XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 1997 - 2003

XJR engine broke down

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  #1  
Old 03-25-2012, 01:41 PM
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Default XJR engine broke down

Hi the great Jaguar community!
It' my first post and it's a pity with bad news. I bought Jaguar XJR made in 2001 and was excited about it less than a week only. The last day I wanted to see what this car can do and several minutes after hard driving the engine stalled, warning of low water level appeared. I drove home and cranked again when the engine was cool already. The I saw a thick white cloud going out the exhausts, the impression was that not all cylinders are working. Smoke has not disappeared. After short research I decided the head gasket was blown. It was the second time during 400 km driving I was getting the low cooling warning. Cooland piper were not becoming hard and I could not see any air bubbles or oil coming to the coolant tank.

I collected all info necessary for head gasket replacement. Also decided to make the tools by myself instead of buying them except crankshaft locking peg. Here are my findings during dismantling:
1) engine was built on 1999 07 14 - discovered later still with Nicasil
2) RH bank first spark plug (front of the vehicle) was fully sunk in the oil. All other spark plugs were most up to half height in the oil. Two spark plugs were burn (for one part of the electrode and for another electrode was missing at all and also part of ceramics was burnt)
3) air filter was clean, some oil was present in the pipe to the throttle
4) a lot of oil in the air intake elbow under the throttle (see pic.), oild was going down to EGR and to the exaust. Then I remembered the bad smell and smoke soming out of the engine compartment particularly from this place.
5) thick oil build-up inside all supercharger (see pic.)
6) both secondary timing chain tensioner were cracked, guides also showed sign of early cracks, primary tensioners OK
7) both head gasket I decided were blown in the same place at the edge with coolant section with fourth cylinders
8) RH first cylinder piston has been melted and the cylinder wall was damaged...
Then I understood I will not finish this job by myself. Initially was thinking to get the car to the workshop to replace the burnt piston, rings and replace the liner into steel one. However had concerns of so much oil coming to the supercharger and thought it was related to the worn Nicasil. Checked part load breather and the pipe coming to the throttle body elbow - not clogged.

After a week of thinking yesterday I bought another engine made in 2001. Seller told he had checked with Jaguar liners are in steel as well as tensioners (will check it later). The coming week engine replacement starts if our queue comes.

Will sell in part the old engine, heads seems to be OK, will check them fully. Another possibility - to remanufacture fully and sell for a good price, All later, now waiting the car to be repaired.

I wanted to change the engine by myself but realised it is not that easy as to replace the head gaskets. I learned in most cases the engine is removed together with the gearbox and taking them out from downside.

I would appreaciate you advices:
1) is it possible to remove the engine only by lifting it from the top?
2) do I understand correctly that the gearbox oil will be impacted/drained partially also because the pump will be disconnected?
3) if i tow the car with the rope for 1 km is it OK or it will damage the gearbox?

Thanks,
Mindaugas
 
Attached Thumbnails XJR engine broke down-oil-elbow.jpg   XJR engine broke down-supercharger-inside.jpg   XJR engine broke down-tensioners.jpg   XJR engine broke down-rh-head-gasket.jpg   XJR engine broke down-gasket.jpg  

XJR engine broke down-piston.jpg   XJR engine broke down-cylinder.jpg   XJR engine broke down-camshaft-locking-tool.jpg  
  #2  
Old 03-25-2012, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by mindugs
Hi the great Jaguar community!
It' my first post and it's a pity with bad news. I bought Jaguar XJR made in 2001 and was excited about it less than a week only. The last day I wanted to see what this car can do and several minutes after hard driving the engine stalled, warning of low water level appeared. I drove home and cranked again when the engine was cool already. The I saw a thick white cloud going out the exhausts, the impression was that not all cylinders are working. Smoke has not disappeared. After short research I decided the head gasket was blown. It was the second time during 400 km driving I was getting the low cooling warning. Cooland piper were not becoming hard and I could not see any air bubbles or oil coming to the coolant tank.

