Hey Guys,

I am an ex-BMW owner looking to buy a Jaguar. I will NEVER buy a "Broken Motor Work" again-don't even get me started on that topic. I have searched the Jaguar forums for the question I am about to ask but have found very limited information with respect to it. I was wondering whether any Jaguar brainiacs could give me some input with respect to these questions.

1) I know of course there is a performance difference between the XJR6 & XJR8 but in everyday driving, are the differences considerable? Or in other words, how do they compare?

2) I am primarily interested in the XJR6 because apparently, they are more reliable than the XJR8 models. Apparently, they do not suffer from the Nikisil lining issues, timing chain tensioner problems, thermostat problems and others. Would anyone be able to attest to which models are actually more reliable?

3) Transmissions problems are what I fear the most-that is what made me dump my 1999 BMW 540i with only 68,000 Miles!!! (I had it since new!) Are the gear boxes on these cars relatively durable? More importantly, does the transmission have a dipstick (BMW does not) and how often does one need to change the fluid?

4) What should I look for when inspecting the car other than the obvious? Are there particular areas within the car for which I should be especially concerned about?

5) Which one-the XJR6 or XJR8?

Thanks All!

 

2003 XJR

No tensioner problems, pretty solid. 0-60 in 5.0-5.3, with about 2k, you can get it up to 425 hp and be really happy. No XJR6 is coming close to that.

 

There is a good review of all the issues associated with these cars here:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=29800

I find that the NA car has more HP than I can use.

 

I agree with test point about the horsepower, and also, I do most, if not all of the work on my car and having a supercharger sitting on top just makes things more complicated. But if you want an XJR, I'd go with princemarko and get a 2003 since I believe all the known issues were taken care of by then.

 

With the XJR/6, I'd listen closely for signs of a differential problem. I don't think these diffs are as robust as on the older Jags. I replaced mine at only 70k miles. I'll admit, though, that I use all 322 hp at every opportunity so that might enter in.

Rear wheel bearings seem to be a bit weak on these X300 Jags....supercharged or not. Fortunately, replacement isn't too difficult. I replaced one at about 65k miles or so.

The suspension bushes seem to have a 100k mile life span. Worn bushings contribute to the notorious tramlining/camber chasing of these cars....something you'll learn about if you buy one.

Transmission mounts are a weak area...but an easy fix. The GM 4L80E transmission will take plenty of abuse in terms of absorbing power but I've never been convinced that they are particularly long lasting. If over 100k pay extra attention to the shifting, I'd say. The XJR/8 uses a MB trans which, from what I gather, isn't known for exceptionally long life, either. Others will chime in on that.

A couple of things to brace for: the lower radiator hose is very labor intensive to replace and, if original, is long past its "dispose of" date. Also, the throttle body is very difficult to service...and they do need servicing every few years (a high idle is one clue). Doing both jobs together eases the pain, as you can kill two birds with one stone.

For some us there's something a little special about a straigt-six jag. Silly, I know, but there you have it. And it still packs a bit of punch....0-60 in 6.5 seconds....so you won't be holding up traffic.

As with any used Jag, watch out for neglected cars....especially since these are reaching the age and mieleage where owners have given up on proper care. An exceptional example is usally worth the higher price.

I love mine....seems to do everything well. The only major repair has been the diff replacement. Some minor items have cropped up (water pump, radio problems, and the like) but not to the extent of dampening my enjoyment of the car.

One thing, purely subjective, is that I like the interior styling on the 6 cylinder cars better. I think Jaguar got carried away with the "swoops and curves" theme on the V8 models.

Cheers
DD

 

I have an 02 R now with 93K....it has been bulletproof. I bought it at 78K for $11K off ebay. I do all my own work. It's needed;
1. Lower rear shock bush....a bitch DIY but doable with patience.
2. Front Anti Roll Bar bushes.
3.!!!Wheels straightening.....they bend VERY easily and 3 of the 4 on my car were out. You feel EVERYTHING that isn't 110% on these cars so avoid potholes like your life depended on it!
4. Tires....last 25-30K if you are gentle and all the geometry is 110%!!!
5. I serviced the MB tranny myself....not hard, but you MUST use exactly the right MB fluid which you can get on ebay with a filter kit for $75.00 from a vendor who rebuilds 722.06 MB trannies all day. This tranny is used on lots of applications including the Dodge Sprinter Van, (all M mechanicals). It is a VERY sturdy transmission but should be serviced. Sealed for life means..."sealed till it fails at 100K....but you sold the car already so we don't care and neither do you...sir!"

