XJR head gasket repair, any and all advice welcome :-)
#21
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vwbusbits (11-17-2015)
#23
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The radiator is staying in place i think and i do not have access to air tools, so im guessing its into the transmission i go!
Thanks for the advice about not timing to TDC, i havent read that far into my book yet so was just typing blindly so thanks for the top tip :-)
Still after a bit of help of whether i need to set the timing before removing the chains, and how do i actually remove the chains?
cheers all for now, i really do appreciate the input from everyone.
Thanks for the advice about not timing to TDC, i havent read that far into my book yet so was just typing blindly so thanks for the top tip :-)
Still after a bit of help of whether i need to set the timing before removing the chains, and how do i actually remove the chains?
cheers all for now, i really do appreciate the input from everyone.
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vwbusbits (11-17-2015)
#26
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And once the timing chain cover is off whats the best way to remove the timing chains please.
I know that's a lot of asking but im really grateful for all the advice you and others have given so far.
cheers again, si.
#27
#28
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Hi mate, thanks for answering. I'm unsure if it's the same as the one in your link as that one has variable valve timing and I believe mine does not. If it's the same then happy days as its a very clear guide.
#29
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#31
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Hi again, right im back on the car again this week as i have now got my puller and my timing tool set has just arrived. Which side is the inspection window on the transmission please for me to get a lever up in there to lock it before trying to undo the crank pulley, mines a UK RHD.
cheers again, si.
cheers again, si.
#32
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#33
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Hi all, I know its been an age since my last post but thought i would give you all an update on the cars progress.
I finally finished the rebuild yesterday after other things constantly got in the way. It has taken approx 2 days solid graft but im there, except one small problem which i will mention later.
It was the head gasket gone on number 2 cylinder as suspected, always nice to see an actual problem when its stripped down. As well as doing the head gaskets on both sides i have renewed the timing chain guides and tensioner's, water pump and thermostat as well as a couple of water pipes whilst i was in the area.
All went back together very nicely and fired her up for the first time yesterday morning. After a few cranks she sprung into life but was revving around 2500 rpm intermittently, but that turned out to be me forgetting to push the TPS sensor wiring home properly!! Plugged it back in properly, cleared the fault code and whoosh, V8 power breathing life again :-)
I have never been so scared in all my life as i have never worked on such a big complicated engine before, the timing scared me half to death, but as it turned out it was not at all that bad.
Took her out on a test run and all was going smooth, then the dreaded engine coolant low warning appeared, nooooo!! Pulled over at my mates garage and it was leaking water like a tap! turns out it was coming from the coolant inlet pipe on the front of the block, just below the supercharger snout! a quick bit of dismantling showed the actual metal housing had cracked all the way through. I am now thinking this was the initial cause of the overheating and failed head gasket by the previous owner.
A quick call into Jag and £150 later i have ordered the new part which should be here tomorrow. So fingers crossed once that's replaced that will be mission accomplished.
Thanks to all those who have helped along the way, your advice has been invaluable.
cheers again, si.
I finally finished the rebuild yesterday after other things constantly got in the way. It has taken approx 2 days solid graft but im there, except one small problem which i will mention later.
It was the head gasket gone on number 2 cylinder as suspected, always nice to see an actual problem when its stripped down. As well as doing the head gaskets on both sides i have renewed the timing chain guides and tensioner's, water pump and thermostat as well as a couple of water pipes whilst i was in the area.
All went back together very nicely and fired her up for the first time yesterday morning. After a few cranks she sprung into life but was revving around 2500 rpm intermittently, but that turned out to be me forgetting to push the TPS sensor wiring home properly!! Plugged it back in properly, cleared the fault code and whoosh, V8 power breathing life again :-)
I have never been so scared in all my life as i have never worked on such a big complicated engine before, the timing scared me half to death, but as it turned out it was not at all that bad.
Took her out on a test run and all was going smooth, then the dreaded engine coolant low warning appeared, nooooo!! Pulled over at my mates garage and it was leaking water like a tap! turns out it was coming from the coolant inlet pipe on the front of the block, just below the supercharger snout! a quick bit of dismantling showed the actual metal housing had cracked all the way through. I am now thinking this was the initial cause of the overheating and failed head gasket by the previous owner.
A quick call into Jag and £150 later i have ordered the new part which should be here tomorrow. So fingers crossed once that's replaced that will be mission accomplished.
Thanks to all those who have helped along the way, your advice has been invaluable.
cheers again, si.
Last edited by vwbusbits; 02-17-2016 at 08:10 AM.
#34
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Nice Post, pity I saw it late.
another link below for special tool at USD 69, bought one the same for much more.
1997 2008 Jaguar V8 Timing Tool Kit 3 2 3 5 4 0 4 2L V8 XJ XF XK s Type | eBay
The tap for the cleaning out the balancer extraction holes is M6. and make sure you do not screw the threads of the extraction tool too far in and damage the timing casing.
thanks for posting back with the results.
another link below for special tool at USD 69, bought one the same for much more.
1997 2008 Jaguar V8 Timing Tool Kit 3 2 3 5 4 0 4 2L V8 XJ XF XK s Type | eBay
The tap for the cleaning out the balancer extraction holes is M6. and make sure you do not screw the threads of the extraction tool too far in and damage the timing casing.
thanks for posting back with the results.
#35
#36
#37
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Make sure the head is not cracked or warped. Be sure to use the correct bolt torque sequence. Not a bad idea to use it when removing bolts. When you star torqueing down I would suggest you get them just snug first then sequence the torqueing a few lbs. at time I don't know the final lbs. right off hand but I would not go more than 10/15 lbs. per sequence. This may sound a bit too picky to some but the way I see it is do it right the first time and you will most likely not have to do it over. Just my thoughts and I hope it helps.
Dave
Dave
#39
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A lot of head scratching layer I think I have found the cause of my rough running! Fitted new coolant inlet pipe & new plugs but stil a very rough idle. Git some wd40 out and started to spray around the charge coolers & fuel rails which made the engine rev up. A quick strip down later and I have found the injector seals I installed must have pinched when I bolted it all down as 2 on each side were compressed / split and well kippered!
New ones should be here tomorrow so fingers crossed that resolves the issue.
New ones should be here tomorrow so fingers crossed that resolves the issue.
#40
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
A lot of head scratching layer I think I have found the cause of my rough running! Fitted new coolant inlet pipe & new plugs but stil a very rough idle. Git some wd40 out and started to spray around the charge coolers & fuel rails which made the engine rev up. A quick strip down later and I have found the injector seals I installed must have pinched when I bolted it all down as 2 on each side were compressed / split and well kippered!
New ones should be here tomorrow so fingers crossed that resolves the issue.
New ones should be here tomorrow so fingers crossed that resolves the issue.