I have not seen a how to on the XJR or XKR anywhere I keep reading in all the threads that there are various videos on YouTube, which I also cannot find. Am I inept at the Internet? I wanted to tackle it tow weekend however I wanted to see step by step the filling procedure was my biggest concern if someone wouldn't mind linking me if such a video or write up exists. I'll also be changing the connector just because it is cheap. Thanks so much look forward to letting you know how it goes.

 

The forst thing I would get hold of is a "service" dipstick. The info is in the archives here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ipstick-49656/

The dimension to make one is here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...est-xjr-63819/

You can get one on fleabay for less than $20.00 free shipping.

 

XJR Transmission Service Forum Threads:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...5-p1797-81813/
post# 7 Sean B mentions (read entire post# 7)
"the electronic connection from the selector to the gearbox? The fault is a leaking seal where the loom plugs into the side of the box, and there's an updated seal to fix it."

Also has weblink to Roadfly.com forum thread – part numbers and pricing
AT Plug Adapter Part #: W0133-1716768 Price: $6.95
OES Genuine AT Dipstick Part #: W0133-1610315 $58.95
A/T Fluid Part #: W0133-1633520 $14.95
All parts ordered form US Auto Parts Network, Inc. - USAutoParts.com
Total $80.95

Post also has a weblink to JTIS R&I on the XJR Transmission Guide Bushing repair.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...n-fluid-58651/
post# 45 – forum member Jaxkr
purchased the pan gasket & plug from the local Mercedes dealer for $45.00
shocked at how much cheaper the parts were from Mercedes, they are half the price I would pay as a dealer employee.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...sioners-37209/
XKR 2001 Transmission Oil change, O2 sensors, 2nd Tensioners (same transmission as XJR)
post# 1 by forum member simonnallen

Jim Lombardi

 

The other alternative method is to simply measure the volume of old fluid that you have drained off from the gearbox sump, and then refill the gearbox with the same amount of new oil through the dipstick tube.

True, it's not an accurate method if your gearbox level was incorrect before the change-but then if it's worked fine & there were no obvious fluid leaks whilst you've owned the car, then the risk of getting it wrong is small if your're careful.

How lucky do you feel

 

Excellent thanks guys believe I have everything even my dipstick

 

That's another reason why the XJR is preferable to the XJ8, because it actually has a transmission fluid filling tube at the top-so there's no wrestling around underneath with special fluid syringe pumps & getting an eyeful of fluid as you pump it in until it overflows down your arm etc...

Honestly, what kind of sadist thought THAT was a 'convenient' way to fill a gearbox

 

The one that told you it was "sealed for life".

 

Funny,....they don't tell you whose "life". Life of the gearbox for sure,...or translated in plain English, "don't service the thing until it dies (end of it's "life"), and then we will gladly sell you another one"!

Great cars (X308s) but engineered with "back end" profits in mind. Sure they would argue that all the plastic in the engine was there to "save the weight" (!!?). Like few ounces more in metal parts would make the difference on the 4L car? But they are not the only ones. You should see how S430 Benz is "engineered". Highschool kids could've designed the Airmatic system better, and I don't believe for a minute that it wasn't intentional (for back end profits!).

Long gone are the times when luxury automakers made cars that are solidly built, with quality materials. Now it's all about "how much money can we squezee out of this thing in service". "Lets design stuff that you can do only with the specialized tools (which we will sell at a good price to the diehard DIY types)". "Lets use PLASTIC in the high heat-high pressure systems, so they WILL fail after the reasonable amount of miles, after all, we don't want the people to drive these things for ten years or more trouble free, do we?"

It's a shame. Pretty soon we will all wear, drive, and consume disposable goods made in the Far East with the slave labor.

 

This method won't work for me I know I have a leak currently.

 

I saw somewhere that you can take a bicycle brake cable (or motorcycle) and cut/notch it at the right lengths and it can be used for a dipstick- cost effective and timely.

 

Yes on the brake cable. Find the jpg of the dimensions and mark the knob end of the cable with a piece of heat shrink. Push the other end down the tube. Withdraw and compare amount of fluid on the unmarked end with the heat shrink tube on the other end. Since there is no stop at the end of the "dip stick" you have to get a feel for when the cable has touched bottom.

Why not put the marked end down the tube? Because the heat shrink will soften and move or fall off into the pan. Not good.

It coils up small enough to be kept in the pocket of the vehicle maintenance manual on the side of the trunk. Works with any of the Merc transmissions.

 

There seem to be many bypasses for the dipstick I just had one shipped to my house off eBay for 17.98? Doesn't seem worth it to rig something. Or am I missing something. I purchased the one for the Benz 722.6 trans which is the same. Is this something I shouldn't use? And rig something up.

