So I need to replace the front ball joints on my 2002 XJR. If I take the arms off (vs. doing just the ball joints with the arms on the car) I figure I might as well do the bushings also. I have a press, angle grinder, Dremel, etc and have done bushings on my ’91 300ZX as well as bushings and ball joints on my previous ’92 E36 325is.

First off, I thought I had read that the XJR had stiffer bushings (like a BMW “M” model vs. a non-M), but when I search for bushings all I seem to find are bushings targeted at XJ/XJR. Is there a difference? Are there bushings that people recommend?

Any ball joints I should look for/avoid? This is my DD so it doesn’t need the ultimate in parts on it, but I don’t want cheap junk either.

Next, I was wondering if there are any sources for arms with new bushings and ball joints already installed that don’t cost a fortune? I don’t doubt I can do the bushings and ball joints, but I don’t want to put miles on my other “play” car if I get in a bind and it takes me longer than a weekend to get everything back together. I have a wife and 3 young children, so I don’t have endless time to wrench out in the garage either.

Thanks for any thoughts,

Mike

 

I went with Powerflex poly bushings in mine and can't be happier. I didn't do it myself but my Jag/LR indie mechanic did them and the ball joint top and bottom at the same time. He had a grand old time getting the old stuff out even with his press. He went with Jag OEM ball joints which were very comparably priced however even he was told they don't sell ball joints by the parts guy that he would need to buy the arm. Anyways 15k into the bushings and I couldn't be happier. Much tighter feel up front, no noise or squeaks just a bit more steering "feel" over the bumps.

 

Thanks for the input. I’m gunshy of the polyurethane bushings after installing them on my 300ZX. Granted I did a lot of other stuff too, like heim joints in place of some bushings and coilovers at the same time, but the ride really beats you up. I don’t need 2 cars that are rough riding.

Mike

 

I don't find it to be a nasty beat you up ride at all. Does get a bit unsettled over really rough pavement but for the most part I wouldn't think of going back and plan to do the XK8 in the spring. Wanna talk about a ride that beats ya up, try going poly everywhere on a TVR Tasmin, swapping out swaybar end links for rose jointed steel ones running low profile 16" wheels compared to the original 14s and putting a bearing in where the steering rack bulkhead bushing used to be.

 

That’s what I did to my Z Every control arm joint is either poly or “rose joints” as you call them, stiffer anti-sway bars F&R, poly diff, subframe and rack bushings, stiffer engine mounts, 16”->18” tires with low profile tires, stiff coilovers. It skitters over bumps now and it was actually faster around a bumpy off-ramp stock (~200 rwhp) than it is now with 463 rwhp and thousands and thousands of dollars worth of suspension and tire/wheel “upgrades” Honestly I think the biggest culprit is the coilovers and their valving. “Stiff” does not equal “fast”.

The Z is in a bit of a mess right now, but once she is back up and running I may have to throw some megabucks at the dampers (thinking JRZ or MCS customs) to see if I can bring some civility back to the chassis.

Mike

 

Many years ago now, I met Ken Tyrrell ( of formula one fame )
Asked him for some guidance about suspension set up and his reply was to change one thing at a time....
Always have a base line to work from, so that if you make things worse you can go back to that, and go another way.
If you do more than one adjustment or component change at a time, you don't know what one made things better ( or worse ).

 

Yeah, those mods were all incremental over the years. Think it started with anti-sway bars, then lowering springs and aftermarket shocks, then poly bushings once the stock stuff started wearing out, then I did 18x8.5 and 18x10 wheels and lowered the ride height with coilovers running higher spring rates which needed adjustable control arms (with the heim joints) to get the camber back in spec…..

When you are younger you have a different perception of what is “important” than later in life, lol. I’ve had the car going on 17 years now

It’s fantastic on a smooth road, but once you get broken pavement, bumps, etc, it really can’t keep the tires in contact with the road if you are pushing it. If you want to putter around at two-tenths it’s still fine. Large diameter, premium shocks with excellent valving should tie everything together and give me a tight ride without beating me up and letting the suspension do what it needs to to keep the tires in contact with the pavement.

Mike

 

I was looking at the JTIS as I have a knock in the left upper balljoint. It shows you exactly where to put two saw cuts in the upper balljoint, to make it easier to press out.

Just thought I'd mention it.