I collected all info necessary for head gasket replacement. Also decided to make the tools by myself instead of buying them except crankshaft locking peg. Here are my findings during dismantling:
1) engine was built on 1999 07 14 - discovered later still with Nicasil
2) RH bank first spark plug (front of the vehicle) was fully sunk in the oil. All other spark plugs were most up to half height in the oil. Two spark plugs were burn (for one part of the electrode and for another electrode was missing at all and also part of ceramics was burnt)
3) air filter was clean, some oil was present in the pipe to the throttle
4) a lot of oil in the air intake elbow under the throttle (see pic.), oild was going down to EGR and to the exaust. Then I remembered the bad smell and smoke soming out of the engine compartment particularly from this place.
5) thick oil build-up inside all supercharger (see pic.)
6) both secondary timing chain tensioner were cracked, guides also showed sign of early cracks, primary tensioners OK
7) both head gasket I decided were blown in the same place at the edge with coolant section with fourth cylinders
8) RH first cylinder piston has been melted and the cylinder wall was damaged...
Then I understood I will not finish this job by myself. Initially was thinking to get the car to the workshop to replace the burnt piston, rings and replace the liner into steel one. However had concerns of so much oil coming to the supercharger and thought it was related to the worn Nicasil. Checked part load breather and the pipe coming to the throttle body elbow - not clogged.

After a week of thinking yesterday I bought another engine made in 2001. Seller told he had checked with Jaguar liners are in steel as well as tensioners (will check it later). The coming week engine replacement starts if our queue comes.

Will sell in part the old engine, heads seems to be OK, will check them fully. Another possibility - to remanufacture fully and sell for a good price, All later, now waiting the car to be repaired.

I wanted to change the engine by myself but realised it is not that easy as to replace the head gaskets. I learned in most cases the engine is removed together with the gearbox and taking them out from downside.

I would appreaciate you advices:
1) is it possible to remove the engine only by lifting it from the top?
2) do I understand correctly that the gearbox oil will be impacted/drained partially also because the pump will be disconnected?
3) if i tow the car with the rope for 1 km is it OK or it will damage the gearbox?

Thanks,
Mindaugas

1. Yes it's possible.
2. What pump?
3.I don't know, but you could always disconnect the driveshaft at the rear differential to be safe. Takes 3 bolts.
 
  #3  
Old 03-25-2012, 02:16 PM
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Thank you Adam699 for so fast reply!

re 1. - I have JTIS and access to alldatadiy.com also was hunting arout all forums but could not find how to do that. Is it enough to unbolt the gearbox, to put something underneath to not to fall dawn and after all pipes and devices obstructing the engine lifting are removed I could do that? Do I have then to remove radiators(s)?

re 2. I saw one of pipes going from power steering pump to the gearbox, maybe I am wrong? Then is there a necessity to remove some of oil pipes connected to the gearbox which will lead later to the need to change/refill the gearbox oil later?

re 3. If I disconnect the driveshaft at the rear differential do I need to support it to not to fall down?
 
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Old 03-25-2012, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by mindugs
Thank you Adam699 for so fast reply!

re 1. - I have JTIS and access to alldatadiy.com also was hunting arout all forums but could not find how to do that. Is it enough to unbolt the gearbox, to put something underneath to not to fall dawn and after all pipes and devices obstructing the engine lifting are removed I could do that? Do I have then to remove radiators(s)?

re 2. I saw one of pipes going from power steering pump to the gearbox, maybe I am wrong? Then is there a necessity to remove some of oil pipes connected to the gearbox which will lead later to the need to change/refill the gearbox oil later?

re 3. If I disconnect the driveshaft at the rear differential do I need to support it to not to fall down?
Honestly, and this is the way I did it, remove the engine with the trans. It's way easier that way, you will thank me later. You need to remove the radiators and the cooler lines that go from the radiator to the trans go right by the power steering pump, this is where you got confused. (make sure you unbolt the torque converter from the flywheel/flexplate before pulling the assembly)

Look up my 4.0 to 4.2 swap thread and you will see how it comes out.

Also, make sure you inspect the engine mounts as they are known to fail.

As far as the drive shaft, I think it will sit on the exhaust but I'm not 100% sure. If it's really only 1KM I think I'd just slowly tow it.

You will not loose too much trans fluid. Putting some fresh fluid into the trans is not a bad idea. Do a search on that subject.
 
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Old 03-26-2012, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by adam699
Honestly, and this is the way I did it, remove the engine with the trans. It's way easier that way, you will thank me later. You need to remove the radiators and the cooler lines that go from the radiator to the trans go right by the power steering pump, this is where you got confused. (make sure you unbolt the torque converter from the flywheel/flexplate before pulling the assembly)

Look up my 4.0 to 4.2 swap thread and you will see how it comes out.

Also, make sure you inspect the engine mounts as they are known to fail.

As far as the drive shaft, I think it will sit on the exhaust but I'm not 100% sure. If it's really only 1KM I think I'd just slowly tow it.

You will not loose too much trans fluid. Putting some fresh fluid into the trans is not a bad idea. Do a search on that subject.
Where is this thread re the replacement engine options for us 1998 XJ8 motors?
 
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