As winter sets in I plan to do the timing chains on my wife's '99 XRJ - an immaculate garage queen with 35k miles. I've read many of the threads here on the subject and am wondering if there's any kind of consensus on who's parts to use. I replaced everything on my Mark 2 XJR project some years back while the engine was out, and that made it a simple job. At the time I used a kit from SNG Barratt, which I believe uses Japanese chains and aftermarket seals - 20k miles so far with no issues. Today that complete kit (upper/lower guides, chains, tensioners and seals) runs $941 - add about $200 for OEM seals. I see a number of retailers selling a Eurospare chain/tensioner/guide kit (unknown origin and no seals) for around $450 (similar kit at SNG is $620), and then there's the Chinese stuff on eBay for as low as $116 - that's all chains, tensioners and guides! I'm once again leaning toward the SNG kit with aftermarket seals since it's a known commodity for me, but I'd appreciate hearing from folks who have done this and their recommendations. I recall a not-so-recent thread from one of the techs who was very specific about using certain OEM components, but can't for the life of me find it. I also assume now is the time to replace spark plugs, water pump and thermostat. Thanks.

 

I can't answer your question, which brand of timing chain kit is best.
I found a timing chain kit for a 4.0L X308 on US ebay and had it sent to Australia for my 3.2L X308. This worked for me.

Maybe you find a bit of inspiration in my repair guide, even though I do not have VVT and I do not have a supercharger:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-swap-266724/

 

Considering the damage done if the chain fails, I want to be using a known brand. The extra cost is insurance against failure.

I've not done the job myself though.

 

I do agree that it is a bit worrying that the V8 engine is indeed an interference engine, yes.
But are there reports about breaking timing chains, which were cheaper than others?

 

Most have used the kit from Christopher; a guy here in Va Bch went to his neighborhood Lincoln dealer and got the kit the Lincoln LS -- same engine, high quality kit, cheaper.

 

I emailed Christopher yesterday asking where they source their components - waiting to hear back.
My local Jag specialist (top notch) had this to say when I asked about quality kits: We do not replace the chains, we just do the upper tensioners and new bolts.

And we get them from world pac (my edit - this is a wholesaler that uses mostly OEM suppliers)

And definitely use factory cam cover seals unless you want to do it twice.

When I did the motor going into my Mark 2 project (60k mi donor car) the lower guides were cracking, so I was very glad I pulled the lower chains. For me once you've gone this far it makes sense to replace the chains as well (as long as they're OEM quality). I just watched a video of a clean low mileage XK8 that broke an upper timing chain and trashed the motor. I'm not aware of any oil leaks from my aftermarket cam cover seals, but will have to look closely. Will report back if I hear from Christopher.

 

Every 'kit' I have seen for sale on the internet was the later style MORSE 'silent-running chain' guide set.

I only use the original tensioner blade/guide set from Lincoln or Jaguar.
NCA1998AB Guide (XW4Z6K297AA)
NCA2025AB Blade (XW4Z6L253AA)

Lincoln discontinued the blade (maybe the guide also) but Jaguar sells both. (about $400 for the set of 4)

If you buy Lincoln, get the parts 2000 to 2001 model year. (to 5/13/2001)
The later uses the SILENT RUNNING CHAIN just like Jaguar.

I just bought them on Monday from JLR for stock because someday they will be NLA.

I now have three sets of the 4 guide set (2 guides, 2 blades) so I am good for a few years.

 

Motorcarman, can you explain why you stick to OEM guides - I'm assuming the aftermarket is lesser quality? Also, do you recommend replacing chains on a 35k mile engine and if so any source recommended? Appreciate your opinions.

 

What's wrong with the later silent chains?

Also do people change the sprockets at the same time as the chains? coming from a lot of time with bikes I'm used to always doing chains & sprockets together or the new chain wears a lot faster to match the wear on the sprockets. Or is this less of a concern with a chain running in the clean environment inside an engine?

 

The later chain guides/blades are narrow compared to the original parts on the early engines.
I don't like how close to the edge the chains are with roller chains.

Use what you like!

 

Not a plug but a good video showing the differences between the various chain guides and why Jag or OEM are preferred.

 

I have NEVER seen a 'kit' with the original early style engine guides/blades!
They are ALWAYS the plastic covered aluminum guides/blades.

Rumor has it the later style will work but I still don't like them for roller chains.

 

The video above explains the issues, I wasn't aware of. So OK, the guides of the budget kit are something, where one may need to worry, if that design is a good idea...
But are the tensioners and the chains of the budget kit worrisome? It's not that the chains are made of Chinese plastic, but they are solid metal...

Hooli wrote/asked above:
>>> coming from a lot of time with bikes I'm used to always doing chains & sprockets together or the new chain wears a lot faster to match the wear on the sprockets.

I also have Bikes. I fully appreciate the question, and the exact same questions came to mind while I swapped my chains. The question is still lingering, but since my kit contained only the small sprockets and not the big ones, I was simply hoping that the ones selling the kits know, what they are doing and I swapped the small sprocket, biu not the big ones, which I did not have, obviously...

But also, I did my best to compare the old with the new sprockets for any sign of wear, but I could not see any, which but my mind at ease.

 

I have not seen significant wear on the roller chain components, just STRETCH.

Bathed in oil is a good thing for the chains.

 

There is NOTHING wrong with the Morse Style Chains.
The later engines use these chains.

The chains have......
Different Crank Sprockets.
Different Intake Cam Sprockets.
Different Guides/Blades.
Different Oil Pump.

You cannot just swap chains and other parts around.
Lots of different components in the design change.

 

> I have not seen significant wear on the roller chain components, just STRETCH.

That is what I was mentioning above: I did not see any wear on the little sprockets...
As I have motorbikes I know, how important it is, to not only swap the drive chain, but also the sprockets (front and rear), BECAUSE the drive chain stretches over time and then the chain wears off the sprockets. This is because the forces on the drive chain on a motorbike are immense. I would not suspect the forces to be that extreme on a timing chain. Hence, I would not expect the chain there to stretch. Hence, I would not really expect to see wear on the sprocket (which I indeed have not seen), Thus, back tracing this logic: If I don't see wear on the sprockets, I can't see, how the chains could have been stretched...

 

The chains STRETCH. I drape a new chain over a finger and the old chain next to it.
If the old chain is significantly longer than the new chain, it gets replaced.

If the engine is 'low mileage' then I try to reuse the chains (if they are NOT stretched) and replace the other parts with updated/new parts.
Chains with no 'stretch' are usually reused in my shop to save customers some money unless they are insistent on replacing EVERYTHING.(some do, some don't, their choice)

Cars with 40K or 50K miles usually have chains with virtually NO STRETCH.(just cracked tensioners, guides and blades)

The roller chains do not fail very often but I don't want a stretched chain 'slapping' around inside the timing cover.

The secondaries do fail when a tensioner 'shoe' becomes dislodged and gets caught in the cam sprocket causing a chain failure or break.

Never seen a failed primary chain yet but I'm sure it does happen.
I have seen plastic primary tensioners fail and the chain noise is SCARY.