XJR Owners: Which would you choose?
#1
XJR Owners: Which would you choose?
Decisions decisions....
I have to two cars I am interested in but not sure which I would do.
A 1998 XJR with 99k vs a 2003 XJR 100 with 153k for $1500 less.
The 98 has been it's owner's baby for a few years. The timing chains have NOT been done. Suspension has been done. This is the second owner.
The '03 is immaculate except for a dent on the hood. Even the driver's seat is really nice. Not much is known about the history, but I'll buy a carfax on it first. I'll have to carfax to figure out the owner. Only one key.
AC works in both and both appear to be stock unmolested.
I know this is not a lot to go on, but I would appreciate some gut input.
For perspective:
- car I'm replacing is a '98 BMW 740i
- I do my own oil changes
- I've done transmission fluid/filter changes and lived to tell about it. (I know all about the "Sealed for life so you have to replace it sooner" transmissions.
- I've done Brakes, PS pumps and alternators on Isuzu 4x4s, Toyota Supra's, vans and a few others.
- Before computers, I studied electrical engineering and still play with electronics. CRC Electrical Contact Cleaner, Caig Pro Gold, and Motorcraft XL are my friends (and should be yours if you own a vehicle over 10 years old).
- I love the smell of gear oil in the morning.
The car would be a Semi daily driver not a garage queen (but it would be garaged). Probably 8k a year. Not my only vehicle.
I know, I'm nuts for even considering something as notoriously unreliable as a Jag, let alone a supercharged one, etc. Yes I already have a mother and an ex-wife, thank you.
I can see the '03 being a car I'm willing to put money into. I'm from the school of buy the car you want and keep fixing it for $2-3k a year vs paying $5k a year for a car that doesn't need fixed but you can't wait to get out of.
So..... which would YOU lean toward and why?
I have to two cars I am interested in but not sure which I would do.
A 1998 XJR with 99k vs a 2003 XJR 100 with 153k for $1500 less.
The 98 has been it's owner's baby for a few years. The timing chains have NOT been done. Suspension has been done. This is the second owner.
The '03 is immaculate except for a dent on the hood. Even the driver's seat is really nice. Not much is known about the history, but I'll buy a carfax on it first. I'll have to carfax to figure out the owner. Only one key.
AC works in both and both appear to be stock unmolested.
I know this is not a lot to go on, but I would appreciate some gut input.
For perspective:
- car I'm replacing is a '98 BMW 740i
- I do my own oil changes
- I've done transmission fluid/filter changes and lived to tell about it. (I know all about the "Sealed for life so you have to replace it sooner" transmissions.
- I've done Brakes, PS pumps and alternators on Isuzu 4x4s, Toyota Supra's, vans and a few others.
- Before computers, I studied electrical engineering and still play with electronics. CRC Electrical Contact Cleaner, Caig Pro Gold, and Motorcraft XL are my friends (and should be yours if you own a vehicle over 10 years old).
- I love the smell of gear oil in the morning.
The car would be a Semi daily driver not a garage queen (but it would be garaged). Probably 8k a year. Not my only vehicle.
I know, I'm nuts for even considering something as notoriously unreliable as a Jag, let alone a supercharged one, etc. Yes I already have a mother and an ex-wife, thank you.
I can see the '03 being a car I'm willing to put money into. I'm from the school of buy the car you want and keep fixing it for $2-3k a year vs paying $5k a year for a car that doesn't need fixed but you can't wait to get out of.
So..... which would YOU lean toward and why?
#2
I have a 1998 non-S/C had it for about 2 years, it has never broken down where it could not be driven normally while awaiting its fix. It has been one of the most reliable cars i have ever owned. I do about 10-12k a year in it daily driver.
When i brought it it had the original timing system and a nikisil engine it really was a 'off the production line' all completely stock. 50'000 miles from new one year confirmed only done 1500 miles. The first thing i did was replace the water pump myself for the new type easy job, then i did my own timing system really easy job if you take your time. The nikisil engine doesn't bother me as they only failed because of sulpher in petrol which, (in the uk) there not allowed to put it in anymore and i had a blow by test and passed as if it was new.
So dont be put off by the timing not being done as if you do it yourself its not an expensive or intensive job, go for what ever one you prefer or feel best in by all means, but so far i havent found any task that cant be done DIY style and ive had no issues with reliability. I would pick what ever one had the best history as a perfect looking car might have been abused all its life not serviced at the right time or done on the cheap ect whereas a shed of a looker might be the best mechanical car you'll ever own.
So go for what ever one has the best history behind it give it a detailed go over as no job is undo-able given the right amount of time and tools.
