XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 1997 - 2003

Xjr stalled and won't stay running

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Old 01-07-2024, 01:24 PM
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Default Xjr stalled and won't stay running

I am new to this forum and have a problem with my 98xjr. Recently I took it to a mechanic in my small town because it it stalled on me. After about a week he told me it was a fuel pump issue and ordered both fuel pumps and replaced them. Returned my car two weeks later and I drove it home and parked. after two more weeks I decided to take her for a spin. She starts I put it in drive and she stalls. Had it towed back to mechanic after a month and a half he tells me it's probably electric but he can't read the schematics. Can anyone give me some insight on where to begin or should I check the next county for a mechanic...
 
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Old 01-07-2024, 02:15 PM
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Gus will have the Electrical Guide on his site. (jagrepair.com)
 
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Old 01-07-2024, 02:17 PM
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Before you do anything else, go introduce yourself in the new member section as it’s mandatory. Next you’ll want to go into your stats and enter your vehicle description and enter the mileage and/or any modifications done to your car. Knowing when you bought the car also helps. Yes, I do see that it’s a 98’ XJR but, for future posts and questions, members can just click on your username and see what you have without them having to ask you. At least which state you’re in does make a difference. It’s easier on everybody this way. 🙂

Anyways, if it was two weeks between when you drove it last until this time, I *highly suggest* putting a battery maintainer like a CTEK on it every time your done driving it for the day, week whatever. A strong 49H8 sized lead acid battery is what you need. If it’s more than about 3 years old, it might be time to replace it. Some people swear by it but, it doesn’t have to be a gel cell in order for it to be good.
 
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Old 01-08-2024, 03:54 AM
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Along with what A2B said, you have no idea what any PO's have or haven't done to her.
Make sure your battery terminals are clean. Any bit of corrosion on the cabling and you should replace that cable because that corrosion will deter the battery and alternator ability to do their jobs by minimizing voltage. The corrosion gets down into the copper down in the shielding. Remember, your running the length of the car, optimum voltage and amperage are a must on these cats. By not keeping an optimal charge you will get battery degradation and the acid will allow the corrosion to begin. Once its in the cabling, there is no getting it out, just replace it.

Good grounds are a must as well, most are fairly easy to check for cleanliness and secure fit and as Bob says, go to Jagrepair.com for the schematic locations. That lanyard ground cable can go bad as well, the car can die or have no power, ..I recently replaced mine. It is no longer a Jag replacement item, you'll have to go 3rd party. I got one off Amazon (
Amazon Amazon
) and rebuilt it using the existing connectors for a more OEM fit and look. The 3rd party connectors look just that, 3rd party and look ugly, if they fit. I probably should do a write up for the Sticky's on that.

I've used a Battery Tender (just an example of what I use, most are capable) on mine for the past 15 yrs or so...I have zero corrosion in those 15 yrs, had the car for 19. I got 9 yrs out of a recent Die Hard because of it and I replaced it with an AGM (absorbent glass mat) battery...definitely an upgrade. I travel extensively, thus my kitty can sit for weeks at a time. Like now, I've been out of town for 2 months.
 
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