Otherwise I LOVE this car....18-20mpg average and it does 25mpg highway on long runs!
It took me 2 years to find the right one...they are going to be classics without a doubt!

 

Thanks guys for all the great input!

I was thinking about purchasing a cheap 1995 Jaguar XJR which is priced at $2500. I do not think I will pay him quite that much however...I have read that the XJR6 models are more reliable since Jaguar has been building I6 engines for years and basically all the bugs had been sorted out. The car itself has a pristine interior and exterior wise, could use a little TLC for which I will list momentarily. The owner has replaced a large number of parts-brakes, tyres, supercharger coupling (I think?), water pump, thermostat and a bunch of other things I forgot.

Here are the problems with the car:
1) Rust around rear arches
2) Sagging headliner
3) Stone chip on that low front bumper
4) Probably needs new struts
5) New windshield wiper blade (fortunately there is only one to mess with!)
6) Sunroof shade gone wonky
7) Squeak upon start-up for which he promises to remedy upon purchase (fingers crossed)
8) Needs a good owner

The car is red-kind of like a cayenne red metallic like my Camaro.

Would you guys, based on this information, think this car is a decent buy? Also, just for kicks and giggles, how does that single wiper actually work in terms of performance?

 

I'd stay away from that like i would with a thai hooker coughing.

You are looking at thousands in repairs. You can pick up an 03 XJR under 10k.

 

Stickee...what kind of mileage does the 1995 XJ6R have on it?

 

theres nothing wrong with that car, The sunroof issue can be 1k if you need tracks and have to pay someone to do it. The squeeking on start is usually mistaken for a belt, but in reality is the rubber bond broken on the harmonic balancer. You can buy rebuilds from Motorcars tt Ken. Also a normally aspirated XJ8 is faster than a XJR 6 But they are reliable. I have 133k on mine with nothing but wear items.new belts, hoses, shocks, occasional leak here and there. The diffs are fine, but they need to be service to. man y people let seals keeps leaking unoticed till theyre low on lube and wipe the bearing. Outter bearings need to be serviced(greased just like the front) another thing people dont do and wonder why they fail.
I would buy an XJR 2000^ all day

 

The mileage is 106,000 Miles. It is located in Minnesota. I was thinking about picking it up tomorrow...anyone want to come and check it out for me? I do have many pictures of it but I am not sure how to attach them to this forum.

Anyways, the sunroof shade has gone off its tracks as I was told and it has all those problems I listed. I got some preliminary estimates on repairing that rust spot and bumper chips all together for $750 total. The front shocks are the only ones that require replacement and that would cost $300 for parts and labour.

I wonder-would it be a better buy to get an XJ8NA or an XJR6. I just want an everyday cruiser. I never really considered the XJ8NA but if they are just as quick, I might possibly because there are many cheap ones around. I do fear the reliability of the earlier V8 models. I have checked out several XJR8 models and when I ask for the service history for them, I am shocked at all the problems with them. The electronic module alone for the TRACS/ABS? system costs $1000 alone. In the records of another one, the owner had constant problems with starting the car. I hope the XJR6 will not be like that.

BTW-I used to have an MR2 Spyder with the license plate name of "Stickee" hence my username.

 

Hey stickee,
When uploading images from your computer use the following steps below :
1- New Reply
2- Just scroll down the page (if you use full window you don't need this ) you will see Attach Files just under Miscallenous Options
3- Click on Manage Attachments and you will see a new window pop open and insert the images you like using Browse and once you pick up the image and click on Upload .
4-After you are done with the images just click on "Close This Window"
That's all .

