Hi Trick, Your last post on this was extremely helpful, particularly for anyone, like myself, whose electrical knowledge rivals that of neolithic man.....Thank you......Roger....... I wish I knew how to put it into 'favourites'.

 

Cleaned the injectors, put them back on the fuel rail and tried without putting them into the block. Only dribble of fuel came out of a couple, which is better than last night. I have tried a new "noid" and this one is better quality and it is definitely blinking reguardless of which injector I try it on. I will not be able to test the fuel pressure until Tuesday, but when I crank the motor with the return line fitting loose it sprays fuel profusely all over the place, of course none is going out the injectors. While cranking the engine with the injectors out if I spray ether through any of the block openings it fires up right away. I checked the resistance across the injectors and I guess its about 2 or 3 ohms. That's just so low on my meter's scale it is hard to read (x10 Ohms is smallest it goes so 2 or 3 is a millionth of an inch from zero)
Rex

 

kind sirs, my friends and I work often on a 900 hp puller truck and we have arrived at shows only to have a no start situation. Turns out a wire was shorted out going to the ignition. It would still turn over but no go.

 

I'm glad to read you related to what I wrote earlier, Roger.

~~~~~~~~

Rex,

You didn't mention if you got all of the injectors to "click" on battery power?

The NOID test is showing your getting a signal.

BTW where did you get the new tester? How about telling us the part number and price.

Based on our email exchange, I still think your injectors are plugged due to fuel contamination. Four are BLOCKED and the other two are dribbling because there is RESTRICTED FLOW in them.

Care to share how you cleaned them?

I've put some email extracts here so the rest of the guys know what I'm talking about.

Since this is the second time you've found this gunk on your injectors' pintle caps ... it must also still be in your fuel delivery system.

1. I'd send one injector to a professional cleaning outfit and find out what he says. If it's restorable, send the other five.
2. Then I would disassemble, clean or replace everything from the tank to the injectors.
3. I would even consider placing a 2nd filter in the fuel line, this one between the tank and the fuel pump.

 

Good morning,
The new noid pn is Bosch PFI Noid-Lite 7188
I took them (injectors) to work and used a warm sovent rinse tank to clean mostly the outside and each end, then I blew them dry with pure O2 not air. When I got home I used carb & injector spray to clean the fuel rail pipe & pressure regulator. The fuel coming out now is pretty clean compared to when I drained the tank & lines. If the injectors got f**ked up it could of been from the days on end I tried to start before removing all the fuel. I will try to find somewhere to profesionally clean them in town. I checked online for new ones thinking if I had one known good one I'd see if it sprayed. Other than that I don't really know how to clean them. I have a charity event to plus other stuff today, so I don't think I will get much time.
Cheers

 

Thanks for "kind of" answering my last two questions, but you failed to answer the first which I feel was the most important.

I sent the directions to you in an email, posted them above and am including them again, as follows.

o

 

"kind of" and "failed" ? I guess that's why I can't get my car started.

 

Sorry for the late reply, but the ol' gal is running again. Turns out after four months and the equivalent of the gross national debt spent in parts it was the injectors. I bought six new and popped them in and purred like a kitten, of course a kitten that leaks oil, and has countless electrical oddities, but a Jaguar is a Jaguar.
Now I have to figure out how to recharge an r-12 A/C unit in a state that outlawed r-12 ten years ago. That's my new project

 

Rex:
Gave you a thanks today, and certainly a hat tip and round of applause, for sticking with it and hanging in there with this car. It's been a long journey for you, and you persevered when others would long ago have left it behind for scrap. Thank you for keeping the faith and for keeping what is, now, a little bit of undervalued history on the road. Long may she run!
Cheers,
Scott
PS- I understand the old AC system can be converted to the newer, but I don't have any personal experience.

 

hi there im having some trouble with my cat too, u can see my thread (new to jag) dont mean to stel ur thread but just wondering is there a way to figure out if u have one bad injector or u need to replace all at once? where did u get parts from? i been using the local autozone thanks and congratulation on getting ur car running!!! im getting to the point of selling mine lol

 

Hi, I read your thread and yes I had very similar problems and although because it took me four months to get my car running I shouldn’t be giving advice I will.
First; one even two bad injectors won't prevent your car from starting, oh it will idle like sh*t, but start. You may have another problem, but it's simple 40 to 47 psi at the fuel rail checked with a gauge will tell you if the relays under the dash & the fuel pump etc are working. Or crack loose the fitting on the supply line & crank the engine, you should spray fuel all over yourself, your dad, the car and driveway and that's good, now you know the fuel is there.
