S.
#9
#10
As I mentioned earlier if I push the pedal right down (so it pops over the screw sticking out) it goes fast. I don't floor the car often these days (Can't afford to with these fuel prices) and certainly don't push it past the screw as I figured out that that stop is there for a reason.
There probably is a kick down switch somewhere but it is most likely hidden in the throttle body or somewhere in the pedal box.
#11
#14
#15
I would venture its not the switch that is the source of that problem, but more likely throttle body and/or air/fuel delivery inconsistency or even spark. Lots of places to get into, but a good tuneup with new plugs (maybe even ignition coils), air flow sensor and throttle body cleaning, new air filter, fuel filter, vacuum leak investigation and correction, fuel additive to clean the injectors, etc.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)