Okay, so it's been a while since I've humored you with one of my off the wall questions, so here goes. The top radiator mount nipple(for lack of a better name) has broken off, allowing coolant to leak out. It is Sunday, and I haven't started chasing used parts yet, but a new radiator on line will run $500 give or take. So my question is, has anyone tried to repair this particular item using some JB Weld or other equal substance? I would think the JB Weld would withstand the coolant pressure, but perhaps not the stresses encountered in normal day to day operation, as everything is rubber/bush mounted. Also, does anyone know if one can purchase just a fan blade without the motor. Somehow, the radiator got pushed back out of the lower mount on the drivers side, resulting in the broken nipple, and also cracked the fan blade on that side. And no, I wasn't driving, otherwise I would know what careless act caused this damage. I think I see the writing on the wall (new radiator), but thought this fix might be worth trying. What are your thoughts? Thanks & glad I could give you a chuckle.

 

Do you mean the small pipe (arrowed) for connection to the Expansion Tank?



If it's a clean break, worth a try with JB Weld. Remember how sensitive the V8 it to overheating and not to risk dumping the coolant through a fractured hose connection.

The bad news on the Cooling Fans is the Parts Manual lists the whole thing as an assembly with no sub parts. That's the two fans and the plastic cowling.

I'd definitely be trying to source used parts first.

Graham

 

Graham: Appreciate the reply. To answer your question, no it's not the tubing nipple pictured that broke. It's actually the post (don't know why I couldn't think of that word last night) on top just above your noted fitting. And yes on the fans, I had noticed that in my parts manual as well. Anyhow, this post is done for now I hope. I located used items today and should be wrenching by the weekend. I don't like doing things twice or jury rigging if I don't have to. Had second thoughts about the JB Weld. Now I need to go research topping of the tranny and getting coolant into a system with no radiator cap. I presume through the top of the thermostat housing........
As a side bar, the liquid gold tranny fluid from Jaguar cost more than my good bourbon, at $70 a liter......ouch.

 

Rae:
Ok, I'll bite. Why do you have no radiator cap?

 

Search the posts for trans fluid sources, I spent 15 bucks a liter...
I would take the radiator to a radiator shop. I did, and it cost 40 bucks to get it fixed.

 

Ralph,

Good to hear you've located used items. Jaguar plastic nudges gold bullion in the pricing structure.

The JTIS coolant refill procedure is:

1. Fill the cooling system at the Header Tank until the level stabilises at the top of the breather neck.
2. Allow at least 2 minutes for air to purge from the system.
3. Top up the Header Tank as required and fit the Pressure Cap.
4. Switch on the ignition, switch off the climate control system and start the engine.
5. Run the engine at between 1500 and 2000 rpm until the cooling fans operate.
6. Switch on the A/C system, set to maximum heat, and check that heat is coming from the heater at the fascia vents or the footwell outlets.
7. Switch off the engine and allow it to cool down.
8. When cool, remove the Pressure Cap and top up the system as necessary at the header tank.

The recommendation used to be to fill through the Thermostat Housing Cap to avoid airlocks but this isn't really necessary and filling slowly through the Expansion Tank (Header Tank) is easier.

Graham

 

Ross: When I mentioned no radiator cap, I was thinking as compaired to the old days, when even on these closed systems, there would still be a cap on the top of the radiator end piece. I know there is a cap on the expansion tank, but would think that would be a slow fill. But, perhaps not so, since Graham has provided above procedure.
Thanks to all for replies. I will try Grahams method for filling up cooling system. Plan to attack Saturday.

 

Yep. The expansion tank is in the flow circuit, so it will fill everything. Notive the 2o mm or so tube running off the bottom.

 

Wildcard question: Has anyone been successful at removing the radiator without breaking open the ac condenser plumbing? At first glance the other day, I thought I might be able to remove upper condenser bolts on front and rock/tilt radiator back away from condenser without disconnecting the condenser. Perhaps the lower radiator mounts could be removed, allowing the radiator to drop off the tabs along lower edge of condenser before tilting away from condenser......again, I haven't looked at this yet, so I may be full of smoke... The shop manual has you disconnecting the condenser pipes/tubes. Thoughts?

 

Hi Rae,

Yes you can get the radiator out without undoing the AC system. Just takes some careful maneuvering. Take off the fans first and it is much easier.

As for the hole, if it cannot be repaired by your local guy, consider tapping a thread into it and using an oil drain plug or plastic bolt to plug the hole. I did something similar with an older XJ6 when I broke a nipple off- I used a threaded barb fitting and it stayed leak free from that point on.

 

Up and running again. Thanks to all for your replies. Was able to remove the radiator without breaking open the ac system with a little patience. Something I'm normally short on. Also removed the front bumper to give me some elbow room. Took longer to disconnect the multi plugs than to unbolt and remove bumper. Picked up used radiator $125 & cooling fan unit $150, splurged for Jag tranny fluid, o-rings for cooler lines & coolant. The downside is, I did break the drivers side fuel rail cover near the part load breather with my heavy elbow, perhaps the kid won't notice. For those of you in the Louisville, KY area, Grade A Auto Parts & Ben or Brian @ Jaguar Louisville have always done me right. I've got to get rid of the 23yr old, and put up the garage closed sign.