XJR Engine Removal
#1
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The new year hasn't started off very good. Drove my wife's 1999 XJR to the shopping mall, about a 30 minute drive. After a short stay I went to start the car and it would not start. It would try to start but the idle would never get above 500 RPM. It's a 1999 XJR with only 23,466 miles, original engine, etc. Had it towed home!!!
My worst fear is timing chain tensioner/chain failure. I've looked through my JTIS copy but can't find the answer to this question. CAN THE ENGINE BE REMOVED WITHOUT REMOVING THE TRANSMISSION?
Next week I'll remove the cam covers and inspect the tensioners for damage. If there's damage I've decided to pull the engine and do a complete overhaul.
Any and all help would be most appreciated.
1999 XJR
1974 E-type OTS
1958 Mk VIII
My worst fear is timing chain tensioner/chain failure. I've looked through my JTIS copy but can't find the answer to this question. CAN THE ENGINE BE REMOVED WITHOUT REMOVING THE TRANSMISSION?
Next week I'll remove the cam covers and inspect the tensioners for damage. If there's damage I've decided to pull the engine and do a complete overhaul.
Any and all help would be most appreciated.
1999 XJR
1974 E-type OTS
1958 Mk VIII
#2
#3
#4
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Additional info on the engine problem. Car is only driven about 2500 miles a year. Second owner. Verified mileage when purchased coming off a 4 year lease with approximately 12,000 miles. Last six of VIN 875555.
When I tried to start the engine it would begin to start then die immediately. Made several attempts with same results. Tried starting while pumping accelerator pedal and it ran for about 5 seconds, would not idle, then died. Dealer replaced Throttle body assembly 2 years ago on factory recall.
This morning I listened in the trunk for fuel pump running but only heard relay. Does pump run continuously when on or is there a pressure shut-off switch? A bad fuel pump would be wonderful!!!!
Any other suggestions? Dealer says to disconnect battery for 5 minutes to reset computer. I'll try that next. Not going to attempt to start until I have a look at the tensioners/chains. Even with the low mileage they're still 10+ years old.
I'm keeping fingers crossed it's something other than the tensioners/chains.
Thanks for the help. Any suggestions on what to try next?
When I tried to start the engine it would begin to start then die immediately. Made several attempts with same results. Tried starting while pumping accelerator pedal and it ran for about 5 seconds, would not idle, then died. Dealer replaced Throttle body assembly 2 years ago on factory recall.
This morning I listened in the trunk for fuel pump running but only heard relay. Does pump run continuously when on or is there a pressure shut-off switch? A bad fuel pump would be wonderful!!!!
Any other suggestions? Dealer says to disconnect battery for 5 minutes to reset computer. I'll try that next. Not going to attempt to start until I have a look at the tensioners/chains. Even with the low mileage they're still 10+ years old.
I'm keeping fingers crossed it's something other than the tensioners/chains.
Thanks for the help. Any suggestions on what to try next?
#5
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The fuel pump is a great place to start. There has been issues with both the pumps and the in-the-tank wiring harness. The primary pump runs for a few seconds when the ignition is switched on. Might have someone turn the key with you in the trunk. Also check at the fuel rail valve (behind the right valve cover) for pressure but without a gauge that is not a real good test. Pressure should be above 41 psi.
Just read a nearby post with info new to me. Seems that if you pull the relay for the primary pump the ECU will set a code and turn the secondary pump on. That may start the car.
Might also scan through this check list:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=30792
The tensioners are easy to check, just a lot of plastic to remove. Having started, the worst case may be that the chain jumped 1 or 2 teeth but I would certainly eliminate the fuel first. There is no sensor reporting the fuel pump operation or pressure.
If you pull the valve covers to check cam timing, look for the forward cam flats to be almost aligned when turned by hand (wrench). They will normally be out of alignment only from the pressure of the valve springs on the cam lobes but then a tooth or too may look similar.
Just read a nearby post with info new to me. Seems that if you pull the relay for the primary pump the ECU will set a code and turn the secondary pump on. That may start the car.
Might also scan through this check list:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=30792
The tensioners are easy to check, just a lot of plastic to remove. Having started, the worst case may be that the chain jumped 1 or 2 teeth but I would certainly eliminate the fuel first. There is no sensor reporting the fuel pump operation or pressure.
If you pull the valve covers to check cam timing, look for the forward cam flats to be almost aligned when turned by hand (wrench). They will normally be out of alignment only from the pressure of the valve springs on the cam lobes but then a tooth or too may look similar.
#6
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Thanks for all the great help. I'll be back home Saturday and will go through the car, step by step, as per the listing you gave. It's a great, logical analysls. I'm just hoping it's something simple as the fuel pump. If it were a V12 or 4.2L I'm very familiar with them but all this electronic stuff is daunting. Oh well, must get it fixed. Thanks again. Will report what I find.