 

I would look for a preowned 1 in Texas or other southern states, cause "we aint got no rust he'ya"
the most common staritng issues on V8's was dirty throttles and part load breathers that lead to over rich condition and flooding on cold starts. keep the part load breather and throttle clean and then really the only issues are batteries and people either not maintaning them or not driving the cars

 

Well, I thought I would update you guys on whether I purchased that XJR or not since you were all good enough to give me some great input-I appreciate it.

Here is the verdict...I did not get it. (;_;)

The car was located in Duluth, MN and I am located in the SW Metro of Hennepin County-that means a distance of greater than 180 miles or at least 3 hours of driving. I had lengthy discussions with the owner of the car to get as clear of idea of the condition of the car as possible. One would expect at least a modicum of honesty when a potential buyer is about to embark on a rather long drive to see a car. And one would similarly expect maybe even more honesty when the owner of the car is a Copper...that was not so in this case.

I saw the car which looked ragged already from a distance. The car had far more rust erupting not only on the edge but also beneath the quarter panels. The body had dimples all over from hail which was not visible readily from the pictures. He never told me either. There were paint chips all over. The rear-driver side door handle did not work. Rusty grille...etc...

I looked over the interior. The power-steering feature did work contrary to what most people warned. Buttons were missing. Albeit the superficial observation appeared to make the car seem good enough but...there were many loose panels-that one for example covering the airbag and the plastic panel where the glove box should be. The driver side door panel came right off at the bottom as I shut it...plus, the sunroof did work but the shade was completely gone leaving bare metal.

I took the car for a short jaunt and was shocked when I started it up.

---The car made a loud exhaust roar...the driver side tailpipe was not working when I pressed my palm against it-no pressure against my hand. Clearly, the pipes were faulty allowing a substantial leak as well as potentially the backbox. The owner tried to fob me off by telling me that all supercharged models sound louder but not as loud as suppose a Honda Civic with a coffee can...it was seriously that loud-like an airplane!

---The squealing was loud and noticeable for which the owner blamed on the battery! (Yeah Right) I was annoyed the owner had warmed the car before I drove it for which I asked him not to do. Was he hiding something? My BMW would stall when you would attempt to drive it cold.

---As I drove, the car seemed alright but when I floored it, right down to the floor, the car accelerated no quicker than the Toyota RAV4 I drove over there. The engine seemed to lose steam abruptly above 3500 rpm. It was probably because the back pressure from the back box affected the performance. These cars should be reasonably quick right?

---The rotors were clearly warped-shaking upon braking. The power steering pump was probably upon death's door-got extremely heavy and whining at low speeds.

---Would you guys know-why is it that the car could not be started unless the shifter was wiggled around? It would not start unless the shifter was wiggled around in park-it was alarming.

---A bunch of other little things for which I cannot mention-no windshield washer function for windshield but for headlights, serious suspension clunking and etc...

Overall, I would not feel safe driving it back to the cities. It probably would not make it back to Minneapolis. Clearly, the car needed thousands of dollars in repairs to be driven safely. The owner could not produce the documents for his supposed repairs. I am disappointed that people cannot be honest, even when you make it clear that you are about to make a large time commitment to see their car. Why can't people just be honest?

Well, I would still consider a Jaguar. I just have to find the right one.

 

Sorry you made the long drive for nothing, but overall it was a good learning experience. It's amazing how unscrupulous people will try to pass off ominous symptoms as trivial issues when, most likely, they don't know what's really wrong.

Probably should ignore vehicles in which the sellers do not provide MANY pictures of exterior and interior from many angles and that purposely show the flaws...

Keep the faith and, with some patience, you will find your diamond in the rough.

 

I personally wouldnt even consider a Nothern market car. there are too many nice cars down here that never see salty roads in the winter and rust is a non issue. As I think someone mentioned earlier, find 1 if near perfect condition upfront, cause by the time you get it there, youll have spend WAY more money than the extra upfront cost on purchase. Contact southern sells or Texas cars direct. A plane flight cost to pick up a really nice 1 from them is better than a 200 mile local drive

 

You might also try posting a request for a forum member local to a prospect car to take a look.

On the same vain; I am still trying to find a home for a little orphaned '90 XJS V12 coupe with 72k miles sitting in the woods in North Georgia. An Atlanta car, is in very good condition for being 20 years old.

No benefit to me, just hate to see it sit there.