XJR died suddenly yesterday
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XJR died suddenly yesterday
My XJR died suddenly yesterday not far from home. I had it brought home by rollback. It's an electrical problem. The battery was totally dead. I removed it and charged it OK. Reinstalled, it shows a > 30 amp short somewhere. My multitester only goes to 10 amps, so I have been blowing 30 amp AGC fuses while looking for the short. I removed all the 40 amp relays in all the locations I could find. No luck so far. I suspected a bad alternator but someone in the forum said that would not cause this. Has anyone had a similar experience or have any suggestions?
Last edited by GGG; 03-20-2014 at 06:16 PM. Reason: copied question from Intro
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The following 2 users liked this post by WaterDragon:
King Charles (03-20-2014),
xjay8 (03-20-2014)
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Yeah, I didn't notice he was blowing fuses! So Gyro, is one of the car's fuses blowing or are you using an added fuse link for testing?
Do you have the schematic (look to the stickeys) and have you looked at the power distribution schematic? Actually, with the various fuse boxes, the X-308 is pretty easy to isolate a problem like this.
Do you know what we mean be "bulkehead" connectors? Actually, they are properly called "false bulkhead connectors" on the X-308 and they are the main power cables that terminate near the firewall.
BTW, I am GUESSING you have a shorted alternator diode.
Good luck.
Do you have the schematic (look to the stickeys) and have you looked at the power distribution schematic? Actually, with the various fuse boxes, the X-308 is pretty easy to isolate a problem like this.
Do you know what we mean be "bulkehead" connectors? Actually, they are properly called "false bulkhead connectors" on the X-308 and they are the main power cables that terminate near the firewall.
BTW, I am GUESSING you have a shorted alternator diode.
Good luck.
Last edited by sparkenzap; 03-21-2014 at 02:04 PM.
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Thanks and clarification
Thanks for the great advice - Sparkenzap, I'm not blowing fuses in the car but have a test probe with a fuse holder in-line. I've been taking out all the relays in a fuse compartment and then (with battery + connected) bridging from the battery negative post to ground with the probe and it blows the fuse ( 4 fuses so far ). So today I will try to take the alternator out of line and see what happens. Thanks for the test light advice. I bought a few boxes of fuses for this diagnosis. My idea was if it blows a 10 amp fuse but not a 20 amp then that would help me isolate the problem but so far it's blown all the 30s. If I disconnect the bulkhead connector and that eliminates the short does that mean the short is definitely in the alternator? Thanks again new friends.
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GGG (03-21-2014)
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Gyro:
No, not for sure, but you will at least resolve the problem to the front half of the car AND, the bulkhead connectors themselves are a potential short to ground. The have only a small platice insulator and if they have the common problem of getting loose, they will overheat and coul short to ground.
No, not for sure, but you will at least resolve the problem to the front half of the car AND, the bulkhead connectors themselves are a potential short to ground. The have only a small platice insulator and if they have the common problem of getting loose, they will overheat and coul short to ground.
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Bulkhead connector is OK
I disconnected the cable on the engine side of the bulkhead connector. The short is gone at the battery, but now blows the test fuse when I bridge the gap at the bulkhead connector with my test probe. Here's something else: When I ignore the short and hook up everything anyway the car will start but makes a new high pitched sound in the engine area. It sounds much like a power steering pump that's low on fluid. The pitch varies with engine RPM. Also get an electrical burning smell. Didn't leave it connected and running but a few seconds. Is this more evidence of a bad alternator. Thanks again for the help.
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GyroGearloose (03-22-2014)
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