When i brought it it had the original timing system and a nikisil engine it really was a 'off the production line' all completely stock. 50'000 miles from new one year confirmed only done 1500 miles. The first thing i did was replace the water pump myself for the new type easy job, then i did my own timing system really easy job if you take your time. The nikisil engine doesn't bother me as they only failed because of sulpher in petrol which, (in the uk) there not allowed to put it in anymore and i had a blow by test and passed as if it was new.
So dont be put off by the timing not being done as if you do it yourself its not an expensive or intensive job, go for what ever one you prefer or feel best in by all means, but so far i havent found any task that cant be done DIY style and ive had no issues with reliability. I would pick what ever one had the best history as a perfect looking car might have been abused all its life not serviced at the right time or done on the cheap ect whereas a shed of a looker might be the best mechanical car you'll ever own.
So go for what ever one has the best history behind it give it a detailed go over as no job is undo-able given the right amount of time and tools.
#5
Potentially tough choice.
A bottom line differentiator is how do they run and drive. I would go with the "better" one if there is a difference. I have both a VDP and XJR. In general, XJ8s/VDPs were in a lot better shape than the XJRs as XJRs tend to be run hard and put away wet. I looked at nearly 20 XJRs when I bought mine and it was much more solid and tight than the others I drove. The $1500 difference doesn't mean much here if the prices are inline.
Assuming they drive the same, some things to consider:
One other piece of advice, if the XJR is a stretch economically, go for a XJ8 or VDP. The stock motor is still 300HP, so it is by no means a slow car. The non-S/C cars are also smoother in how they run and they just glide over the pavement. Generally speaking, I would expect XJ8s and VDPs to be in better shape than your average XJR and they should cost less to buy.
My with the caveat that I bought my VDP back in 2002 and XJR back in 2006 and know squat about the current market.
-Mike
A bottom line differentiator is how do they run and drive. I would go with the "better" one if there is a difference. I have both a VDP and XJR. In general, XJ8s/VDPs were in a lot better shape than the XJRs as XJRs tend to be run hard and put away wet. I looked at nearly 20 XJRs when I bought mine and it was much more solid and tight than the others I drove. The $1500 difference doesn't mean much here if the prices are inline.
Assuming they drive the same, some things to consider:
- The 2003 is 5 years newer than the 1998 - that means 5 years newer paint and rubber. Garaging could affect this. Pay close attention to the rubber condition around the glass and door handles.
- Once past 100K, these cars will need some maintenance. Between 100K and 116K my XJR needed a water pump, heater hoses, 3 way connector, front upper shock bushings, brake lines, and fuel pumps. I suspect that is what is in store for the '98. My XJR still needs lower front ball joints and could use a front end refresh. If the '03 has already had these things done, that's a plus for that car.
- The '03 has steel liners and no nikasil.
- The XJR100 will have fancy wheels and Brembos. The Brembos feel nice, but require the fancy wheels (which may be 19's, IIRC). Those fancy wheels are expensive to get fixed. I've got BBS Milan's on mine and I've already had to do a trim ring and the wheel centers need a refinish. The wheel centers are hypersilver and very difficult to redo. The "stock" XJR wheels are much easier to deal with. 19" tires will be more expensive than 18"s. Depending on your priorities and cost sensitivities, this one could go either way.
- I would weight the condition of the paint as well as the interior leather. My driver's seat needs work and it's difficult to source a XJR seatcover. I would lean towards a car with a better interior - provided it drives well.
- The '03 should already have updated tensioners. The '98 will need to have them done.
One other piece of advice, if the XJR is a stretch economically, go for a XJ8 or VDP. The stock motor is still 300HP, so it is by no means a slow car. The non-S/C cars are also smoother in how they run and they just glide over the pavement. Generally speaking, I would expect XJ8s and VDPs to be in better shape than your average XJR and they should cost less to buy.
My with the caveat that I bought my VDP back in 2002 and XJR back in 2006 and know squat about the current market.
-Mike
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SparkyGage (06-10-2015)
#7
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#8
XJR100's . . .
XJR100's were the 2002 model year. If your looking at a 2003MY, it's probably not an OEM 100. Reconstructed or made up to look like a 100 for the premium that an XJR100 would command. While X308's are great, reliable cars, I'd think twice about purchasing something that doesn't exist.
Later MY x308's are better than the early ones for a number of reasons expressed repeatedly on this forum, but the x308 body style is classic.
Good luck.
Later MY x308's are better than the early ones for a number of reasons expressed repeatedly on this forum, but the x308 body style is classic.
Good luck.
The following users liked this post:
SparkyGage (06-10-2015)
#9
XJR100's were the 2002 model year. If your looking at a 2003MY, it's probably not an OEM 100. Reconstructed or made up to look like a 100 for the premium that an XJR100 would command. While X308's are great, reliable cars, I'd think twice about purchasing something that doesn't exist.
