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Problem... Cat would not start. Towed to my mechanic, fuel pump is done. However, he said the housing for the pump is damaged because the pump overheated causing the housing to be damaged beyond repair. He's saying the housing is no where to be found stores or online. Any input? I do not have the time or tools to do this myself, and I was fine with paying him $450 for the pump and install. But I don't have any idea about this housing. Any help from experience is appreciated.
Hi Jagbro, I am skeptical about overheating that severe INSIDE the fuel tank. Im wondering if you could get to see the housing. Maybe they broke it trying to take it apart. Our sponsors have good line drawings of the parts, maybe you could compare there. Ill go do some research and report back later....
Hope this helps some, the pump mounts inside a swirl housing so it's always submerged. The canister part is held together by wedge in a hole method. The whole thing sits on a rubber mount in the tank and mounts to the top plate visible outside the tank.
Hi Jagbro, I am skeptical about overheating that severe INSIDE the fuel tank. Im wondering if you could get to see the housing. Maybe they broke it trying to take it apart. Our sponsors have good line drawings of the parts, maybe you could compare there. Ill go do some research and report back later....
...... thanks Jerry I’m actually out of town, this happened whilst my wife needed to drive it. I’ll be back home tomorrow. Yea, I think I’ll drop by his shop and look at this housing and take a picture, unless he solves the issue today. Thanks for the heads up and anything else you discover about this.
It's 2 of the 3 parts shown in your original pic. But I've include pictures of my actual parts. It's the brown canister AND the donut shaped part where hoses and wires are distributed. So how much are we talking about in $$? And the real culprit is the electronic plug-in connecter to the round unit (back of round unit) that is worn and melted. Can this electric connector be sold BY ITSELF?
If not, give me the cost on the 2 pieces (cylindrical canister and round unit) My address is:
630 W Queen St unit 9
Inglewood CA 90301
(310) 779-0843
It's 2 of the 3 parts shown in your original pic. But I've include pictures of my actual parts. It's the brown canister AND the donut shaped part where hoses and wires are distributed. So how much are we talking about in $$? And the real culprit is the electronic plug-in connecter to the round unit (back of round unit) that is worn and melted. Can this electric connector be sold BY ITSELF?
If not, give me the cost on the 2 pieces (cylindrical canister and round unit) My address is:
630 W Queen St unit 9
Inglewood CA 90301
(310) 779-0843
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Old 10-04-2019, 02:52 PM rgreuling
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Default Fuel Pump Replace2006 Jaguar XJ8L X350 . Replacing fuel pump. Have removed top plastic locking ring and removed both electrical plug and fuel hose. The top plastic cap can be moved out of the way slightly to expose the metal fuel pump and its surrounding plastic housing. This is what the pump mounts into. I’ve tried to gently pull upward on the electric pump to dislodge it. It stays firm. Before going any further, and risk damaging something, I’d appreciate some feedback. Has anyone removed the entire pump assembly and replaced the fuel pump electric motor? Any directions or advice for removal?
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DefaultThe fuel pump housing is connected to the sending unit via two hoses. You need to access the sending unit on the rear driver side seat. Disconnect the two hoses. You do not need special tool and just use your finger pressure to release he clips from the two hoses that connected on the sending unit side. Once the two hoses disconnected, you now can remove the main fuel housing from fuel tank.
I bought a used fuel pump and housing on Ebay for $100.00 and it was a mistake. It did not last for couple days. After some research, I was able to replaced the internal fuel pump and kept the fuel housing and filter. There are only couple hex screws to be remove to access the internal fuel pump. Just remember the fuel pump orientation inside the housing before removal.
The link below is for a quality fuel pump that will work for cheap. I used the original male wire harness from the fuel housing. However, you will need to use a file to shave the original male harness lightly and it will fit and lock in. I skipped a few steps but replaced the fuel pump was super easy.
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Old 10-05-2019, 09:00 AM Wingrider
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Thumbs upGreat find, another inexpensive repair to keep them on the road, nice work.
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Old 10-05-2019, 05:43 PM rgreuling
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DefaultThank you Annamiata. The sending unit is connected to the fuel pump as a single unit. Both are located behind the passenger seat, under the rear seat. The plastic cover on the driver’s side has no protrusions. No electrical and no plumbing. Although, inside the tank I can see a fuel line coming off the fuel pump that extends toward the driver’s side of the car. I’ll remove that line. It appears that the float assembly must be removed with the pump as an entire unit. I’ve ordered a used pump on eBay to use as a visual aid, and spare parts if I were to break anything. I also have a new Delco fuel pump and filter ready to install.
