XJR X308 Stalls
#1
XJR X308 Stalls
I have a Jaguar X308 XJR from 2000. The car had a piston hole in the 8 cylinder. The engine has been completely refurbished with the heads too.
Now the car starts and after a few seconds it stalls.
Everything and think has already been checked.
Fuel pressure - ok (does not drop when startup)
Ignition coils - ok
Spark plugs - ok (new 8)
injectors - ok (does not cut off the signal)
Immo - ok
compression - 10-11 bar each
Camshaft sensors - check ok
Crankshaft sensor - check ok (new)
throttle - clean and works
In ECU no errors only P1000.
When the car starts, it don't cut off the injections, it also don't cut off the spark plugs.
Do you have any ideas what to check more? Why Jag still stalls after startup.
Sorry for my english.
Check video:
Now the car starts and after a few seconds it stalls.
Everything and think has already been checked.
Fuel pressure - ok (does not drop when startup)
Ignition coils - ok
Spark plugs - ok (new 8)
injectors - ok (does not cut off the signal)
Immo - ok
compression - 10-11 bar each
Camshaft sensors - check ok
Crankshaft sensor - check ok (new)
throttle - clean and works
In ECU no errors only P1000.
When the car starts, it don't cut off the injections, it also don't cut off the spark plugs.
Do you have any ideas what to check more? Why Jag still stalls after startup.
Sorry for my english.
Check video:
#3
P1000 is because of the service work you did and the engine not running long enough to complete the cycle check...so no concerns there.
After you verify what mobile1 suggested....and to his point, check the vacuum connections on either side of the elbow of the throttle body. Very common items to break and cause an air leak.
The line on the left is for your MAP sensor and the one on the right your the insert for your plastic brake line to the booster.
Yes this says AJ26, but the 27 is the same....
Could be the MAF also, ..easy test to do to find out.
Unplug the MAF
...ECU will go into default mode and send a code.
...default code will auto level fuel trims and air flow so the car will run in a limp mode. It will be derivable, just not under heavy acceleration.
If it still doesn't start after this, plug it back in, ...clear the code and we'll continue.
After you verify what mobile1 suggested....and to his point, check the vacuum connections on either side of the elbow of the throttle body. Very common items to break and cause an air leak.
The line on the left is for your MAP sensor and the one on the right your the insert for your plastic brake line to the booster.
Yes this says AJ26, but the 27 is the same....
Could be the MAF also, ..easy test to do to find out.
Unplug the MAF
...ECU will go into default mode and send a code.
...default code will auto level fuel trims and air flow so the car will run in a limp mode. It will be derivable, just not under heavy acceleration.
If it still doesn't start after this, plug it back in, ...clear the code and we'll continue.
The following 2 users liked this post by Highhorse:
hauserplenty (03-24-2020),
RA110623 (03-25-2020)
#4
#5
P1000 is because of the service work you did and the engine not running long enough to complete the cycle check...so no concerns there.
After you verify what mobile1 suggested....and to his point, check the vacuum connections on either side of the elbow of the throttle body. Very common items to break and cause an air leak.
The line on the left is for your MAP sensor and the one on the right your the insert for your plastic brake line to the booster.
Yes this says AJ26, but the 27 is the same....
Could be the MAF also, ..easy test to do to find out.
Unplug the MAF
...ECU will go into default mode and send a code.
...default code will auto level fuel trims and air flow so the car will run in a limp mode. It will be derivable, just not under heavy acceleration.
If it still doesn't start after this, plug it back in, ...clear the code and we'll continue.
After you verify what mobile1 suggested....and to his point, check the vacuum connections on either side of the elbow of the throttle body. Very common items to break and cause an air leak.
The line on the left is for your MAP sensor and the one on the right your the insert for your plastic brake line to the booster.
Yes this says AJ26, but the 27 is the same....
Could be the MAF also, ..easy test to do to find out.
Unplug the MAF
...ECU will go into default mode and send a code.
...default code will auto level fuel trims and air flow so the car will run in a limp mode. It will be derivable, just not under heavy acceleration.
If it still doesn't start after this, plug it back in, ...clear the code and we'll continue.
here is my connections of vacuum looks correct
#6
#7
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#12
I’m going to go out on a limb here. Find this connector on the firewall. Unbolt it and take the 2 halves apart.
I myself have smashed a pin or two down upon reinstalling. Make sure the pins are all straight and clean. The other thing that comes to mind is if the flywheel (or flex plate) was installed properly. I have seen one other car come into the shop that wouldn’t run and the careless tech had tightened the flywheel up after not having it clocked properly on the dowel. Last thing. When the intake camshafts were removed, were they marked for A.bank and B bank and put back in the exact same head that they originally came out of? I’m not sure 100% if this can be an issue or not.
#13
The LH and RH intake camshaft should be the same except that the slots for the reluctors (for the cam sensors) are positioned differently. If the cams are swapped left to right, both cam position sensor pulses will be very much out of synch with the crankshaft. Your suggestion is indeed a possibility.
#14
Unfortunately, that's not vacuum leak.
I recently worked at Jaguar a bit.
It startsup.
Unfortunately, engine working bad, rpms wave (like no working on all cyliders). After 5-10 minutes of engine work, the exhaust was all red as in the photo. It looks like it's not burning all the fuel. What do you think? I don't know what to think about it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFO4...ature=youtu.be
I recently worked at Jaguar a bit.