Later MY x308's are better than the early ones for a number of reasons expressed repeatedly on this forum, but the x308 body style is classic.
Good luck.
Later MY x308's are better than the early ones for a number of reasons expressed repeatedly on this forum, but the x308 body style is classic.
Good luck.
For the moment I've decided against both and picked up a '95 xj6 with 69K (previous owner was 90). If the 03 XJR owner still has it when I sell two other cars I need to get gone, I'll make him an offer. It really needs $2k dropped in it right off the bat, but I think it would be a good driver/weekend car.
Thanks for all your input.
#10
Ding ding ding. Correct, it's not a 100, just XJR. I researched the VIN. What through me was it has all the obvious 100 accoutrements: Brembo's and Rims. The guy that has it didn't even know it was an XJR. The badges got stolen and he was about to put XJ SPORT badges on it.
For the moment I've decided against both and picked up a '95 xj6 with 69K (previous owner was 90). If the 03 XJR owner still has it when I sell two other cars I need to get gone, I'll make him an offer. It really needs $2k dropped in it right off the bat, but I think it would be a good driver/weekend car.
Thanks for all your input.
For the moment I've decided against both and picked up a '95 xj6 with 69K (previous owner was 90). If the 03 XJR owner still has it when I sell two other cars I need to get gone, I'll make him an offer. It really needs $2k dropped in it right off the bat, but I think it would be a good driver/weekend car.
Thanks for all your input.
I bought my 1998 XJR with 80k for $4100. Very nice condition other than 3 small dings(my dent guy made perfect for $100), dirty but excellent interior other than a sagging headliner, immaculate wheels, new tires in last 5k miles, brand new battery. It did not have later tensioners; which I immediately put in on getting it home. It did have service records.
I bought it from a dealer friend who took it on trade for a Lexus LS460L. His lot specialized in < 10yo Japanese cars, and a 17yo Jaguar wasn't really his thing. He just decided to sell it to me for a 1k profit (a ok with me, he's a friend, but has a business to run!).
I think you can find a good early XJR that needs nothing with 70-90k miles for as low as $5k to as much as 10k. I think you can get a really, really nice example for around $7k. For a 2003, add a few thousand to the low and high numbers, so more like 8-13k, where I think you can get a really nice car for 10-11k. $13k would be more special options, color combos and such. That's all speculation and there are outliers. There may be a $20k 03 XJR that's a steal of a deal due to what's been done.
#11
Ding ding ding. Correct, it's not a 100, just XJR. I researched the VIN. What through me was it has all the obvious 100 accoutrements: Brembo's and Rims. The guy that has it didn't even know it was an XJR. The badges got stolen and he was about to put XJ SPORT badges on it.
For the moment I've decided against both and picked up a '95 xj6 with 69K (previous owner was 90). If the 03 XJR owner still has it when I sell two other cars I need to get gone, I'll make him an offer. It really needs $2k dropped in it right off the bat, but I think it would be a good driver/weekend car.
Thanks for all your input.
For the moment I've decided against both and picked up a '95 xj6 with 69K (previous owner was 90). If the 03 XJR owner still has it when I sell two other cars I need to get gone, I'll make him an offer. It really needs $2k dropped in it right off the bat, but I think it would be a good driver/weekend car.
Thanks for all your input.
I passed on test driving an XJ6 a long time ago and regretted it - I've always wondered "what if".
-Mike
#12
These were 19", but the black seats did not have red piping.
Both cars are sub $7K asking. If the '03 is around after I get some space in the driveway and my truck is sorted, I may offer him $3500 provided everything seems solid enough. It's seen a lot of love through the years for sure, but it would be a project for sure. Anything more than that and I'll just wait for a convertible to present itself.
Both cars are sub $7K asking. If the '03 is around after I get some space in the driveway and my truck is sorted, I may offer him $3500 provided everything seems solid enough. It's seen a lot of love through the years for sure, but it would be a project for sure. Anything more than that and I'll just wait for a convertible to present itself.
#13
XJR 100 rims are . . .
XJR 100 rims are . . . 2 piece 19" BBS Montreals. 255/40/19 Pirelli's were stock. Had Black Betty at the dealership for some special work a few years back and one of the salesmen offered me $4K for the set. Declined as they are as integral to the XJR100's looks as is the Red piping.
I think someone recently tried to sell a set on eBay that he didn't need as he sold his Jag and was asking like $5.5K. They are rare, expensive to repair and special to the 100's.
I think someone recently tried to sell a set on eBay that he didn't need as he sold his Jag and was asking like $5.5K. They are rare, expensive to repair and special to the 100's.
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