Update to the previous response.

According to the chart issued by Jaguar prior to the latest changes regarding crippling the North American versions, when used with a Mongoose, the X308 series is "fully supported except for programming the ECM and TCM". The chart is back in the clone thread.

 

Hi Ross, I had a quick look on Google but didn't see anything I'd be tempted to download and install on my PC, I'll try again later. I'm currently downloading V132 (all 3GB of it!) to see if that made any difference, but seems like I'm going in the wrong direction here. From what your suggesting I should be going backwards to V129.

Hi Plums, You're spot on! The SPA_DVD131_V2 Calibration file munched away all afternoon, but the crash happened before this, and during an earlier JLR V130 install. You're also correct concerning the option to go legacy IDS after manually entering the VIN. However, the splash screen pops up for a couple of seconds, as though the programme was loading then 'nothing' the slash screen closes and you're back to square one..

FYI, If I enter the VIN of a later 2005 XJ I can proceed to the next stage which is requesting the Ignition switch to be turned to Position 2 without being asked for any username or password. And connection to the internet is available.

I shall spend some time browsing the 'Clone' thread after some shut eye - thank you

 

Try rebooting between each step of the install.

Be aware that the failed muppets who designed the software packaging do a couple of nasties during install. eg. silently removing McAfee Privacy if found. It's junk, but still ... dirty pool to uninstall software without notice. And instead of telling you to turn off tabbed browsing, they set a machine policy to disable tabbed browsing for all users. They *could* record the setting before launch, change to the required setting during operation and restore the previous setting on exit. But that would be far too complicated for their little pea sized brains to comprehend or implement even on a good day.

Oh, and do not install to any other path except the default. They offer you a choice, but it won't work because they forgot to update the hard coded path in some components. The space requirement on c: is closer to 12GB and not the 8GB quoted because they forgot to account for the space required for the data crunch. The muppets can't add either.

In general, the entire thing is a disaster in terms of software design. But it is the officially annointed crapware.

 

Plums - if you're not too taken with the software it would be better to come straight out and say so rather than beating about the bush !!

 

Can't find the bush ... they hid that too!

 

I have seldom so completely agreed with brother plums about anything!

 

had a similar RP problem with my own 1998 xjr, it did not show any codes, ran perfect. turned out to be the fourway plastic conecter on the vacum pipes that is in the center of the bulkhead behind the throttlebody. four 4mm x 50mm pieces of hard vacum pipe, one plastic dice later was fixed. drill the plastic dice through the 1 dot, turn 90degrees and drill through center dot of 3 with 4mm drill push in pipes with a little sealer job done.

 

Cheers Guys,

I'm not being defeatist here but I'm not prepared to waste any more valuable life on installing / uninstalling / reinstalling different versions of JLR software onto different laptops (Win 2000, Win XP Pro SP3, Win 7). On each version regardless of the OS I can only get as far entering the VIN, then being informed that symptom maps are not available for this car or I've entered an invalid VIN, and on some occasions seeing the IDS Legacy splash-screen popup for a couple of seconds then 'a big fat nothing'

On one occasion, I did far enough into the program by entering a made up VIN (which would have possibly suited a 2005 XJR) and I was able to view some of the tabs. One of them 'System Information' listed a summary of supported vehicles and clearly the X308 is omitted from the list. I must therefore assume I have wasted a significant amount of time trying to get the VCM to talk to a 99XJR!

I've had a read through the the 'Clone' thread. It appears I'm not alone here but nobody seems to have posted a solution.

The VCM Rotunda is going back and I'll have another go at procuring the Autoenginuity kit.

Thank you for your efforts on this particular subject.

 

Hi Andrew,
Thanks for the advice. I don't fully understand what you mean by 'dice' but I will nonetheless investigate things in this area.
Regards
Chris

 

dice as in cube with dots used in shooting craps amongst other games

 

Hi guys. I enjoyed reading all the posts about this issue. First, the comment that the crazy one doesn't know he's crazy is a perfect analogy. I just fixed a 96 Eldo with gauges and lights that went to sleep after about an hour of running. Lots of communication codes, but not one instrument (IPC) code. Pulled the cluster and checked the solder joints, and whoa, bad joints. Fixed that and put the problem to bed in less than 20 minutes.
So also, the ABS box problem is along the same lines. Fix the solder joints.

Now, here's a possibility: Check all the pins on the throttle body. I have had an RP come up on occasion. I just warm up the car and clear the code with my scanner. Since I tire of bs like this, I pulled all the connectors on the throttle body. Tightened pin tension, loaded the plugs with dielectric grease, and the problem is gone. This is a common problem with that body.

So, if you go with grounds, pin tension, and solder joints, you fix almost all problems out there. Throwing parts at a problem is garbage. As for the scanner, I have a little Matco unit I carry with me for consultations. It grabs a lot more codes and data than the big Snap On Modus. It was the only scanner available that did things like Rovers and Volvos. It was around $500 and well worth it. It even came up with IPC data. Remember, communication issues rarely show up with one code. It's usually numerous codes, all com related. And the big rule is the culprit never has a code. And you guys wonder why I miss my 55 Cadillac Fleetwood.