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Old 10-05-2019, 08:19 PM rgreuling
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DefaultThis is on. 2006 Jaguar XJ8L (X350). Removed the fuel pump assembly.
First lowered the level of fuel in the tank with a transfer pump. Disconnected the large diameter gray fuel line on the outside of the fuel tank that connects into the top of the fuel pump (top white cover). There is a molded arrow on the white top lid of the fuel pump - it faces the rear of the vehicle. I removed the plastic screw on/off locking ring. Squeeze the two parts of the fitting together. The hose/fitting can be twisted off. There is a similar large gray hose under the top cover that connects into the lower canister - with lifting pressure the hose will come off. Inside the fuel tank. The hose connection is a barbed 90 degree press fit. It’s designed to swivel. Grab the 90 degree fitting and rorate the 90 degree fitting counter clockwise while pushing the side of the fitting that extends below the white top plate with a screwdriver. The lower part is purposely split to allow removal - use a flashlight and you’ll see the split. With pulling “up” on the fitting, it can then be easily pulled out. I cut the the plastic tiewraps that held the smaller “ribbed” fuel lines together under the white top assembly. This allowed easier access as I could pull the top lid out of the way. Firmly grab ahold of the black lower body of the fuel pump assembly and twist it counter-clockwise. About 1/8 turn will release the pump assembly. The complete fuel pump assembly, with the fuel-level
float and filter screen can then be carefully lifted out of the fuel tank. Note the location of fuel tank sending unit and float to the rear of the vehicle. It extends towards the driver-side of the vehicle. Note the location of the two motor electrical connections face the front of the vehicle. Tomorrow I’ll replace the fuel pump motor and provide some photos.
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Old 04-24-2020, 02:46 PM Wingrider
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DefaultWell how did it go, did it fit???
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Old 04-24-2020, 03:49 PM rgreuling
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Default XJ 350 Fuel Pump Assembly Motor Replacement This photo is of the OEM filter. Quite dirty. It does not fit the replacement pump. The white plastic fitting is the OEM fuel inlet adapter that is press-fit to the bottom of the original pump. This must be removed and discarded.
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Originally Posted by WingriderView Post
Well how did it go, did it fit???
The Delco replacement fuel pump fit quite well. Didn't need any shims or taping to make it fit. Slipped right in. Photo is of it ready to re-assemble into the black outer bucket. Cut the wires on the plug and re-soldered them to the connector on the bottom of the white plastic top lid. Covered with shrink wrap. I heated the orange/yellow fuel lines in boiling hot water to remove them. They regain their pliability and you can slide them back onto the nipples. The first photo below is viewing the fuel pump assembly from the rear of the vehicle looking forward. The float assembly is removable and is mounted mounted on the rear side of the pump assembly. I found it easier to remove the entire assembly, assembled. Fuel Pump after disassembly and the installation of new pump. Notice that the blue plastic back-flow valve has been removed. On my vehicle, I found this is a mistake to not have this valve installed. Starts well and runs well. But after sitting for a couple of hours, my vehicle had difficulty starting. Put valve back in and solved the problem. Keep the blue valve in the feed line. Notice which way it points! This is the bottom of the pump, without the surrounding black bucket installed. The original filter was removed and didn't fit the new aftermarket pump. The new pump came with this new filter. The filter is installed side-to-side parallel with the length of the rear seat. You can see the flat portion of the top cover facing me. This assembly would now be turned upside down and slides down into the bucket.
BTW, Many years ago the outlet on my canister was clogged up and I needed to get the car back on the road quickly so I eliminated the canister and used a stainless steel hose clamp to hold a replacement fuel pump (part number E2042) onto one of the feet that sticks up from the bottom of the tank that normally holds the rubber feet of the canister. I used a long piece of submersible fuel hose (Gates part # 27093) to go from the outlet on the top of the pump to the pipe leading to the outlet from the tank. The electrical lead from the sealing "plug" on the top of the tank plugged directly into the fuel pump.I also put a strainer on the bottom of the fuel pump. I did all of this several years ago and until recently it worked fine for over ten years in this configuration.
Last edited by JensenHealey; 10-22-2023 at 07:06 PM.
11-18-2020, 05:33 PM
91' Sovereign 4.0 Fuel Pump Housing
Fuel Pump Parts
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