Only a few things will stop the car from not energizing (releasing fuel) your injectors, like the ECU, relays, faulty wiring, CPS, coolant valve and a couple other oddities. If you want you can carefully remove your entire fuel rail, while completely attached to the pressure valve, input hose, & electrical connections and crank the engine. Does fuel dribble out all injectors or spray or nothing? At first I had nothing at all come out and each time I cleaned them myself I would get a different amount pissing out, & I was told internal rust kills those injectors so I bought 6 rebuilt ones from Partsgeek.com, I also got a lot of parts from Jagbits.com & motorcarsltd.com plus I own half the local Monument auto parts in town. I sent my ECU to Solo Automotive in Florida and for $100 the bench tested it and it was fine, all the advice you already got was good and after changing your fuel pump & filter everything else is easy! Except the alternator, I changed mine a year or so ago and getting under the car and swapping it out, getting the belt back on in the driveway during our rainy season was not fun. Good luck!

 

Dam proud of you. That was an amazing journey. Great deal of persistence.

 

I always re-vist this thread for some reason. I have done it again today. Although mine is a 90, its my turn. RC, throughout your ordeal, I did find myself laughing at some of your off the cuff comments describing things. I do the same thing. My car was running beautifully, you didn't know it was running at a stop. I shut it off on Aug 30th and she hasn't started since. I haven't bought brand new parts, but have been taking them off other vehicles at the junk yard and using a meter and power source to be sure they work. Today it is dancing on my last nerve. 3 Different CPS's, 3 Different coils, new pump, filter, regulator and amplifier. I haven't spark! I have voltage to the ignition amp, I have 18+ volts to the positive and negative wires that attach to the coil. Thats where it stops, I have no spark from the output of the center of the coil. I have great resistance from the pos terminal and center of coil..7.8, The reading on all 3 coils on the meter when OHMing them out, across the pos and neg terminal is 000. I am stuck. I have read all trick has taken the time to post, but until I get spark out of the coil, I can't do anything. Anyone want to throw a horseshoe here?

 

Pain, I feel your pain and it’s bad. Quick questions in different categories;
Stupid category: How did you determine you have no spark, you may have said that in another thread, but I didn't find it.
More intelligent category: You said you replaced the amplifier correct? With one you know is good? There is no test for amplifier out voltage only in so you’ve got that good.
The really odd thing here is that most all the safety devices on these cars (things that prevent car from starting) kill voltage before the coil so you would read zero zip zilch nada not 18+ volts, which is the last question.
18+ volts is a lot, is this read whilst cranking? All the start/electrical testing I did was in static mode.
Give me some time to read through all the associated threads on this, but I fret I will be no help to you.

 

Sometimes RC, is just the fact that your reading the post and throwing whatever you want. Yes I took these parts from a vehicle that was running. Yes I have power to the amp, there is power to the coil and a pulsating light on the neg terminal while cranking the engine. Now I'm back to my battery not having that super juice it had prior to this issue. So I am charging it (again). The 18 at the positive term was prior to cranking.

 

I am just so-o-o-o-o-o glad I have bought an '88 Jag now.

If it's not rocket science, it's about as close as you can get.

Heaven help me if I have similar problems, as I just know that I wouldn't have the same patience as most of the contributors here.

Anyone want to buy a (so far, so good) '88 Sovereign V12..?

Cheers,

Rick
OZ.

 

rcarpender, DON'T BURN YOUR CAT!!!!! These car are VERY sensitive and do require a delicate touch, but trust me, when it's done it will be worth all of the agony you are currently going through.

I am 89JagMan and I have been going through the EXACT same thing. Only difference, I have been going through it for over a year now!! I have done everything you mentioned as well as most if not all of the suggestions made to you in this fourm. No luck yet.

I, however, am not giving up! This has now become personal!! My jag only has 112,000 on it and I am determined to put at least another 200,000 on it.

Now to the point of this post. Recently, I was talking to a couple of jag specialists and was informed that the problem could be one of two things.
Check either your Starter Relay Switch (could not be making a good conection or it could be your ignition itself). I have been informed that the starter in that model jag has a Lucas ignition in it and that it was not a very good one. I have been trying to find out if there is an aftermarket ignition that is compatible with this model that can replace it but haven't gotten an answer as of this post. If anyone here has that answer, it would br greatly appreciated.

Have faith rcarpender, you are in the right place to get an answer to your problem. Patience is the key. After all, we're Jag Men!!!( And women!!!)