Good Luck, hope this has been some help.

 

Couldn't agree more when it comes to electrical faults-even the most annoying & serious faults are often caused by something simple in the electrical circuits.

Cars are a very hostile environment for electronics so you have to make sure the obvious basic faults have been eliminated, such as oxidised pins, connectors that have lost their 'spring' tension etc, loose ground connections & even fractured wires where looms pass through boot & door hinges.

I spent 22 years repairing electronic faults on avionics equipment...

A lot of the faults in failed car electronic control modules can be traced to simple fractured solder joints on the internal PCB's. Usually the joints fail on the big output drive transistors that switch the fuel injectors or ignition coils.

Other favourites are those connectors which solder to the PCB & have wiring harness plugs shoved into them. After repeated plugging & unplugging, the physical strain causes the solder joints to fracture where the socket pin meets the PCB.

Most car electronic modules have solder joints that are not really strong enough for the vehicle environment-the minimum amount of solder is used on the joints to make a good electrical contact, but for long-term mechanical strength the joints need a bigger amount of solder on them.

 

Hi Red. So you have my favorite car. The 96 is an awesome car. Once you get the valve cover gaskets updated, the brake pumps resealed and the injectors plugged, it's quite a nice car. When the new series hit in 94, we were inundated with those issues. I have no idea why they kept using the cork VC gaskets. The new system was far superior. Try kicking the turbo up to 21 lbs of boost with an upgraded intercooler. Put a 5' racing cat on the exhaust and hold on to your ***! I've done turbo upgrades, like ceramic bearings. The newer ones are water cooled, so this is a big help to stop the bearing from coking. Plus, the 4l80E transmission just puts it all together. A 2500 rpm stall converter will launch that car into the stratosphere. The lock up will stop the excess fuel consumption of a high stall. Install a Gil Younger dash2 shift kit, and you're going to grab rubber going into 2nd.

Your comments about electrical are dead on. Try my world...boats. Long runs, lots of corrosion and lots of idiots. Had a hell of a time chasing down a corrosion issue, until I found the ferrous bolts in the bonding system. Bad form old boy. I have a high respect for electrical current, especially low voltage current. It won't take much to shut it down.

Happy New Year, fellow Bentley man.

 

Many thanks for that!

I specifically wanted the Mk4 Turbo R as it had the later Zytek management system with more power & torque

I got the car a year ago & it needed some tidying-up to the interior. Then the head gaskets blew in summer so I pulled the top of the engine apart myself & replaced the gaskets. The job took me 3 weeks as there was so much stuff to remove & was thoroughly cleaning everything as I went along-I brushed the heads down with petrol & decoked the piston crowns & combustion chambers.

Goes like a rocket now with full compression on all 8 cylinders

The head gasket was breached on 1 bank by the water passage & was weakening in several other cylinders too. I found that the job had been done before by someone else who hadn't bothered to tighten up all the bolts on the exhaust manifolds...

I also found that the cylinder head bolts were all done up at different torques when I took the heads off! I mean, if you can afford a Bentley then you can afford a bloody Torque Wrench for God's sake

I actually had a bit of a race in summer with my mate to put the XJR up against the Turbo R with it's new head gaskets. We found a deserted stretch of Dual Carriageway in the hills of Central England-I was in the Bentley & my mate in my XJR Jag. After we pulled out the lay-by onto the main empty road, we both put the hammers down

The massively torquey Turbo R initially had the slight edge over the XJR, but gradually the XJR edged ahead-although I could hear the Jag's engine screaming it's nuts off to keep ahead of the Bentley. If my mate had sneezed or momentarily lost concentration, then I'd have had him

A completely pointless exercise but massive fun all the same-I really didn't buy those 2 cars for fuel economy & for being sensible with!

The Bentley engine sound is noticeably better than the Jag though, with a lower, heavier & deeper V8 rumbling bellow-the lighter Jag's more of a screamer.

My mate wanted to try the Jag as he's shorter & fatter than me-I'm taller & more lanky so liked the extra space in the Bentley! The Jag's very 'cosy' for me but I love it all the same

Oh yes, whoever did the head gaskets previously on my Bentley actually bothered to put the better rocker cover gaskets on-shame they didn't bother to get a bloody torque wrench too while they were at it!

Honestly-half the exhaust manifold bolts weren't tightened up & there were 'droppings' from where a 'rodent' had made a nest on the valley plate of the V!!!


