1990 Jaguar Xj40 no crank no start
#1
1990 Jaguar Xj40 no crank no start
Im new to jaguar and have a 1990 (the sticker on the door says 1/90), went to start it and nothing. I thought it was a dead battery but replaced it and still nothing, no lights nothing on dash at all. The only thing im getting is an audible sound that changes tone when changing the headlight switch. Im not new to cars but this just baffles me. I looked under the steering wheel and I see the jaguar security system and a bunch of white wires connectors with tags interconnecting between colored wires and and a yellow 2 wire connector thats not connected, any help would e greatly appreciated
#2
Welcome to the Forum.
Please take time to visit
New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
and introduce yourself so we can all say 'Hello'
If ignition independent things like sidelights don't work then it's not a security thing.
If you look in the HOW TO's at the top of this section and follow DOWNLOADS you'll find some useful info.
Then it's out with the voltmeter and find the bad connection !
Please take time to visit
New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
and introduce yourself so we can all say 'Hello'
If ignition independent things like sidelights don't work then it's not a security thing.
If you look in the HOW TO's at the top of this section and follow DOWNLOADS you'll find some useful info.
Then it's out with the voltmeter and find the bad connection !
#3
Chance,
Sounds like a problem I had not long ago.
Does the vehicle start with a boost or jump start?
Regarding the audible speaker being affected when you turn the light assembly, I suspect there is an issue with the light switch. Do this; when the audible is sounding, be at the passenger fuse box and pull fuse #10 - Auxiliary Circuit. There are several items on this circuit including the light switch assembly. Removing the fuse should knock out the audible, which is probably draining your battery. This is only a temporary measure, until you either repair or replace the light switch assembly. I had to use the remove & replace method for several weeks whenever I parked the vehicle so the battery would be okay when I drove it again. If you're tempted to drive around with the fuse removed.... bad news... it supplies one of the circuits required for the AC blowers to operate. (I'm assuming your vehicle's circuit is either exact or very close to mine, I have an '89)
Be aware, there are other items on that circuit which could also be contributing to the draw down of your battery. Another likely suspect is the door lock heaters. Not sure if you have them, I do and my vehicle originated in southern California. It looks like your in Texas, so you may not need them, especially if the car is garaged. You will need to either remove the door panels, or locate the relay under the glove box (have to remove the knee bolster) and remove it, which is probably an easier choice.
I'm throwing this scenario out because I'm dealing with the same exact symptoms, just haven't had time to fix the light switch assembly.
From your description, I bet when you open the drivers door the audible speaker sounds as if the lights were left on, and it isn't always consistent in it's behavior.
Another possibility which will drive the audible speaker is the linear switch located inside the center console. Are you having any issues when you move the gearshift lever out of or into park?
Be sure to answer my first question. Need to determine if you have a parasitic draw, or if the issue is affiliated with the initial starting circuit, though it doesn't sound like it from your description.
Sounds like a problem I had not long ago.
Does the vehicle start with a boost or jump start?
Regarding the audible speaker being affected when you turn the light assembly, I suspect there is an issue with the light switch. Do this; when the audible is sounding, be at the passenger fuse box and pull fuse #10 - Auxiliary Circuit. There are several items on this circuit including the light switch assembly. Removing the fuse should knock out the audible, which is probably draining your battery. This is only a temporary measure, until you either repair or replace the light switch assembly. I had to use the remove & replace method for several weeks whenever I parked the vehicle so the battery would be okay when I drove it again. If you're tempted to drive around with the fuse removed.... bad news... it supplies one of the circuits required for the AC blowers to operate. (I'm assuming your vehicle's circuit is either exact or very close to mine, I have an '89)
Be aware, there are other items on that circuit which could also be contributing to the draw down of your battery. Another likely suspect is the door lock heaters. Not sure if you have them, I do and my vehicle originated in southern California. It looks like your in Texas, so you may not need them, especially if the car is garaged. You will need to either remove the door panels, or locate the relay under the glove box (have to remove the knee bolster) and remove it, which is probably an easier choice.
I'm throwing this scenario out because I'm dealing with the same exact symptoms, just haven't had time to fix the light switch assembly.
From your description, I bet when you open the drivers door the audible speaker sounds as if the lights were left on, and it isn't always consistent in it's behavior.
Another possibility which will drive the audible speaker is the linear switch located inside the center console. Are you having any issues when you move the gearshift lever out of or into park?
Be sure to answer my first question. Need to determine if you have a parasitic draw, or if the issue is affiliated with the initial starting circuit, though it doesn't sound like it from your description.
Im new to jaguar and have a 1990 (the sticker on the door says 1/90), went to start it and nothing. I thought it was a dead battery but replaced it and still nothing, no lights nothing on dash at all. The only thing im getting is an audible sound that changes tone when changing the headlight switch. Im not new to cars but this just baffles me. I looked under the steering wheel and I see the jaguar security system and a bunch of white wires connectors with tags interconnecting between colored wires and and a yellow 2 wire connector thats not connected, any help would e greatly appreciated
Last edited by Rob Evenson; 06-13-2013 at 05:23 PM.
#5
Steve,
I hear you, but I still would like to know if he attempted a jump start. His symptoms are almost identical to mine.
Further, I asked about the linear switch, if its out of alignment, you get nothing when you turn the key. We have to start eliminating some things in order to get some sort of direction to go in.
I hear you, but I still would like to know if he attempted a jump start. His symptoms are almost identical to mine.
Further, I asked about the linear switch, if its out of alignment, you get nothing when you turn the key. We have to start eliminating some things in order to get some sort of direction to go in.
#6
Thanks for the replies, it will not start with a jump box, Ive checked with a voltmeter and it only seems to apply around 3V to accessories with the jump box on. Ive used a power probe and can use it to apply voltage to the positive cable and it will power up the accessories to around 8V. I know the jump box is good becuase it is a decent jump box and i use it at work all the time.
#7
Chance,
Hmm.... I must be missing something. A minimum requirement to crack the engine will be no less than 10 volts.
You may want to check the negative ground for the battery. Not sure where it's located on your vehicle, will probably need to pull the battery and trace it and ensure the ground is cleaned and secured. Closely examine the positive cable as well.
How many volts does the new battery provide with the car at rest?
When you have the jump box connected and ready for the jump, what is the reading on the vehicle dash volt monitor with the key in position II (not cranking the engine)? Or if there is no reading on any of the dash monitors, then there must be a problem with the ground, or the main CPU is out, hope that's not the case.
Hmm.... I must be missing something. A minimum requirement to crack the engine will be no less than 10 volts.
You may want to check the negative ground for the battery. Not sure where it's located on your vehicle, will probably need to pull the battery and trace it and ensure the ground is cleaned and secured. Closely examine the positive cable as well.
How many volts does the new battery provide with the car at rest?
When you have the jump box connected and ready for the jump, what is the reading on the vehicle dash volt monitor with the key in position II (not cranking the engine)? Or if there is no reading on any of the dash monitors, then there must be a problem with the ground, or the main CPU is out, hope that's not the case.
Thanks for the replies, it will not start with a jump box, Ive checked with a voltmeter and it only seems to apply around 3V to accessories with the jump box on. Ive used a power probe and can use it to apply voltage to the positive cable and it will power up the accessories to around 8V. I know the jump box is good becuase it is a decent jump box and i use it at work all the time.
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