 

Just found this one also on Ebay (probably the same one as BMC Nut purchased or similiar) - brand is KTC Auto Tools - $17.99 free shipping - listing says it is equivalent to genuine Tool: MB part # J2024-110887 - also it is for Mercedes 722.6 transmissions. Full length: 1220mm

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Ben...item3a6b51222e

Here is the weblink to a jpeg file of the tool on my dropbox.com account (just click on the image after webpage opens to get a better view):

https://www.dropbox.com/s/c3uoplm35d...ol%20722.6.JPG

This image has a nice closeup showing the end of the dipstick - look like lower marking (25 degrees) upper marking (80 degrees).

Jim Lombardi

 

My $0.02..

As I've mentioned on this board before, I was a mechanic for Mercedes-Benz for 12 years therefore had my hands on a LOT of 722.6 gearboxes. Initially, MB called them "sealed for life" until we saw a rash of failures, not necessarily because of lack of service but because of an internal design flaw which seemed to affect some 'boxes but not others. I think it was more to do with the particular owner's driving style which meant a long-lived 'box or one that was spent early. Now, that being said, sometimes subsequent owners would bring high mileage cars in for trans fluid/filter services thinking they were doing right by the car (good on 'em, by the way) BUT; what we eventually discovered was that shortly after the service (this pertains to cars which never had a prior trans service, mind) the customer would be back, complaining of shifting issues and other maladies, and sometimes the car would come in on a hook with a dead transmission altogether. This happened enough times that we quit performing the service unless the customer signed the repair order with the understanding that we did not recommend this service due to mileage, however would perform it at the owner's wish.

On the flip side, we saw enough of these cars which were at 150-200K on their original fluid with absolutely zero problems. Strange to think that, and I couldn't believe it, but I witnessed it with my own eyes. Eventually, we decided that on low mileage cars, say 50K or less, we would recommend fluid/filter changes and keep them on 40-50K intervals. That seemed to be a good recipe and worked well with no ill-effects.

So in summary, if your XJR has some miles behind it, leave the transmission alone. That fluid is expensive ($15/litre from MB) and the grief you may cause yourself isn't worth it. My XJR has almost 220K on its original fluid and shifts absolutely beautifully, just like the oodles of Mercs I used to be around that behaved exactly the same at that sort of mileage. Oh, and I can absolutely confirm that these cars hadn't had their transmissions serviced elsewhere as our customers were a very loyal bunch and anyways, in those years, hardly anyone but the dealers had that silly flexible dipstick to accurately check the fluid level anyways. Not to mention, most CarX/Midas goofs couldn't figure out how to break the seal on the dipstick tube cap anyways

By the way, the line of thinking was that although the majority of the problems we saw were due to an internal bearing failure, the old fluid carried the "contaminants" around the 'box which seemed to keep the metallurgy inside the transmission happy. Yes, it sounds completely backwards I know, but the proof was in the putting, what can I say?

 

This only effected the 98' vintage R before the faulty bearing was updated? Do you know when this was addressed by Benz? (I've a very low miles 580 wondering if it's got a weak bearing)

My guess on weirdness after a service is missing something out in a rather exact process of servicing these trans. A wrong fluid, wrong temp, wrong filter, obvious stuff. If it's serviced with the right stuff they don't return.

 

Sean,

I do not recall when Mercedes sorted the problem. I do remember that eventually the replacement 'boxes were corrected.

As for the service; nope. We/I were very careful to follow protocol when servicing those 'boxes. Was never a case of wrong fluid/filter and those dipsticks were pretty accurate concerning fluid level.

 

I have heard that 722.6 got better bearings from about mid 1999. My gearbox ( car 3/99 ) was opened after 107K and all parts checked and cleaned. It was in perfect condition. Extra shiftpads were added to gears 1-4 and to the torque converter. The tech made his own "secret improvments" and added blue tops. Fluid: Mobile ATF 134. Now the tranny is "on-off" without any kind of slide on shifts.

 

Pulled the pan off tonight and filter. Looks good in there just dirty fluid. I tested my dipstick I purchased from ebay it is very very long on the top side, but when I inserted it, eventually it stops (with the pan removed). The position it stops is basically level with the valve body, looking from underneath I cannot read the high 80* level mark, but can see the 25* and the safe zone. It was time to go home. I want to replace the connector everyone is speaking of does someone have a picture of one removed from the car? I did not have time to get it out and wanted to purchase one from my local MB shop. But want to be sure I get the correct one, or is there only one it can be?? Thanks so much fellas I'll kep you posted I want to do some testing on the dipstick and be sure that is all it is supposed to go in, seems to have a positive stop with the tube to prevent it from going too far.

 

Here is an enlarged photo of the Mercedes Benz 722.6 Transmission Adapter Plug - part # 2035400253

https://www.dropbox.com/s/omowpk5gwn...%20Image.JPG?m You can enlarge the photo by using your internet browser zoom feature (say to 125%)

Here is the weblink to the part on the online Mercedes dealership webpage:
Mercedes-Benz Parts - Mercedes Parts Center - Call (800) 587-4863 for Genuine Mercedes Parts and Accessories

Dealership retail price is $15.

Jim Lombardi

 

does the same one work on a 1998 XJ8 L with the 4.0 v8?