I've thought about power mods to the Bentley but the only problem is that it's so big, this little island is so small & the roads so potholed & cramped with slow traffic already, that I'm on top of people in seconds if I give the Bentley the berries even in standard trim

The rain here has been so terrible this year that it's been nigh on impossible to have many full-throttle moments without ending up backwards in a hedge. Mind you, the Bentley does slide very gracefully when it's back-end lets go

 

Funny. The big boy does lose it very gracefully. Gives lots of warning, but once it's gone, you're just along for the ride...backwards. I hate lousy techs. Most work for the dealer here. I've had customers who kept the cars just to say they had one in the garage. When someone tells me their car is unreliable, I tell them to get a new tech. I've made many a happy owner over the years.

If you take the two mufflers off the pipes at the rear of the car, the sound and power wake up significantly. My car just whines at top end. With the exhaust done and maybe an airbox upgrade, she will positively roar. You should pull all your silencers off the Bentley and run the cat only. Sweeeeeet. What a roar. Although I'd be careful, that heavy car might make your island tip over! (we had a congressman say that once. what an idiot. wonder why we're in trouble over here?)

I'm glad your Bentley is up and running. I know why that job took 3 weeks. The configuration of the center throttle body and support bracket right at the firewall is obnoxious. And the big air boxes are tough to deal with as well. Throw a cling free sheet in the valley, and you won't have any more rodents. I'm surprised the wiring harness wasn't eaten. I get a lot of those.

Cheers

 

Yes, those 2 plenum chambers were 'fun' to remove-as were all the 8 ram pipes, because the centre ones had longer trumpet ends than the outer ones, so I couldn't just pull the plenum chambers up after loosening the bolts.

Refitting the ram pipes was an exercise in 'manual dexterity' as by the time the last 2 ram pipes were going on, there really wasn't much space to get the bolts in & tighten them up.

The central throttle body left it's mark with a series of scars on my hands due to the lack of space to access & rotate the nuts there...

Getting the heads off the block was slow & tricky, as they're secured by long studs in the block, so you can't just loosen the heads, remove bolts & then slide the heads upwards. Oh no, they have to be pulled the full length along the block studs to the point where the wide angle of a 90 degree V8 means the heads are getting very close to the chassis...

And as for those locking plates on the exhaust manifolds-about 1 inch of space to somehow bend back very sharp tabs before you can loosen the manifold bolts, which meant more scars to the hands!

Still, it was better than a £5000 GBP repair bill from a garage & this time I knew the bolts were torqued up correctly

 

Every time I hear someone talking about using head studs, I cringe. Your car is relatively new. You should try some of the older cars. First, did you actually look at the studs? They're shanked. The length is a smaller diameter than the thread. By a long shot. So, why is that a bad thing? Coolant seepage. It builds aluminum oxide in the gap between the stud and the head. When you go to take the head off, then the oxide wedges against the wider threaded part of the stud, and the head is locked about 1/2 inch off the deck. I've used 2 portapower units before to force the heads off. Once I had to sawzall a stud, it just wasn't going to go away. It's a very bad design. I've actually replaced several studs with the appropriate grade 8 bolt without any ill effects. Honestly, I don't see the big advantage to studs. In a lot of applications, studs would require removal of the engine to get heads off. I guess if you're running Nitromethane, you need them.

All cars operate on the principle, Never a dull moment.

 

Hey guys, sorry to jump on board a little late with this, but I figured I would search for other threads relevant to my topic before starting a new one.

Let me first say, reading this has confused the everloving crap out of me. So if someone 'in the know' would be so kind as to post the likely causes, likely solutions and estimated cost of fixing such problems, that would make my life a LOT easier.

So okay, I'm gonna keep this simple.

Around Christmas time, I purchased my 2001 XJR. Everything was good. I put it in the garage to hibernate for winter, only pulling it out a few times to drive it to the car wash and back. One of these times, the check engine light came on. It didn't seem to negatively affect the cars performance, so I figured I would worry about it in the spring. Last week, I took my car to the automatic wash and when the sprayers finished their job and I moved to the drier, the car went into RP mode upon start-up. After shutting off/re-starting the car twice, this problem disappeared and hasn't reoccured since. Today, I had the ECM scanned and it came up with 2 codes: P1638 and P1642 (which I now know are related to the CAN wiring between the ECM and cluster). When cleared, the codes immediately reappeared, however, there does not appear to be any adverse effects to performance. This is where I'm at. So before starting a new thread, I figured I would piggyback off this one.

Questions/comments/concern/HELP?

Dave

 

Hi Kids,

If you do NOT plug the scanner in after clearing the codes- then after it is unplugged start the car, does it run fine- no codes?

I have a similar issue, (althought it's an XK8) if I leave the scanner plugged in and run the engine boom- P1649. If I clear the codes with the engine off and unplug the scanner before running the engine everything is fine, no codes.

 

KidRock'n
Look at post #1 in earlier thread on recurring p1638 almost everyday:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...veryday-62726/

Replaced Instruction Cluster Pack (module) with used one almost 16 months ago (plug & play). Solved P1642 DTC issue.
Replaced TPS wires with gold ones kit 17 months ago. Solved P1638 issue.

Jim Lombardi