XJR Auxiliary Coolant Pump replacement DIY
#1
11-24-2016, 08:37 PM
XJR Auxiliary Coolant Pump replacement DIY
First, apologies for lack of pictures, but I'll try to get some tomorrow (but I'll do my best to explain it).
The auxiliary coolant pump in my '03 XJR had died a few weeks ago. It appears the brushes were shot, and while there are repair guides out there, and a thread on jagrepair - JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource - I decided to replace it with a used one I found online, and take the time to rebuild mine in the warmer weather instead of risking something going bad and leaving me in a pickle.
That said, you do NOT need to remove the reservoir, or unhook anything other than the pump itself. This whole process took under ten minutes. Don't open the cap until you're done, and that's just to see if you will have to top it off. You probably won't need to.
Tools needed:
Step 1:
Remove the center cover panel above the reservoir by removing the philips screw in the center (mine is missing, so I'm just assuming it's a screw since the corner panels are the same). Set it aside.
Step 2:
Remove two 8mm nuts from the reservoir tank. The one towards the firewall is facing straight up, and the other is at a 90 degree so you'll have to feel your way onto that one. DON'T DROP THEM!!! They never seem to make it all the way to the ground.
Step 3:
Unclip the coolant level sensor from underneath the tank, squeeze the clip and remove. If you don't do this, there's a chance you can pull the entire thing out the bottom of the reservoir. Ask me how I know.
Step 4:
Pull up the tank slightly, breaking it free from it's mounts. This part is necessary to give you enough wiggle room for the next parts.
Step 5:
Remove three 8mm nuts holding the bracket that holds the aux pump. Yes, there are three. Two are obvious, but a third is in the center of the bracket, set back in, and hidden from plain sight. If you forget, you'll know it.
Step 6:
Unhook the electrical connector on the bracket, and set the main lead aside out of the way.
Step 7:
Using a little wiggling, you'll want to pull up on the reservoir just enough, that you can then pull the pump bracket off the studs. There is enough room to pull the pump assembly up just above the cam cover, which will give you enough room for your pliers.
Step 8:
Using aforementioned pliers (and this is where the long needle-nose came in handy), squeeze the clamps and slide them down the hoses.
Step 9:
There will be enough room to pull the pump up enough, to reach the hoses and pull them off the pump. There will be some spillage, but not much, unless you opened the reservoir cap. If so, that's on you. Remove the pump once they're freed.
Step 9b:
If your replacement pump didn't have a bracket with it, transfer the bracket from the old one to the replacement.
Step 10:
Reverse all steps above. Make sure you have the wire for the coolant sensor untangled when you do, and don't get the wire for the pump caught behind the bracket when you put the pump in. Check to see if you need to top off, and then start up and check for heat. In mine, it only took a few minutes before I started building heat in the car, and I started to feel it on any setting I picked, before I was even halfway to operating temperature.
Count yourself victorious, and make sure you aren't reaching for an orange drink to celebrate.
The auxiliary coolant pump in my '03 XJR had died a few weeks ago. It appears the brushes were shot, and while there are repair guides out there, and a thread on jagrepair - JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource - I decided to replace it with a used one I found online, and take the time to rebuild mine in the warmer weather instead of risking something going bad and leaving me in a pickle.
That said, you do NOT need to remove the reservoir, or unhook anything other than the pump itself. This whole process took under ten minutes. Don't open the cap until you're done, and that's just to see if you will have to top it off. You probably won't need to.
Tools needed:
- Pliers to release hose clamps - I used a pair of extended needle-nose.
- Philips-head screwdriver
- 8mm socket - I found it easiest with a 1/4" ratchet, and deep well socket.
Step 1:
Remove the center cover panel above the reservoir by removing the philips screw in the center (mine is missing, so I'm just assuming it's a screw since the corner panels are the same). Set it aside.
Step 2:
Remove two 8mm nuts from the reservoir tank. The one towards the firewall is facing straight up, and the other is at a 90 degree so you'll have to feel your way onto that one. DON'T DROP THEM!!! They never seem to make it all the way to the ground.
Step 3:
Unclip the coolant level sensor from underneath the tank, squeeze the clip and remove. If you don't do this, there's a chance you can pull the entire thing out the bottom of the reservoir. Ask me how I know.
Step 4:
Pull up the tank slightly, breaking it free from it's mounts. This part is necessary to give you enough wiggle room for the next parts.
Step 5:
Remove three 8mm nuts holding the bracket that holds the aux pump. Yes, there are three. Two are obvious, but a third is in the center of the bracket, set back in, and hidden from plain sight. If you forget, you'll know it.
