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Having transmission issues still..(2003 Vandenplas 4.0 na 126kilometrers)
The car is now showing a P0701 code. I have changed the power valve with a transgo kit and did the filter and oil change and replaced the tcm as per our local dealers print out.
As of today the Jaguar now is up in the air with the pan off. Last night I tested the solenoids for operation and resistance, all seem to be functional.
What else should I check before I put it back together? Can I check wire continuity from the TCM to the solenoids somehow?
Any suggestions?
Side notes:
When I bought the jag it was stuck in limp mode, I changed fluid and filter and installed transgo power valve no change. Took it to jag dealer they found the TCM defective. Interchanged an older TCM that the dealer approved and then it shifted, but once the transmission warmed up it would throw the p0701 code and would bang into gear.
Low windshield light is always on.
Trunk interior lights not illuminating.
Trunk release will work for a short time (5 Min span) if I remove and reinstall the 15amp fuse from the rear left fuse block.
What is your battery and battery cable conditions? Have you checked your grounds? The battery is very important for all functions in these saloons.
Hate to ask this, but have you checked the bulbs in the trunk? The cabling in earlier X308's in the trunk on the passenger side running along the arm is known for faults, which can effect your release and lights.
Hi
The battery is full charge and does not draw down past 12.3. Cables and grounds have been removed and contacts cleaned/filed.
trunk bulbs are operable but no note able voltage.
Cheers
Rick
I can't help you on the gearbox, but for the trunk, be sure on the wiring as mentioned, then maybe the switch.
It was so for me, with all weird symptoms, like coming on delayed, etc.
I can see how that effects the release too.
I twice sprayed it with contact cleaner, which is kind of impossible to do anyway, but problems always came back after a while.
Finally just changed it, and it is working for years ever since.
Ok, here's a PDF to review... X308 Electrical Troubleshooting Rev. 2.2(1).pdf ...I'm working on you stated it was in limp mode when you bought it. So if it was towed it may have set off the Inertia switch. But review the whole thing just in case, plus it doesn't hurt to have around for reference.
Read this thread, especially posts 2 & 5... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-lights-88876/ ...sorry the links for post 2 don't work, but the info resembles your issue. Post 5 has a pic which shows the breakage.
Thanks for the input on the trunk lights. When I looked at the wiring so neat and tidy on the right trunk hinge I was a little skeptical that anything was amiss. But crawled into the trunk and started to strip the electrical tape and wire casing, viola the broken wires.
Soldered it all back together and now all lights and trunk release working like new.
Thanks to all for the input into the trunk issues.
Now onto the shifting issue.
I have tested the solenoids and cleaned them with electrical contact cleaner and reinstalled the pan. Removed the ground strap between the engine and body and cleaned/sanded the mating surfaces and added solder to the strap ends (has anyone else see the notice on the strap where it says that if you remove it you must replace the strap with a new one, but you cannot read the warning until you remove the strap?)
I have the wire loom disconnected from the transmission cleaned with contact cleaner and will coat with dielectric grease and re-install. Should I be testing the pins on the connector? If so is there a procedure for this?
Looking for more input .
Cheers
R.A. Miller
You can test through the transmission connector at the transmission ECU connector . Reading pin 53 to 30/32/33 pairs should read the same resistance , as well as 52 to 5/1/29/4/51 pairs . Pin 14 to 42 pair and 16 to 44 pair should read about 1300 ohms . And pins 20 to 21 should read about at 2500 ohms at 68 degree F / 20 degree C
Editing
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 11-25-2017 at 01:34 PM.
I have the wire loom disconnected from the transmission cleaned with contact cleaner and will coat with dielectric grease and re-install.
Hi Rick,
When you coat the connector with dielectric grease, only apply it to the outside of the male part of the connector, not to any of the pins. Since dielectric grease is an insulator, it can interfere with the proper operation of the sensitive electrical circuits.
Regarding the P0701 code, according to the DTC Summaries, the possible causes are:
1. Dynamic Stability Control fault (check for DSC DTCs);
2. Transmission Control Module / Control valve failure
You don't mention any DSC diagnostic trouble codes, but problems with the ABS/DSC/Traction Control system can cause transmission performance issues because the ECM and TCM rely on the speed signal from the ABS module to perform smooth gearshifts. If you've had any DSC codes, please post them here.
It would be worth cleaning the TCM electrical connector (don't assume the dealership did this when they installed the new TCM), and also the ground referenced by the TCM, the "Left Hand Engine Management System Ground Stud" in the engine bay.
While you have the transmission pan off, you could test all the solenoids/valves for operation by disconnecting each one and briefly connecting a 9V battery. If they all seem to work properly, you could remove the solenoids and check the condition of their O-rings, although you might have to remove the valve body in order to remove the solenoids - Sorry but I can't remember.
Search the forum for the P0701 code - I seem to recall that at least one member corrected this with a rebuilt valve body, but again, I may not be remembering correctly.
Finally transmission problem SOLVED
After another trip to an independent jaguar specialist my problem was diagnosed as a A Drum failure. Total on this visit was $450.00. He quoted me up to $6000.00 to R&R and fix.
As this was out of my budget and frankly too much money as I have found a local transmission supply house quoting me $120.00 for a new drum.
To me it still did not seem like the problem as when the car was cold it shifted sort of fine, but as it warmed up it would seem like typical A Drum failure and should have had the updated A Drum already.
I found a local import transmission shop here in Edmonton and explained the typical driveability of the Jag. He agreed to pull the transmission and replace the A Drum for $1200.00 sounded to good to be true. As it turns out the A Drum was good but one of the O-Rings had failed and also on of the thrust bearings required replacement. Total bill was $1300.00 plus tax. The transmission works finally, but it has taken almost a year and a couple of diagnosis to get here.... Now onto the leaking oil pan and figure out why the back end seems to sway from side to side when going over bumps, oh yes and find a fog light and oh yes the missing horizontal slat on the lower grill and oh yes the broken headlight washer... Sheesh good thing I like to tinker.
Best part no more codes well except P1000 and the low w/washer fluid light.
And a thank you to all the people with the helpful tips.
Cheers
Rick M
Congrats Rick, too bad it cost what it did...but as most people would complain it cost that much because its a Jag. That is the general cost of trans removal and repair, its simply a matter of labor.
As for your search for parts, check the Marketplace in the top left task bar. Many members piecing out cars there. Also, this has been a very helpful place to chase parts for me (and couple other members)... Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market
I had to replace my fog light about 12 yrs ago and it ran me $95 new from a inde' shop. That slat is readily available, the headlight washer is one you'll have to chase.
Another good place to get parts (new, overages) is... Jaguar Parts - EverydayXJ ..really good prompt service from David.
Did they replace the main pressure regulator with the upgraded one as that causes the A drum failure on the 5HP24 ? If not it's easy to do through the oil pan .
Hi,
I've got a 2001 VDP and am looking to do the same (Solenoid and Pressure Valve Check or replacement) as I have a P0741 Code.
Any instructions or write-ups on how to remove them and so on?
11-23-2017, 03:20 PM
ZF 5HP24 things to test