#7
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Finally tacked down why my wife's 1999 XJR would not start. After thinking the worst it turns out BOTH fuel pumps failed. The car is 10 years old and only has 23,600 original miles. Both pumps replaced and the car runs well. Will package up and mail back to Jaguar the old pumps. Quality Control?? Now to tackle the tensioner problems associated with '99 year model cars. Thanks for all the advice in tracking down this problem.
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#8
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@ov1pilot780
Hello Fellow XJ owner! Congrats on your fix there, sounds great! Thank goodness it wasn't the timing system! You can still fix it asap and never have to worry about your car again.
I have all the timing tools you will need for the timing chain replacement. the 4-piece set all you need, mint condition..only used once so yeah.
(Courtesy of Motorcarsltd for the link and pic to show lot and price)
http://www.motorcarsltd.com/V8.TIMING.TOOLS.html
Ill sell you my used once set (on my 98XJ8 when my mechanic did mine last year) for $150 shipped, that's over $130 off retail price!(Price there would be $330.67 shipped from Motorcarsltd)
4 Piece timing toolset - $150 shipped. (PayPal/Money Order only)
(You will have to have these tools for the Tensioner job)
Will add actual picture of set tomorrow, it's early! Let me know, that's a great price $180 off for a set used once in mint condition!
Hello Fellow XJ owner! Congrats on your fix there, sounds great! Thank goodness it wasn't the timing system! You can still fix it asap and never have to worry about your car again.
I have all the timing tools you will need for the timing chain replacement. the 4-piece set all you need, mint condition..only used once so yeah.
(Courtesy of Motorcarsltd for the link and pic to show lot and price)
http://www.motorcarsltd.com/V8.TIMING.TOOLS.html
Ill sell you my used once set (on my 98XJ8 when my mechanic did mine last year) for $150 shipped, that's over $130 off retail price!(Price there would be $330.67 shipped from Motorcarsltd)
4 Piece timing toolset - $150 shipped. (PayPal/Money Order only)
(You will have to have these tools for the Tensioner job)
Will add actual picture of set tomorrow, it's early! Let me know, that's a great price $180 off for a set used once in mint condition!
Last edited by NEWjagz; 02-07-2010 at 12:31 AM.
#9
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
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Finally tacked down why my wife's 1999 XJR would not start. After thinking the worst it turns out BOTH fuel pumps failed. The car is 10 years old and only has 23,600 original miles. Both pumps replaced and the car runs well. Will package up and mail back to Jaguar the old pumps. Quality Control?? Now to tackle the tensioner problems associated with '99 year model cars. Thanks for all the advice in tracking down this problem.
And like the previous post, replace your tensioners now before you do need an engine, the plastic and rubber parts in you car are 11 yrs old......
#10
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Hah yes he is right. I had mine done at 77500miles and couldn't be happier, hitting 95500 now. You have to admit, $150 for those tools are a damn good price :P Also brutal, you recommend the tranny flush at all if I may ask? I was thinking about it this summer.
Last edited by NEWjagz; 02-07-2010 at 04:58 PM. Reason: Transmission Time?
#11
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
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I drain and fill every vehicle I have. The reason we dont and many dealers dont is cause people dont do it often enough(wait till 100k) also would you believe people have transmission issues, come into a dealer to get a flush them blame them that the trans was fine before they did it and want a new tranny. ( and in some cases the trans was fine full of dirty, crappy fluid, then with new, clean, slicker fluid the seals that were used to sealing 80grit fluid cannot seal 320grit new fluid<<<<just a metaphor right there but you get the idea)......after a couple of those situations most shops and especially dealers feel its not worth the cost of a trans vs the $$$ made.
I on a personal(not business) note, disagree. Power steering is another 1 seldom done. if you dont keep cars long(more than a 3-4 years) dont worry about it. But this is another reason to maybe consider a drain and fill once a year. You should never have an issue adding 25% new fluid to old fluid as far as seals/clutches. I do a drain and fill on all my transmissions every 30k. new filter every 3rd and drain diff, power steering and coolant at 60k. I do brake fluid flush every set of front pads(usually works out to 30k and 2yrs.)
hope this helped give you some insite to my opinion
I on a personal(not business) note, disagree. Power steering is another 1 seldom done. if you dont keep cars long(more than a 3-4 years) dont worry about it. But this is another reason to maybe consider a drain and fill once a year. You should never have an issue adding 25% new fluid to old fluid as far as seals/clutches. I do a drain and fill on all my transmissions every 30k. new filter every 3rd and drain diff, power steering and coolant at 60k. I do brake fluid flush every set of front pads(usually works out to 30k and 2yrs.)
hope this helped give you some insite to my opinion
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