Step 6:
Unhook the electrical connector on the bracket, and set the main lead aside out of the way.
Step 7:
Using a little wiggling, you'll want to pull up on the reservoir just enough, that you can then pull the pump bracket off the studs. There is enough room to pull the pump assembly up just above the cam cover, which will give you enough room for your pliers.
Step 8:
Using aforementioned pliers (and this is where the long needle-nose came in handy), squeeze the clamps and slide them down the hoses.
Step 9:
There will be enough room to pull the pump up enough, to reach the hoses and pull them off the pump. There will be some spillage, but not much, unless you opened the reservoir cap. If so, that's on you. Remove the pump once they're freed.
Step 9b:
If your replacement pump didn't have a bracket with it, transfer the bracket from the old one to the replacement.
Step 10:
Reverse all steps above. Make sure you have the wire for the coolant sensor untangled when you do, and don't get the wire for the pump caught behind the bracket when you put the pump in. Check to see if you need to top off, and then start up and check for heat. In mine, it only took a few minutes before I started building heat in the car, and I started to feel it on any setting I picked, before I was even halfway to operating temperature.
Count yourself victorious, and make sure you aren't reaching for an orange drink to celebrate.
The following 3 users liked this post by CharlzO:
#2
11-25-2016, 05:58 PM
Veteran Member
I posted this in the XK forum when I replaced my pump with the Bosch unit. If you are not rebuilding, or just doing to upgrade (I had it go and used it as an excuse).
If you check the S&G Barratt catalogs, you'll see that the "Supercharger Coolant Pump" is the same exact part number, C2C1314, for the X100 XKR and the X308 XJR; so the below should definitely work the same for an XJR.
Basically I created a quick little adapter harness to be 100% plug and play with the Bosch unit, with no soldering directly to the bosch intercooler pump.
If you check the S&G Barratt catalogs, you'll see that the "Supercharger Coolant Pump" is the same exact part number, C2C1314, for the X100 XKR and the X308 XJR; so the below should definitely work the same for an XJR.
Basically I created a quick little adapter harness to be 100% plug and play with the Bosch unit, with no soldering directly to the bosch intercooler pump.
Cliffs:
Bosch 0 392 022 010 works great!
Mercedes parts to build adapter harness combined with Hella plug works great too!
Doing both the Bosch pump with Mercedes plug costs about $110-115 total.
New Pump works better than dead pump.
I put the intercooler pump in yesterday.
Here are the Mercedes part numbers needed to build the plug that fits the 010 bosch pump:
Qty 1 of: 230-540-00-81 "COUPLING" - $2.70
Qty 2 of: 008-545-63-26 "PLUG" - $7.20 (total)
Qty 2 of: 000-54568-80 "RUBBER RIN" - $6.30 (total)
Total Price at local Mercedes dealer - $16.20
Note that better prices can be found online but I asked the clerk and it would be incredibly rude to use his time to get part numbers then go online to save $5.
This gets you the plastic connector, the little pins that you connect the wires to and insert into the connector, and the small rubber rings that you slide over the wire and when the wire is inserted into the connector it is the little seal that keeps water out.
I bought a $4 set of 127 pieces of heatshrink at harbor freight, and a $6 set of 40 various screw clamp hose clamps; since I was out of both at home. I used a soldering iron and wired my newly built Mercedes connector with tail into the old hella pigtail (black with Red is positive on the hella side, brown with black is negative on the hella side; the new Bosch pump is clearly labelled on the bottom which is which). Then I heatshrank it all.
Installation is easy and the required tools are really just a 8mm and 10mm socket AND a pair of open end wrenches; remove the air filter box; remove the 2 bolts holding the bracket holding the pump to the body of the car; remove the pump pigtail from the car wiring harness. I chose to simply cut the pigtail off the pump while still installed, then build my adapter connector, then work on removing the old pump off the car.
Put a big catch pan underneath as some coolant will drain. I removed the old pump from the body mounting bracket; this was two nuts. The new pump is bigger and the rubber insulator that was on the old pump can't be reused with the 010 bosch unit. Now the old pump is just dangling by the two hoses in the car. Get your new pump ready. Note the orientation of the hoses so that you minimize time orienting the new pump. If you get things swapped quick; including removing the old spring clamps and sliding on the new screw clamps; you'll minimize the amount of drained coolant. Then bolt everything back in, plug in your adapter harness you built, and then put your airbox; all that reassembly is oddly the reverse of removal!