It startsup.
Unfortunately, engine working bad, rpms wave (like no working on all cyliders). After 5-10 minutes of engine work, the exhaust was all red as in the photo. It looks like it's not burning all the fuel. What do you think? I don't know what to think about it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFO4...ature=youtu.be
#15
Definitely sounds different than the 1st post. I know you say it has new plugs, but did you gap check them before installation? I never ever trust pregapped plugs.
Also, is it me or are your coil packs not secured in place?
...and I'm not doubting your skill, but is there a possibility the coil wire looms are crossed?
...it probably hasn't run enough, but have you scanned for any codes?
Also, is it me or are your coil packs not secured in place?
...and I'm not doubting your skill, but is there a possibility the coil wire looms are crossed?
...it probably hasn't run enough, but have you scanned for any codes?
Last edited by Highhorse; 04-06-2020 at 04:29 PM.
#16
What was the cause of your previous engine failure that it burned a hole in the piston? Did it overheat? We’re you running it hard?
When you put this engine back in, did you check to see if the catalytic converters were clear of previous engine damage (shrapnel) before bolting the exhaust back up?
Its quite possible your catalytic converters are clogged and/or your running very lean on fuel. I know you said fuel pressure wasn’t dropping off from your first post, but what is the pressure while running?
When you put this engine back in, did you check to see if the catalytic converters were clear of previous engine damage (shrapnel) before bolting the exhaust back up?
Its quite possible your catalytic converters are clogged and/or your running very lean on fuel. I know you said fuel pressure wasn’t dropping off from your first post, but what is the pressure while running?
#17
Here's a couple pdf's to review....yes the one is AJ26, but reviewing it can't hurt.
This one was too large to attach... http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Trai...ual-9-5-01.pdf
This one was too large to attach... http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Trai...ual-9-5-01.pdf
#18
Definitely sounds different than the 1st post. I know you say it has new plugs, but did you gap check them before installation? I never ever trust pregapped plugs.
Also, is it me or are your coil packs not secured in place?
...and I'm not doubting your skill, but is there a possibility the coil wire looms are crossed?
...it probably hasn't run enough, but have you scanned for any codes?
Also, is it me or are your coil packs not secured in place?
...and I'm not doubting your skill, but is there a possibility the coil wire looms are crossed?
...it probably hasn't run enough, but have you scanned for any codes?
On the video they not secured but all was before.
wire checked many times.
Today didn't scanned. I will do It tomorrow.
What was the cause of your previous engine failure that it burned a hole in the piston? Did it overheat? We’re you running it hard?
When you put this engine back in, did you check to see if the catalytic converters were clear of previous engine damage (shrapnel) before bolting the exhaust back up?
Its quite possible your catalytic converters are clogged and/or your running very lean on fuel. I know you said fuel pressure wasn’t dropping off from your first post, but what is the pressure while running?
When you put this engine back in, did you check to see if the catalytic converters were clear of previous engine damage (shrapnel) before bolting the exhaust back up?
Its quite possible your catalytic converters are clogged and/or your running very lean on fuel. I know you said fuel pressure wasn’t dropping off from your first post, but what is the pressure while running?
I tried to start up without catalytic converters and nothing change.
Fuel pressure all time 3bar
I have concerns about compression. the first piston hit isn't strong as in my second XJ 4.0. In the second one there is 6bar at the first hit, and in XJR there is only 4-5bar.
Last edited by jageer; 04-06-2020 at 05:30 PM.
#19
Since you ran the engine, did it set any new codes in the engine computer?
Also, did you check that big electrical connector that I showed you in pictures?
Also, who put the camshafts and timing chains in this engine? Was it you or somebody else? Can you confirm if the camshafts that came out of the old engine went back in exactly the same cylinder head when it went back together?
Was your other XJ car that your speaking about compression an XJ8 or XJR? The XJ8 engine had higher compression and the XJR has lower compression due to it being supercharged.
One more thought since you said it was your brother that had damaged the engine..... did he put the correct fuel back in the car? Maybe take a fuel sample?? I’m just trying to think from different angles here to try and help you out. I’ve seen a lot of weird things throughout my 27 years in the automotive repair industry.
Also, did you check that big electrical connector that I showed you in pictures?
Also, who put the camshafts and timing chains in this engine? Was it you or somebody else? Can you confirm if the camshafts that came out of the old engine went back in exactly the same cylinder head when it went back together?
Was your other XJ car that your speaking about compression an XJ8 or XJR? The XJ8 engine had higher compression and the XJR has lower compression due to it being supercharged.
One more thought since you said it was your brother that had damaged the engine..... did he put the correct fuel back in the car? Maybe take a fuel sample?? I’m just trying to think from different angles here to try and help you out. I’ve seen a lot of weird things throughout my 27 years in the automotive repair industry.
Last edited by Addicted2boost; 04-06-2020 at 06:31 PM.
#20
The exhaust manifold getting red hot suggests very lean mixture. If the fuel pressure is good while the engine is running, then the suspect are the injectors. A number of them may be partially clogged and this could have been the reason for the hole in piston. I would check the flow of all injectors. It is not easy as they are side feed but it can be done on a machine which has suitable adaptors.