Ok, but you didn't mention how difficult it is to to gain access to the 2 bolts holding the EGR tube off the exhaust manifold. Those little buggers sit in a nasty spot. All the bolts back there are a Bi_ch to get to even after you take off the plastic panel below the windshield and the cross frame, and the hood.

 

Agreed! But let me put it this way, if your gonna pull the heads, from start to finish the job is all a pain.

 

Sorry I had a very busy week last week.
My first experience with the jaguar engine is that it isn't a beginners engine to pull and strip down.

I had the engine removed to work on it easily. Can imagine that in situation it would be a royal pain in the .... to work on it. On an engine stad not at all.
If you just do the head then maybe its another story, but then even it would be easier to pull it perhaps?

 

I think I am still suffering from "Post Jaguar Engine Pull Stress Syndrome"! So much so, that the replacement engine has been mounted to an engine stand for 5 months and I still haven't started to refresh it. I remember having nightmares about reaching my hand down tiny gaps along the side of the engine trying to break nuts loose, or disconnect hose clamps or wires, only to shred a knuckle and bleed to death. Enough frustration that I finally removed the front bumper, head lights, and front fender liners, and all the radiators. On my STR, removing all this crap made it much easier to access hard to get to parts. Unfortunately, this made a big pile of crap set against a wall that I no longer remember where all the parts go. After a couple days of removing and disconnecting parts, the engine/trans pulled out in less than 20 minutes.

 

The best information to fall back on is photos. Document each step you take with lots of detailed photos and you will be fine. Also labeling bits and bagging them groupwise is usefull.

 

Can't say I didn't warn you about this engine being a pain! Now that you have the motor pulled, get a rear main for a Lincoln LS with the 3.9 v8 as your replacement. I have the part number at work if you plan on replacing it. About 2" above the rear main is a 17mm Allen socket. I KNOW you have this tool for adding trans fluid on a VW! There's a seal that's called: 'cooling system cap seal' underneath it that you need to replace. That plug is there from when they machined the block. That nonmoving part leaks more than the rear main does. That seal is also the same as what's on top of the engine for the S/C cooling system.

 

Ah interesting! And thanks for the tip. What kind of seal is used underneath that bolt?
I've ordered the entire lower and topend gasket kit, but that would probably not be in there....

 

Back in the old days when men were men and sheep were nervous, when we would walk 10 miles to school in the snow, and it was up hill both ways, decades before digital cameras were invented. We didn’t need to bag and tag parts, or take pictures. You had to commit to memory where each and every part went as you tore it off the car. Occasionally, there would be an oh-shi_ when you were finished and there was one part left over. If the car started and ran, you didn’t need that part anyway.

 

All to familiar indeed. I'm "lucky" to say I've been working on cars well before the internet and digital camera age aswell. Nowdays i've fully adapted modern convenience to speed up the process.

 

It resembles a rubber o-ring that has a metal casing crushed over it. If you can't obtain one, just remove it & use silicone on both sides of it and Teflon sealer on the threads. I know it seems a bit overkill, but better safe than sorry.

 

One thing I learned so far with these engines is that getting parts takes ages!
You really have to not be in a hurry....

Anyways, yesterday i've received the bits from SNG and assembled the bottomend of the engine. New piston ringes (gapped), mainbearings, rodbearings and bolts. Also installed the sump structural member and oil pan. The main and rod bearings verified with plastigauge and all is within the manual specs.

Next up will be to mount the heads.
I've ordered the adjusted hights shims for the valve clearance. Sadly One cilinder has a to little valve lash. So need to order slightly lower shim.

Other then that its sweet to build up a super clean engine with new bits.

 

You got a lot of work done.

What motor mounts are you going to use on that beast? I think the later 4.2 mounts can work with minor fabrication on the 4.0's. I'd look into that since you have a substantial increase in power.

 

The engine mounts will remain stock. The engine is just being refurbished . So i don't think it will have a big power gain over stock. I would love to add twin screw but there are to many other projects that also require funds....

 

Small update on this side. Ive stripped down the supercharger to replace the bearings, coupler, oil and seal. Then asembled the engine and dropped it in yesterday.

Everything is connected up, all fluids topped up and it fired up straight away.
Have 2 issues to tackle still.

One is the breather hose snapped from the valvecover to throttle body. So it has an airleak there. It is quite far under the TB so that is not so great.

Secondly the fans do not kick in.
Ive ran the coolant system without the cap to let air escape. No further result. When turning the AC on both fans start.
I read something about a fuse and the relay to check. Found the relay but not yet the fuse.
The temp gauge went up to 3/4 of the scale up. So quite high. Roy mentioned he isntalled the realgauge before....

Is the sensor on the back of the chargecooler the one for the ecu coolant?

Are there any other pointers i can check?
Waterpump is new
thermostat isnt new. Did notice both the return and feed to the radioter are getting hot, so that would indicate that it is opening.

Thanks!
Jeffry

 

Found a schematic. Sensor on the charecooler is IAT. So the one on the coolant bridge next to the thermostat is the ECTS. I've replaced that one because the connector was broken off. That was my first suspiscion the engine failed.