Once everything is buttoned up; turn the ignition to on; but don't crank. You will hear the pump! Make sure nothing is leaking. Follow proper XKR procedure on coolant filling; this involves burping through the IC coolant plug and the coolant reservoir. I drove it around for about 20 minutes and never got a low coolant light. I always prefer checking one last time the next day whenever I mess with coolant on this system.
Bosch 0 392 022 010 works great!
Mercedes parts to build adapter harness combined with Hella plug works great too!
Doing both the Bosch pump with Mercedes plug costs about $110-115 total.
New Pump works better than dead pump.
I put the intercooler pump in yesterday.
Here are the Mercedes part numbers needed to build the plug that fits the 010 bosch pump:
Qty 1 of: 230-540-00-81 "COUPLING" - $2.70
Qty 2 of: 008-545-63-26 "PLUG" - $7.20 (total)
Qty 2 of: 000-54568-80 "RUBBER RIN" - $6.30 (total)
Total Price at local Mercedes dealer - $16.20
Note that better prices can be found online but I asked the clerk and it would be incredibly rude to use his time to get part numbers then go online to save $5.
This gets you the plastic connector, the little pins that you connect the wires to and insert into the connector, and the small rubber rings that you slide over the wire and when the wire is inserted into the connector it is the little seal that keeps water out.
I bought a $4 set of 127 pieces of heatshrink at harbor freight, and a $6 set of 40 various screw clamp hose clamps; since I was out of both at home. I used a soldering iron and wired my newly built Mercedes connector with tail into the old hella pigtail (black with Red is positive on the hella side, brown with black is negative on the hella side; the new Bosch pump is clearly labelled on the bottom which is which). Then I heatshrank it all.
Installation is easy and the required tools are really just a 8mm and 10mm socket AND a pair of open end wrenches; remove the air filter box; remove the 2 bolts holding the bracket holding the pump to the body of the car; remove the pump pigtail from the car wiring harness. I chose to simply cut the pigtail off the pump while still installed, then build my adapter connector, then work on removing the old pump off the car.
Put a big catch pan underneath as some coolant will drain. I removed the old pump from the body mounting bracket; this was two nuts. The new pump is bigger and the rubber insulator that was on the old pump can't be reused with the 010 bosch unit. Now the old pump is just dangling by the two hoses in the car. Get your new pump ready. Note the orientation of the hoses so that you minimize time orienting the new pump. If you get things swapped quick; including removing the old spring clamps and sliding on the new screw clamps; you'll minimize the amount of drained coolant. Then bolt everything back in, plug in your adapter harness you built, and then put your airbox; all that reassembly is oddly the reverse of removal!
Once everything is buttoned up; turn the ignition to on; but don't crank. You will hear the pump! Make sure nothing is leaking. Follow proper XKR procedure on coolant filling; this involves burping through the IC coolant plug and the coolant reservoir. I drove it around for about 20 minutes and never got a low coolant light. I always prefer checking one last time the next day whenever I mess with coolant on this system.
#3
11-25-2016, 07:03 PM
I posted this in the XK forum when I replaced my pump with the Bosch unit. If you are not rebuilding, or just doing to upgrade (I had it go and used it as an excuse). If you check the S&G Barratt catalogs, you'll see that the "Supercharger Coolant Pump" is the same exact part number, C2C1314, for the X100 XKR and the X308 XJR; so the below should definitely work the same for an XJR. Basically I created a quick little adapter harness to be 100% plug and play with the Bosch unit, with no soldering directly to the bosch intercooler pump.
Last edited by JTsmks; 11-25-2016 at 07:06 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Jhartz (11-26-2016)
#4
11-25-2016, 07:56 PM
Same pump from what I can see, however I believe the placement is completely different between the two models. And the Bosch would have to be spliced in, as he said above. Part numbers should work just fine to interchange though, if you're looking to go that route. Plus, cheaper than an OE Jag Pump is new I think. In my case, I was just changing from a dead pump, to another used, direct replacement.
The following users liked this post:
xjay8 (11-26-2016)
#6
11-26-2016, 01:34 PM
Veteran Member
I was. This one appears different from looking in the parts manuals. I see the one he is talking about appears as MJA6710AA. This is an auxilliary pump on the heating circuit. Denso made it.
#7
11-26-2016, 03:13 PM
Ah, my mistake. I just did a quick google on the Bosch part number, and at a glance at a picture it looked like possibly a replacement option for it. No worries, I'm a big enough man to admit when I've had too much cake. er, wait. no, I mean to admit when I was incorrect. 
I will say, I'm VERY glad I have heat now - after a total flush and refill, thermostat, and the pump working, I'm cooking now!
I will say, I'm VERY glad I have heat now - after a total flush and refill, thermostat, and the pump working, I'm cooking now!
